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What's in your wine?

Proposal to require labels to ID presence of allergens

such as eggs, fish, milk, wheat used in winemaking

alarms industry

By KEVIN McCALLUM

THE PRESS DEMOCRAT

Jan 14, 2007

 

http://www1.pressdemocrat.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20070114/NEWS/701140375/1036/BUSINESS01 & template=printart

http://www1.pressdemocrat.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20070114/NEWS/701140375/1036/BUSINESS01#more

 

Most folks know white wine goes well with fish.

Far fewer are aware that wine is often made with fish.

And milk.

And eggs.

 

Confused?

 

That's exactly what the wine industry says will happen

if the government requires wine labels to state when

these and other potential allergens are used in the

winemaking process.

 

" If people read, 'This wine contains milk, fish and

eggs,' they are not going to know what hit them, " said

Wendell Lee, legal counsel for the Wine Institute, the

San Francisco-based trade group that opposes the new

rules.

 

But that's exactly what the federal government, which

is responsible for approving the labels on alcoholic

beverages, is proposing.

 

It has drafted new rules that require wine labels to

state if the wines are made with one of eight major

food allergens: milk, eggs, fish, crustacean

shellfish, tree nuts, peanuts, wheat and soybeans.

 

What's that got to do with the fermented grape juice?

 

Everything. Or nothing. It depends on whom you ask.

 

Winemakers often use fining agents to clarify wine

before it is bottled. Byproducts of at least three of

the eight allergens on the government's list are

commonly used in making wine.

 

They include egg whites; a milk protein called casein

and isinglass, a substance derived from the inner

membrane of the air bladders of sturgeon.

 

That's right - fish guts.

 

No wonder winemakers aren't excited about printing

this fact on their labels.

 

But their opposition goes beyond just being worried

about grossing out consumers. They're worried people

will be confused and misled by the warnings.

 

To say the wines " contain " those products is wrong

because fining agents are filtered out before

bottling, according to the Wine Institute and other

opponents of the proposed rules.

 

Fining agents work by bonding with whatever particles

the winemaker wants removed, such as yeast, bacteria

and excess tannins. This creates a larger molecule

that sinks to the bottom of the barrel or tank and

leaves the wine above it clearer.

 

" It's kind of like sweeping the wine, " said Bill

Nelson, president of the wine lobby Wine America.

 

" You're putting in something that holds onto those

particles in suspension. "

 

Since the fining agents are filtered out after they do

their job but before bottling, it would be misleading

to tell consumers the wines " contain " those

substances, Nelson said.

 

But the government is placing the burden of proof on

the wine producers - and brewers and distillers - to

demonstrate their products don't contain allergens,

Lee said.

 

That's proving to be a tall order.

 

While there are proven tests for peanuts, " there are

no such methods available for testing the presence of

eggs, milk, wheat or fish in wine, " according to the

Wine Institute's written comments.

 

Wheat-based glues are sometimes used to seal wine

barrels, raising the issue of whether the wine comes

into contact with a wheat product, Lee said.

 

Anecdotally, the wine industry says there is no

evidence these potential allergens make it into the

final product. If they did, people would have been

having bad reactions to wine for years.

 

" In 400 years there's not been a single documented

case of someone getting a fish allergy (reaction) from

wine, " said Russell Robbins, manager of the Napa-based

U.S. operations of French wine supply company Laffort

Oenologie, which sells most of the common fining

agents used in winemaking.

 

The Wine Institute made a similar argument in its

comments.

 

" Fining agents such as eggs and milk have been used in

wine production for millennia with few, if any,

substantiated complaints from allergy sufferers, " it

claimed.

 

Without any evidence of a problem, many winemakers

question why they should go through the expense and

hassle of changing their labels. Wine America

estimated it could cost wineries $2,000 to $5,000 per

label to redesign their labels.

 

" I think it's a solution in search of a problem, " said

Pete Downs, vice president of governmental affairs for

Santa Rosa's Kendall-Jackson Wine Estates. " I kind of

feel like its Shakespearean in nature. It's much ado

about nothing. "

 

Others disagree.

 

The latest debate about allergen labeling has been

brewing since 2004, when a Harvard University

scientist, Christine Rogers, petitioned the government

to add an allergen warning to alcoholic beverages.

 

Rogers claimed she was allergic to eggs and had

noticed her own allergic reactions when she drank

wine.

 

Lawmakers saw sufficient reason to be concerned, as

well.

 

When they passed the Food Allergen Labeling and

Consumer Protection Act later in 2004, lawmakers cited

studies that showed food allergies affect 2 percent to

5 percent of children, send 30,000 people to emergency

rooms every year, and kill 150 people annually.

 

Ninety percent of food allergies are from the eight

major groups cited in the law, lawmakers found.

 

Proponents of allergen warnings say the information is

critical to helping them stay healthy.

 

Fremont resident Catharine Alvarez supports the new

rules for wine because she knows just how hard it can

be to protect her children from foods they are

allergic to. Alvarez's 4-year-old son is allergic to

eggs, while her 7-year-old daughter is allergic to

peanuts, she said.

 

While she's not worried about their drinking wine now,

they will someday, and she uses beer and wine in

cooking today, she said. She thinks wine companies and

other producers have an obligation to be transparent

about how wine is made and let consumers make up their

own minds.

 

Those who don't care about allergens won't be scared

off by a small warning on the back label, she

predicted. And those who do care will appreciate the

additional information and feel more confident in

their purchases, she said.

 

" There are a lot of people I know who are willing to

pay extra for products that they know to be safe, "

said Alvarez, one of 45 people, companies and trade

groups who submitted comments to the Alcohol and

Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau, known as the TTB.

 

The deadline for comments, which was extended at the

request of the wine industry, passed in December.

 

Federal officials hope to publish a final rule by the

end of 2007, TTB spokesman Art Resnick said.

 

Several groups are asking the TTB to hold off on

implementing the proposed rule until the science of

testing for allergens improves. Others urge patience

and a global approach that allows consistency across

all wine-producing nations.

 

" A scenario where the exact same product is being

labeled as containing allergens in one country, but

not another country, serves no interests, " stated one

letter signed by eight alcohol groups in the United

States and Canada.

 

For an industry that touts the health benefits of its

products, yet another health warning on wine concerns

many producers.

 

Their labels already carry two prominent warnings.

The phrase " this product contains sulfites " has been

required on most wine labels since 1986. The naturally

occurring compound is added to wine to help it age,

but some people are allergic to it and claim it gives

them headaches.

 

In 1988, a surgeon general's warning was added to

alcoholic beverages, citing the risk of birth defects,

impairment of people's ability to drive, and the

catch-all " and may cause health problems. "

 

Yet another warning worries some winemakers.

 

Fining agents, while used far less today than 15 years

ago, are still an important part of the winemaking

process, said Nick Goldschmidt, executive winemaker of

Beam Wine Estates, which owns some of the best-known

Sonoma County wine brands, including Geyser Peak, Clos

du Bois and Buena Vista Carneros.

 

" We like to be able to have those tools available to

us if we need them, " Goldschmidt said.

 

If it comes down to a choice of using a fining agent

that would trigger a warning or finding another

technique, Goldschmidt said it's too soon to say what

he would do.

 

" I actually think it's a healthy conversation for the

industry to have, " he said.

 

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