SAVORY WAY: Spring Vegetable Stew

[Guest guest]

* Exported from MasterCook *

 

Spring Vegetable Stew

 

Recipe By : The Savory Way by Deborah Madison, page 116

Serving Size : 4 Preparation Time :0:00

Categories : Beans And Legumes Soups And Stews

Vegetables Madison: Savory Way

 

Amount Measure Ingredient -- Preparation Method

-------- ------------ --------------------------------

***THE VEGETABLES***

2 large leeks -- white parts only

sliced into rounds about 1/3 inch thick

2 large artichokes

2 lemons -- juice of

3/4 pound fava beans -- shelled

if available

1 pound thick asparagus

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 tablespoon virgin olive oil

4 small garlic cloves -- unpeeled, up to 5

salt

1 1/2 cups water

6 small turnips

peeled and halved

6 small carrots

peeled and cut in half lengthwise

1 pound fresh peas -- shelled

OR 1 cup frozen peas

lemon juice or Champagne vinegar

***THE HERB BUTTER***

1/4 cup unsalted butter -- at room temperature

1/2 cup chopped mixed fresh herbs -- see note

1 shallot -- finely diced

1/2 teaspoon grated lemon zest

1 pinch salt

 

Makes 4 servings.

 

Note: such as chervil, tarragon or parsley, basil or marjoram or savory

 

This little stew of spring vegetables is cooked at a leisurely pace, taking

enough time for the different flavors to merge but not so long that they

become murky. I've made this many times, trying to find what works-what

member of the onion family to begin with, which vegetables to use, what

kind of butter to finish with. What I like best is rather thickly sliced

leeks stewed with the artichokes. Their flavor is mild and sweet, and even

after cooking they still hold their shape. If lots of other things are

happening in the kitchen, I briefly blanch the asparagus and other hard

vegetables, such as new turnips and carrots, and add them together during

the last five minutes of cooking. Otherwise I try to time how long they

will take, without blanching, and add them at the appropriate moment.

 

To finish, I often add a few spoonfuls of olive oil or butter and a handful

of fresh herbs, or I make a little herb butter with the same ingredients,

adding shallot and lemon zest. I have also served this on puff pastry with

a beurre blanc, making a much fancier-and richer-dish.

 

No matter how many times I make a spring stew, it's never the same

twice. Ingredients change their qualities change, and each time you have

to feel your way as you go, taking everything into account.

 

Thoroughly wash the leeks. Trim the artichokes: break off the tough outer

leaves and slice off the inner cone of remaining leaves. Trim the outside,

slice the hearts into sixths or eighths, and remove the choke from each

piece. As you work, keep the pieces in a bowl of water acidulated with the

juice of 1 lemon.

 

Bring a large pot of water to a boil, add the fava beans, and cook for

about a minute; then scoop them out and put them in a bowl of cold water,

reserving the cooking water. Slip each bean out of its skin and set aside.

 

Cut the top 3 inches off the asparagus. Set the stalks aside for another

use. If the tips are very thick, slice them in half lengthwise. Warm the

butter and olive oil in a wide skillet. Add the leeks, artichokes, and

garlic, then salt lightly. Toss everything immediately to coat with the

oil and squeeze the juice of the second lemon over all. Cook gently for

several minutes, without frying; then add the water. Simmer, partially

covered, for about 15 minutes or until the artichokes are tender but still

a little firm. Make sure there is some liquid. If the liquid has boiled

away, add more water as needed, in small increments, and lower the heat.

 

Return the water used for the fava beans to a boil and blanch the turnips

for 2 minutes and the carrots and asparagus for 1. Add these to the

artichokes along with the fava beans and the fresh peas. Remove the lid

and continue to cook gently until the vegetables are tender and the liquid

has reduced to a syrup. If you're using frozen peas, add them during the

last 2 minutes or so. Taste for salt.

 

While the vegetables are cooking, combine the herb butter ingredients

below. Put half the butter in the pan and gently stir it into the

vegetables. Taste, and if you want more butter, add the rest. Taste

again, and if you feel a little " some- thing " is needed, add a splash of

lemon juice or Champagne vinegar to pick up the flavors. Serve the stew in

warm soup plates with grilled bread or croutons and thin shavings of a good

dry cheese, such as Parmigiano-Reggiano, a dry Monterey Jack, or aged goat

cheese.

 

In his book Simple French Food, Richard Olney has an inspired section on

vegetable stews. If this recipe appeals to you, by all means read what he

has to say. One of the things he says, which makes perfect sense, is to

limit yourself to 5 or so vegetables so that the dish stays clear and

" readable. " It is sometimes tempting to use more, because so many spring

vegetables would be perfect. The only recourse is to make stews often and

vary the ingredients. He also suggests using leafy greens, such as sorrel

and tender new chard leaves, all of which are excellent.

 

 

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -