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This article is from The Star Online

URL:

http://thestar.com.my/lifestyle/story.asp?file=/2004/6/29/features/2004062816030\

7 & sec=features

 

________________________

 

Tuesday June 29, 2004

Order to leave Sipadan

By TAN CHENG LI

 

 

 

THE order is out, finally: Get off Sipadan. The Government has at last heeded

calls for the Sabah island to be emptied of dive resorts as it was getting too

crowded for its own good.

 

All six operators are to leave the world-famous dive site by year end. The

authorities say the operators can relocate to other islands and their guests can

still make day trips to Sipadan.

 

The two oldest dive outfits there, Borneo Divers and Pulau Sipadan Resort, have

agreed to move.

 

Both will be the least affected by the eviction notice since they have

alternative resorts nearby, in Pulau Mabul and Pulau Kapalai respectively, to

cushion the blow.

 

The other four – Sipadan Dive Centre, Syarikat Rami Benar, Borneo Sea Adventures

and PB Borneo Safari – have cried foul and collectively sought a court order to

quash the state decision. They have also submitted an alternative conservation

management proposal to the Government.

 

The reason behind the order is said to be preservation of the island and its

marine marvels. But suspicions are rife. Is it really for conservation? Has

Sipadan degraded to such an extent? Is it a ploy to get rid of existing

operators so that new and politically well-linked groups can move in?

 

Admittedly, the eviction notice issued in April appears harsh. After all, there

is no denying that the dive operators have done Sipadan a world of good. Their

presence was what stopped the highly destructive blast fishing in the Sulu Sea,

raised the island’s conservation importance and placed it on the world list of

top 10 dive destinations.

 

These brought in tourism revenue and employment opportunities.

 

 

 

But they also left indelible marks on the island. As Sipadan’s fame grew,

everyone tried to grab a slice of the magical island.

 

New lodges sprang up overnight, often haphazardly. The one resort in the late

1980s grew to six by 1995. No one could ask them to leave because no one had the

jurisdiction to do so. So back then, operators had free rein of the place. With

few rules and management, chalets spread into the forest, wells were dug and

sewage was not thoroughly treated. Four other resorts came up in surrounding

islands – and all their guests dive at Sipadan.

 

At one point, as many as 300 visitors crowd the once uninhabited island paradise

each day. Pilot Michael Chou, who first visited Sipadan in 1991, now prefers to

stay at the less-crowded Pulau Mabul. “During one trip, I abandoned plans for

night dives after seeing over 50 divers at one spot alone. What can you see

except diving fins and bubbles?”

 

<b>Tourism toll</b>

 

The swelling visitor numbers and ensuing need for supporting facilities led to

environmental strain. Sipadan was simply being loved to death. Studies over the

years have revealed the effects of relentless dive tourism: some reefs have

turned into rubble, loss of vegetation, saltwater seepage into groundwater and

pollution of groundwater.

 

Renowned marine photographer Michael Aw who first plunged into the depths of

Sipadan in 1985, can attest to the degradation. “What it is now is about 30% of

its former glory.

 

In the reefs, there used to be 90%live coral. Currently it is barely 30% . The

diversity of species is more or less the same although density has somewhat

deteriorated by about half. Aesthetically, the reef looks very tired.” Apart

from sewerage, pollution and runoffs, Aw says boat traffic and anchoring have

caused massive destruction.

 

In fact, alarm bells were sounded as early as 10 years ago. Marine biologist Dr

Elizabeth Wood in a 1994 report commissioned by the World Wide Fund for Nature

had urged for a resort-free island if Sipadan’s biological wealth is to remain

intact.

 

The Government had previously treaded cautiously where Sipadan is concerned

because of the territorial dispute with Indonesia. And dive operators, fully

aware that they were squatters who may be evicted anytime, were unbothered about

investing in costly but efficient sewerage systems.

 

Sabah could not gazette the island as a marine reserve as this would be deemed a

political move offensive to Indonesia. Now, armed with the International Court

of Justice ruling that Sipadan is Malaysia’s, it can finally flex its muscle

over management of the island.

 

For sure, ridding the island of overnight guests will lessen the pressure – all

the structures, rooms, generators and wells are no longer needed. Nesting

turtles will get a rest from noise and light disturbance, as will the reef and

its inhabitants from crowds.

 

 

 

Borneo Divers managing director Clement Lee feels the government decision is

just what Sipadan needs. “It is harsh and it is hurting us but the Government is

doing the right thing. Yes, the environment on Sipadan has been affected. But it

is still curable. So the island should be given time to recuperate.”

 

Lee sees a positive side to the eviction order. “Sipadan has received much bad

press in recent years, what with the Abu Sayyaf hostage crisis and complaints

about the crowds. If the island is left for three to five years to rest, there

will be better perception that we are taking positive steps to preserve the

environment.”

 

As Sipadan’s reputation as an unspoilt wildlife haven began to tarnish, dive

operators were driven to lighten their footprints on the island. Now, laundry

and garbage are carted to the mainland. Some resorts use only biodegradable

soaps and detergents.

 

Between 1993 and 1997, they pooled resources to buy turtle nests from

traditional collectors so that eggs were left to hatch and not dug up. In 1999,

the operators formed a consortium, the Sipadan Borneo Resort Management Sdn Bhd,

to pool resort services which either pollute, overlap or cost a lot of money if

handled separately.

