Chronicle review of Herbivore

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letters

 

http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?file=/chronicle/archive/2004/05/12

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6Q6JA891.DTL & type=food

 

You don't have to be a vegetarian to like Herbivore

 

Amanda Berne Wednesday, May 12, 2004

 

Even though Herbivore is vegan -- no meat, dairy or eggs -- carnivores

won't

feel uncomfortable here, even if they're wearing a leather belt. The

only

hint of politics comes in the pamphlets that rustle at your feet when

you

walk in the front door, emblazoned with questions like, " Why go vegan? "

 

Otherwise, the interior is demure. Earth tones cover the walls and the

concrete floor, and small lights suspended by cables cast a dim light.

Paintings of fruits and vegetables, some in unusual combinations,

punctuate

the room with bright colors, saving the space from being coldly

industrial.

 

A few tables outside let you absorb the local flavor as passersby walk

down

bustling Divisadero, but it's the patio out back that's a real find.

Flowers

and apartment buildings hug the sides of the two-tiered space, giving it

the

feel of your own backyard. On sunny days, it's an absolute treat.

 

On one of those sunny days, start with the Vietnamese cold spring rolls

($5.50). Mint, rice noodles, carrots and spinach, tightly bundled in

rice

paper, combine in crunchy balance. The peanut dipping sauce delivers a

tiny

kick of chiles with each bite.

 

Surprising ceviche

 

Although I was hesitant to order a vegan ceviche ($4.95), I forged ahead

and

was pleasantly surprised. The oyster mushrooms, tofu and thin slices of

onion marinated in lime juice and cilantro provided a totally acceptable

and

refreshing knock-off. Roasted almonds ($3.25) with lemon-cayenne

seasoning

would have been nice if they'd been toasted, but instead tasted chewy

and a

bit raw.

 

The rest of the menu is diverse and fairly comprehensive. Noodles,

salads,

sandwiches, wraps, hot dishes and pasta are influenced by a range of

cuisines, from American to Asian and Mediterranean to Latin. Many dishes

are

recreations of familiar meat-based favorites, like shawarma and pad

Thai.

Omnivores can easily find dishes that please.

 

Try the seitan shawarma ($6.50) and you may not even realize it's meat-

free. The grilled seitan -- a meat substitute made from wheat gluten --

is

wrapped with onions, tomatoes, spicy red hot sauce and tahini into a

sturdy

and satisfying bundle. Splurge the extra 75 cents for the eggplant,

which

adds a silky texture.

 

The veggie burger ($7.50) mimics the texture of a regular burger. Soft

and

tangy, it could use another couple of minutes on the grill to firm it

up,

but the mixture of whole grains, lentils and spices has loads of flavor.

 

Other sandwiches are hit or miss. The grilled portobello mushroom

sandwich

($7.50) had a nice smokiness, but lacked seasoning. That could be

because

the promised garlic aioli was virtually forgotten. Wasabi soba noodles

($6.95) tingled my mouth with the heat of the Japanese horseradish.

Offered

cold or warm, the salad combines chewy noodles with long fingers of

tofu,

oyster mushrooms and charred broccoli. The fresh spinach adds pleasant

flavor and texture, but out-of-season tomatoes detracted from the dish.

 

Tricky sauces

 

In vegan cooking, substitutions are often made to create dishes

comparable

to what you would find elsewhere. Sometimes it works, but with the

cream-based sauces, it doesn't. Penne and lemon-herb cream ($9.95) made

with

soy milk coated my mouth in a chalky sauce reminiscent of milk of

magnesia,

and the superfluous raw tomato slices tossed in at the last minute

didn't

blend.

 

The moussaka ($8.75), a rendition of the Greek eggplant and lamb

casserole

bound by a bechamel, was disappointing as well. Potatoes provide sturdy

layers, but the tofu ricotta and eggplant disappeared under a blanket of

thick tomato sauce.

 

A real test is how Herbivore serves brunch without eggs, bacon or cream

for

coffee. The restaurant handles it well. Tofu scrambles replace typical

egg

dishes, pancakes appear soft and fluffy, and soy milk is automatically

put

on the table in place of cream.

 

Fruit pancakes ($7.25) studded with blueberries and adorned with hot

sauteed

banana spears are soft and tender. Arrowroot replaces eggs as a binder,

and

papaya nectar adds extra flavor.

 

The basil pesto scrambled tofu ($8.25) packs immense flavor, but is

chopped

so fine that it lacks chew. Home-fried potatoes on the side have a nice

crust, but suffer from lack of seasoning.

 

On one visit, some friends joined me with their baby. The server

immediately

provided a high chair, a tray to play with -- washed, even -- and a few

bites of veggie burger. The baby cooed happily as one of the servers

rattled

on in Spanish to him.

 

On other visits, service was efficient, but we were never offered

dessert.

It's strange because the desserts, made by a bakery in Santa Cruz, are

one

of the best parts of the meal.

 

Good choices include a rich, moist fudgy German chocolate cake ($4.50)

and a

carrot cake ($4.50) with soy cream cheese frosting.

 

Herbivore is cornering the San Francisco vegan market, with two

locations

(the other is in the Mission District at 983 Valencia St., near 21st

Street). While not everything works, the dishes showcasing simplicity

and

light flavors keep the neighborhood's urbanites coming back.

 

C 2004 San Francisco Chronicle