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>

> Editor's Note: In 2005, Starbucks had $6.4

> billion dollars in sales

> yet coffee is selling today for about 40% of

> what it was 10 years

> ago and producers are having a hard time of it.

> Fair trade

> certification cuts out middlemen and pays higher

> prices per pound

> than non-fair trade exchange, but this is still

> a relatively small

> amount. At least two other factors help to

> explain the poor

> situation of coffee producers. One is over

> supply - a state of

> affairs to which the World Bank and other major

> development

> institutions have contributed. They have done so

> by advising

> previously non-coffee producing countries to

> grow the product for

> export earnings. Second, tariffs and details in

> trade agreements

> make it difficult for producing countries

> themselves to process and

> roast beans for export. That is, to engage in

> value-added activities.

>

>

> The article below on fair trade coffee in

> Ethiopia is followed by

> summaries and links to the websites of two new

> documentaries on the

> subject.

>

>

>

>

http://www.theglobeandmail.com/servlet/story/LAC.20060519.RCOFFEE19/TPStory/?que\

ry=nolen#

>

>

> WHERE COFFEE FUELS A NATION

>

>

> In Ethiopia, fair trade for bean farmers is

> slowly raising incomes

> in one of the world's poorest countries,

> STEPHANIE NOLEN writes

>

> STEPHANIE NOLEN

>

> ADDIS ABABA -- Perhaps you're reading this over a

> cup of coffee. Maybe a

> Starbucks coffee. Maybe you even paid extra for

> Shirkina beans, a

> fair-trade variety that sells for the

> conscience-soothing premium price

> of $10 (U.S.) a pound in North America.

>

> The employees of Ethiopia's largest coffee

> processing factory and the

> small family farmers -- all 86,762 of them -- who

> grew the Shirkina

> beans would like to thank you.

>

> Here in one of the poorest countries in the world,

> coffee is responsible

> for a quarter of the gross national product, and 55

> per cent of all

> export revenue. More than a third of the 78 million

> people in Ethiopia

> earn their livelihood from some phase of coffee

> production.

>

> And in recent years, the lustre of organic

> certification and fair-trade

> agreements -- long more common in coffee-producing

> nations in Latin

> America -- have made it to Ethiopia, offering the

> promise of additional

> earnings for a commodity priced at just 40 per cent

> of what it was a

> decade ago. Two weeks ago, for example, the

> Rainforest Alliance

> certified 678 small coffee farms; their beans can be

> sold at a premium

> price because their production is being done in a

> way that conserves

> forest ecosystems and puts profits into schools and

> clinics.

>

> But Ethiopia's coffee industry provides a blunt

> reminder that while fair

> trade and conservation products may make Western

> consumers feel better,

> all things are relative.

>

> The women who sort the Shirkina beans, for example,

> earn 7.5 birr for

> each nine-hour day in the dim, clamouring factory --

> that's 96 cents

> (Canadian). The men who load the sacks of hulled

> beans on to trucks for

> export to North America earn $2. And while the

> bean-picking ladies are

> glad to report that their wages are up from 5 birr a

> day two years ago,

> and they're very glad to have a job, they would like

> you to know it's

> really not very much money. " I'd do anything else, "

> said one sorter, a

> high-school graduate in her 20s. " If there was

> anything else. "

>

> The farmers, meanwhile, are earning a premium for

> their fair-trade green

> beans -- $1.60 (U.S.) a pound for green beans,

> compared with 60 cents a

> pound if they were selling without the fair-trade

> agreement.

>

> " The fair-trade market is making a difference for

> coffee communities:

> Comparatively the fair-trade buyers are paying a

> better price,

> especially when the market is down -- fair trade

> means a minimum

> guaranteed price that will at least cover your cost

> of production, " said

> Asnake Bekele, general manager of the Sidamo Coffee

> Farmers Cooperative

> Union.

>

> The co-operative grows beans for Starbucks'

> fair-trade products. " But we

> don't deserve this price: Fair trade is better than

> conventional but I

> can't say fair trade is fair. "

>

> Coming out of years of socialist dictatorship in the

> late 1990s,

> Ethiopia relaxed the rules governing coffee

> production, and allowed

> farmers to organize into co-operatives and make

> their own deals for

> exports, instead of selling all production to the

> state. Co-ops such as

> Sidamo, in turn, have allowed farmers to bypass the

> export middlemen and

> seek out their own international markets, especially

> those willing to

> pay the fair-trade premium.

>

> And they're feeling the effect: " It contributes --

> they improve their

> flow of income, " Mr. Bekele said. School enrolment

> is up among children

> of the fair-trade coffee growers; they spend the

> extra money on food and

> clothes.

>

> Nevertheless, a typical Ethiopian coffee farmer

> still receives less than

> 1 per cent of what Canadian consumers pay for their

> lattes. (The farmers

> sell red cherries for 1 birr, or 11 cents per kg, it

> takes six kg of

> cherries to make one kg of green beans, 1.2 kg of

> green beans to make 1

> kg of roasted beans, and each kilo of roasted beans

> makes 60 cups, sold

> for an average of $3 each, or $180.) And unlike the

> other main African

> producers (Ivory Coast, Uganda and Kenya), the vast

> majority of

> Ethiopian coffee is grown by small farmers.

>

> " They are selling below the level of production

> costs because they don't

> count family labour, " Mr. Bekele explained. Farmers'

> children do much of

> the picking; there is no line item in the accounts

> for their wages.

