Madison: Tomato Sauces: About

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Tomato Sauces: About

 

Recipe By : Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone, Deborah Madison, page 60

Serving Size : 1 Preparation Time :0:00

Categories : Info/Tips Vegetables

 

Amount Measure Ingredient -- Preparation Method

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***** NONE *****

 

Their acidity, bright color, ease of preparation, and affinity for so many

dishes account for the popularity of tomato sauces. They're often just the

thing to provide a needed punch of flavor or color to set off a

dish. Tomato sauces are basically of two kinds-briefly cooked to preserve

the fresh, bright flavor of the tomato, or long- simmered with many

ingredients. Whether you're making a simple basic sauce or a chunky one

with olives, capers, and mushrooms, fresh or canned tomatoes can be used.

 

USING CANNED TOMATOES: Since truly flavorful tomatoes enjoy such a short

season, canned tomatoes are usually the better choice for sauces. Several

brands are quite good, and the best ones aren't necessarily Italian or

expensive. I like canned organic tomatoes by Eden Foods and Muir Glen, but

I also use the boxed Italian Pomi tomatoes. When choosing canned tomatoes,

read the label to see what else, if anything, is with them. Cayenne,

onions, and peppers may add a dimension to your sauce that you don't really

want. You can choose from whole canned tomatoes, crushed tomatoes in

puree, and diced tomatoes in water. If you rely on canned tomatoes, try

several brands side by side to see which one you prefer and how much they

differ.

 

USING FRESH TOMATOES: The delight of a sauce made with fresh tomatoes is

its summery essence, but there's no point in using fresh fruits if they

aren't perfect to start with-ripe and perfumed. The ideal tomato for sauce

is one with little juice, which allows the watery juices to evaporate

rapidly. Thick-fleshed not-very-juicy Romas, San Marzanos, and other

plum-shaped varieties are sauce tomatoes. You certainly can use juicier

varieties, but they will require more time to cook down. Longer cooking

benefits tomatoes that are very tart or mixtures of many ingredients whose

flavors need time to marry.

 

USING A FOOD MILL: A food mill is a great timesaver for making tomato

sauces. Just wash, chop, and cook the tomatoes - the skins and seeds will

be removed quickly by this simple mechanical device. If you want a chunky

sauce, you'll have to peel, seed, and chop the tomatoes first since the

food mill will effectively puree them.

 

CORRECTING FOR LACKLUSTER FLAVOR: If your sauce seems a little weak, you

can strengthen it by adding a tablespoon or two of tomato paste or puree.

 

ACIDITY: Since all tomatoes have some acidity, cook them in a pot that

won't react, such as enamel-lined cast iron, glass, or stainless

steel. Aluminum does nothing for their taste. Excessive acidity or

tartness can be corrected with the addition of a little sugar. Yellow

tomatoes can be used for sauce, but since they tend to be very low in acid

and are usually quite juicy, they don't always provide the desired tartness

and need more time on the stove to thicken. You may want to add a little

vinegar or lemon at the end.

 

 

 

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