More Media--Rabbit Meat Article and Recipes---Response And Letter To The Editor

[Guest guest]

Hi All,

Are you looking for ways to cook and serve delicious rabbit meat entrees? If so, you'll love the following article with accompanying rabbit meat recipes in the Santa Rosa Democrat.

House Rabbit Society National is organizing a letter writing campaign to the restaurants mentioned and I was only given a chance to write a 200 word letter to the editor. My letter to the editor follows the column. If you feel inclined, please write a polite letter to the editor expressing your views on rabbits as companions, not dinner. Letters can be sent to letters

Thanks,

Marcy SchaafChapter ManagerSaveABunnySan Francisco/ Marin House Rabbit Societywww.saveabunny.com415-388-2790

"Bay Area taking a liking to rabbit"

By MICHELE ANNA JORDANFOR THE PRESS DEMOCRATAmong the peculiarities of the American palate is a tendency to eschew anything that is too cute, which is to say that a lot of people will eat beef and pork - pigs are ugly, they say, and steer aren't very attractive, either - but not lamb. They'll eat turkey but get squeamish with chicken and don't want to hear about duck. Quail is out of the question.You definitely don't want to mention rabbit to these people.Indeed, for a long time you didn't want to mention rabbit as human fare anywhere in North America, or so it seemed. People were offended at the thought.That appears to be changing, at least in the Bay Area.K & L Bistro's rabbit paté has legions of fans, including an 11-year-old girl, a friend of mine, who has been enjoying it since the popular Sebastopol bistro opened, when she was not yet 8.At the Farmhouse Inn in Forestville, rabbit is one of the most popular entrees, so popular that the recipe is posted on the restaurant's Web site. Chef Steve Litk's "Rabbit, Rabbit, Rabbit" features rabbit three ways, with leg confit, bacon-wrapped loin and roasted rack. It's not the easiest or fastest way to prepare rabbit - you need to allow two days for the confit - but if you love to cook and want an adventure, it's perfect. For the recipe, visit www.farmhouseinn.com.According to a salesman at Santa Rosa Meat and Poultry, the popularity of rabbit has risen alongside a similar increase in the popularity of chicken. And although there are no longer any commercial producers of rabbit in Sonoma County, it is easy to get.If you don't see rabbit in your local market - Fiesta Market, which is near my home in Sebastopol, almost always has it displayed in their meat case - ask at the meat counter. For the best rabbit, be certain that it is fresh, not previously frozen.Rabbit, like chicken breast, has a tendency to become dry, so be sure not to over cook it.This recipe, adapted from "Chez Nous: Home Cooking from the South of France" by Lydie Marshall (HarperCollins, 1995), is a good first recipe for anyone who has never cooked rabbit. The aioli, served alongside, will cover up most mistakes, such as overcooking the rabbit. If you are not comfortable cutting up a whole rabbit, ask the butcher to either show you how or to do it for you.

Lydie Marshall's Fricassee de Lapin à l'AioliMakes 4 servings12½ to 3 pound rabbit, cut into 10 piecesFor the marinade- Kosher salt10 large garlic cloves2 fresh thyme sprigs1 fresh rosemary sprig- Black pepper in a mill1 tablespoon olive oil1 cup robust red wine, such as zinfandel or a Rhone-style redFor the rabbit½ cup olive oil2 cups diced tomatoes, either canned or frozen1 cup light chicken stock or broth, preferably homemade- Kosher salt- Black pepper in a millTo serve- Aioli (recipe follows)1½ pounds small new potatoes, steamedPut the rabbit into a large bowl and season it all over with salt. Add the garlic, herbs, several turns of black pepper, olive oil and wine. Gently turn the rabbit in the mixture. Cover and refrigerate for at least eight hours or as long as over night.Drain the rabbit, reserving the marinade.Pat the rabbit and garlic cloves with paper towels or a clean tea towel.Pour the olive oil into a large skillet set over high heat. When the oil is very hot, fry the rabbit, turning frequently, until it is golden brown all over. Do not crowd the pan and work in batches if necessary.Transfer the browned rabbit to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium and fry the garlic, turning frequently, until it is golden brown; do not let it burn. Transfer the garlic to the plate with the rabbit.Add the tomatoes and cook for 2 minutes.Pour the reserved marinade and the broth into the pan with the tomatoes and bring to a boil. Simmer for 5 minutes.Season the rabbit and garlic with salt and pepper and add to the pan, turning the rabbit to coat it in sauce. Reduce the heat to very low, cover the pan and simmer for 1 hour, turning the rabbit occasionally.While the rabbit simmers, steam the potatoes and make the aioli.To serve, transfer the rabbit and the garlic cloves to a warm serving dish. Add the potatoes to the dish.Strain and degrease the sauce and pour it over the rabbit and potatoes.Serve immediately, with aioli alongside.If you have a French-style olive oil, such as one made from picholine olives, use it in this recipe; it makes a suave sauce that is mild yet flavorful.