>

> Mr. Bekele figures that only a price at $2 a pound

> of beans or above

> would cover real production costs, and maybe allow a

> little profit. But

> fair-trade prices are moving the other way. Two

> years ago, the Fairtrade

> Labelling Organization paid $1.26 a pound when the

> conventional market

> was offering 60 cents a pound -- but last year when

> the market hit $1.30

> a pound, fair-trade buyers still insisted on $1.26,

> he said, claiming:

> " We are you friend in bad times and you have to do

> us a favour. "

>

> Coffee growers here are earning 10 cents a pound

> above the conventional

> price for organic beans. In truth, most Ethiopian

> coffee production is

> organic -- the family farmers who grow most of the

> beans can't afford

> agrochemicals -- but the process of getting

> certified costs about $2,600

> and is beyond the reach of small producers.

>

> Ethiopia has a storied love affair with coffee --

> this is the country

> where the tree was first domesticated, and a third

> of the production is

> consumed domestically, making this the biggest

> coffee-drinking nation in

> Africa. But the government realizes that the

> country's dependence on the

> bean is a problem, and is pushing diversification

> into other

> agricultural exports such as cut flowers and pulses.

> The government also

> wants to see more coffee processing done at home --

> in 2003, for

> example, Ethiopia exported 126,100 tons of beans,

> but just 115 tons of

> that was roasted and milled coffee.

>

> Yet grabbing more of the value-added agroprocessing

> industry is easier

> said than done: Foreign investment remains virtually

> non-existent here,

> in large part because the government maintains an

> impenetrable

> bureaucratic environment. There is not a single

> foreign-owned bank in

> Ethiopia, for example.

>

> " Things are better, " Mr. Bekele said, standing amid

> thousands and

> thousands of 62-kg burlap sacks of beans from his

> co-operative and the

> tangy smell of green coffee. " They're definitely

> better. But there is

> still a very long way to go. "

>

> *The historyCoffee* was first discovered growing in

> Ethiopia centuries

> ago, where legend has it a goat herder noticed his

> flock becoming frisky

> after eating berries on a bush. Arabian traders took

> the plants home in

> the 15th century, where they were first cultivated.

> By the 17th century,

> European coffee houses began to appear, thanks to

> travellers who had

> been to the east and tasted the black beverage known

> for keeping its

> drinkers alert all day and up at night.

>

> *The deal*

>

> The fair trade coffee movement took root in the past

> decade when prices

> plunged and farmers went broke. Farmers who organize

> into co-operatives

> are guaranteed $1.60 (U.S.) a pound for their beans,

> compared with 60

> cents. " Fair trade is better than conventional but I

> can't say fair

> trade is fair. " Asnake Bekele, general manager of

> the Sidamo Coffee

> Farmers Cooperative Union.

>

> *The beans*

>

> The variety named Shirkhina -- the Amharic word for

> partnership -- was

> created by Starbucks and the farmer who grow it. The

> cafe chain bills it

> as " bursting with lush black cherry notes and exotic

> layers of cocoa and

> spice. "

>

> *The path*

>

> Ethiopian farmers are paid about 66 cents (U.S.) for

> six kilograms of

> the coffee plant's ripe fruit, known as red

> cherries. This pile of

> cherries, when hulled, becomes one kilo of green

> coffee beans. After

> roasting, you're left with just under a kilo of

> beans. This is enough

> coffee to brew 60 cups. At $3 a cup, that's $180 a

> kilo. Bottoms up.

>

> *The commodity*

>

> COFFEE, MONTHLY CLOSE ON THE NEW YORK BOARD OF TRADE

>

> Yesterday's close: $1.02 U.S. a pound, up 0.75¢

>

> *Documentary 1*

>

> www.blackcoffeethemovie.com

>

> *BLACK COFFEE* (focus on Costa Rica)

> Like millions of other java-addicted consumers, you

> probably make a beeline for your local coffee shop

> every morning,

> and willingly shell out as much as $4 for a tall,

> non-fat latte. But what you pay for your morning fix

> equals a day's wages for the millions of workers

> who harvest the bean. Black Coffee provides an

> intriguing glimpse into the dark side of the brew,

> which is the second largest trading commodity in

> the world after oil, and like sugar, has been

> instrumental in promoting the slave trade.

>

> http://www.blackcoffeemovie.com/

>

> *Documentary** 2*

>

> http://www.blackgoldmovie.com/

>

> *Black Gold*

>

> " As Westerners indulge in designer lattes, starving

> coffee growers

> around the world suffer the bitter taste of

> injustice. In this

> eye-opening expose, Marc and Nick Francis take us on

> a whirlwind tour

> through the $55 billion-dollar coffee industry.

> Despite the growing

> profits of coffee multinationals, prices paid to

> farmers have dropped to

> an all-time low. Nowhere is this more apparent that

> in Ethiopia, the

> birthplace of coffee, where thousands of coffee

> growers have lost their

> livelihood and the starving citizenry subsists on

> foreign food aid. It

> is here that fair trade advocate Tadesse Meskela

> represents 70,000

> coffee farmers on the brink of bankruptcy.

> Circumventing the middlemen,

> he personally travels to Western capitals in the

> hope of brokering deals

> with socially conscientious coffee companies. His

> goal is to see

> Ethiopian growers share in the profits of this

> valuable trading

> commodity, second only to oil on the world market.

> The Francis brothers

> follow Meskela on his quest. Along the way, they

> meet coffee growers,

> pickers, auctioneers, sellers, tasters and baristas,

> serving up a lively

> and provocative brew of high stakes and equality. "

> (Karen Tisch, Hot Docs)

>

> --

>

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