AioliMakes 1¼ cups6 large garlic cloves, peeled- Kosher salt2 egg yolks, at room temperature1 cup best-quality olive oil, preferably mild1 lemon- White pepper in a millPut the garlic and two or three generous pinches of salt into a large mortar and use the pestle to crush the garlic. Grind the garlic and salt until it forms a smooth paste. Mix in the eggs or egg yolks.Using a whisk, begin to add the olive oil, just a little at a time. As the emulsion forms and grows thick, you can add the oil a little more quickly, whisking all the while. When all of the oil has been added, taste the sauce. Add a squeeze of lemon juice, tilting the bowl so that it pools to one side. Add as much salt as you think the sauce will need to the lemon juice and agitate the bowl gently to dissolve it. Whisk the salty juice into the aioli. Taste and add more lemon juice and salt as needed.Let the mixture rest, covered, in the refrigerator for 30 minutes to 2 hours before using.There is no finer writer on the subject of French food than Patricia Wells. This recipe, from Wells' fourth edition of "The Food Lover's Guide to Paris" (Workman Publishing, 1999), presents one of the most traditional ways to serve rabbit. Yet another book, "Patricia Wells at Home in Provence" (Scribner, 1996) explores the subject of rabbit in finer detail, with several regional recipes that will delight the aficionado. The fresh pasta is my addition; I like the way its tenderness cushions the rabbit.

Patricia Wells's Lapin a la MoutardeMakes 4 servings1/3 cup peanut oil1 tablespoon unsalted butter1 fresh rabbit, 2½ to 3 pounds, cut into pieces- Kosher salt½ cup French whole grain mustard3 cups dry white wine1 cup creme fraiche- Black pepper in a mill2 to 3 tablespoons minced fresh parsley12 ounces fresh pappardelle or fettuccinePreheat the oven to 350 degrees.Pour the oil into a large oven-proof pot, such as a Dutch oven, set over medium high heat. Add the butte, and when it is melted, add the rabbit and quickly brown it on all sides. Transfer the browned rabbit to a plate and discard excess oil, leaving just a little in the pan.Season the rabbit with salt. Set aside 3 tablespoons of the mustard and brush the rest over the pieces of rabbit. Return the rabbit to the pot and bake, covered for 15 minutes.Pour the wine over the rabbit and bake for 25 minutes more.Remove the pot from the oven, reduce the heat to 200 degrees and use tongs to transfer the rabbit to a baking sheet. Cover the rabbit with foil, and when the oven is cooled, set the rabbit on the middle shelf to keep warm.Set the pot over high heat and simmer for 10 minutes, or until the cooking liquid is reduced by half. Whisk in the reserved mustard and the creme fraiche and season with several turns of black pepper. Simmer for 4 minutes, taste and correct the seasoning.Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and cook the fettucine until it is just tender. Drain the pasta, do not rinse and transfer it to a warm platter or shallow bowl.Arrange the rabbit on top of the pasta. Pour the sauce over it all, sprinkle with minced parsley and serve immediately.Variation: For a somewhat less traditional but more suave version of this dish, use an imported Dijon (such as PIC, available at Traverso's) in place of the whole grain mustard.