 

This includes coach transfers between Tawau and Semporna, as well as speedboat

transfers to the island but plans to share compressors and power generators

fizzled out.

 

Fortunately, land constraints forced a limit on facilities. So there are no

sprawling hotels on Sipadan. Instead, divers pay top dollars yet sleep in

spartan wooden huts and share showers and toilets. But Sipadan’s marine wonders

still had them coming in droves.

 

In response to growing criticisms over the ill-effects of tourism, Sabah started

restricting overnight visitor numbers gradually, from 100 in 1999 to the present

80. Excess rooms and structures were torn down. Divers boated in from the nearby

islands of Mabul and Kapalai also had quotas. To demonstrate their seriousness,

the authorities arrested two Japanese divers in October 1999 for not having

permits to be on the island.

 

Of course, questions emerged over how the quota of 80 was arrived at. And with

each resort allowed only 14 overnight guests when they used to have 30 to 40,

operations were barely economically viable.

 

It is not surprising that this sudden zeal to protect the island by controlling

the crowds did not last. This quota is now hardly adhered to.

 

<b>Don’t vacate all</b>

 

But shipping everyone out of Sipadan is not the answer. “In many ways, the

divers and diving operators based in Sipadan helped deter illegal fishing. So a

complete move is a bad idea. At least retain one operator,” says Aw.

 

Marine biologist Dr Nicolas Pilcher concurs. “It is ironic that divers who had

helped preserve the place have now been asked to leave to preserve it,” says the

director of the Kota Kinabalu-based Marine Research Foundation. He fears that

once the island is vacated, blast fishing may start.

 

It still occurs today, although minimally.

Pilcher, who is studying Sipadan’s invertebrate biodiversity, believes little

will change with the departure of dive operators.

 

“Visitors might not sleep there but they will still stay almost the whole day on

the island. Facilities such as toilets and rest areas are still needed but who’s

going to clean them and clear the refuse? Sabah Parks staff?” A better option to

dive operators leaving the island, he believes, is to tighten and better enforce

existing controls, such as the visitor quota.

 

Indeed, day visits can be ecologically destructive too if left unregulated.

“Hundreds of day trippers can be just as damaging to the marine environment as

100 divers based on the island,” cautions Wood, who is coral reef conservation

officer of Britain’s Marine Conservation Society.

 

“The crucial thing is for the management authority to ensure that they control

the situation and don’t just replace one problem with another.”

 

Dive and tour operators must brief visitors about not touching, collecting and

stepping on marine life. There is an urgent need to address this because while

previously visitors were mainly foreign divers, fast boats today bring in loads

of day trippers. Being mostly poor swimmers or inexperienced snorkellers, they

trample on corals.

 

Also, will relocating resorts to other islands be merely shifting Sipadan’s woes

elsewhere? Mabul, 15 minutes away, is not that much bigger than Sipadan and

already has three resorts.

 

All efforts to keep Sipadan pristine would be pointless if silty and polluted

run-offs continue to wash into the sea from the mainland.

 

“This problem has not really been addressed but it may well have led to a

deterioration in water quality. If so, it will impact reef health. Some dive

operators say water visibility has declined,” says Wood.

 

Aw points out that the well-being of reef systems in the vicinity contributes to

the health of Sipadan but little is done to educate local communities. The Bajau

Laut (sea gypsies) settlers in Mabul, for instance, dump everything into the

sea.

 

Some believe Sipadan could support a single small, well-run lodge for overnight

accommodation. Borneo Diver’s Lee says the consortium had submitted a

development and management plan a few years ago at the state’s request. The plan

suggested a consolidation of all operators into one “integrated resort.” State

authorities did not respond to the plan. This proposal merits consideration.

After all, one reason for the current piecemeal development on Sipadan is

because there are six operators, all doing their own thing.

 

The dive operators, meanwhile, want more talks with state authorities to clarify

the many uncertainties, such as the management of dives and day visits. They

also seek state assistance to relocate elsewhere. “Ultimately, we have to sell

other dive destinations to take away the impact of diving from Sipadan,” says

Datuk Douglas Primus, managing director of Sipadan Dive Centre.

 

Both state and federal authorities remain tight-lipped about the future of the

island, apart from announcing aims for a World Heritage Site listing. Sipadan is

also likely to be designated a marine reserve under Sabah Parks. Its deputy

director Paul Basintal says a research and display centre is likely to be set

up. He says initial steps will be to restore the island’s vegetation, clear all

rubbish in the interiors and remove domestic animals.

 

Wood says the Sabah Parks, reef biologists, dive operators and other

stakeholders need to work together to produce a conservation management plan

that will promote recovery and prevent further damage.

 

She urges for a survey into the effect of vegetation removal and disturbance. A

population census should be taken of the coconut crab (Birgus latro)which is

under threat in many localities elsewhere in the Indo-Pacific. At present

nothing is known of the status of this species at Sipadan. There is also a need

to clarify the status of other endangered species such as the rare Nicobar

pigeon.

 

Whatever plans the Government has, one good thing is that they will start on a

clean slate. If in the past the island’s disputed status posed a dilemma, there

are no excuses this time for not doing things right since Sipadan is now

rightfully Malaysia’s. But this island is just a dot in the vast ocean,

certainly too tiny to withstand years of wanton exploitation in the name of

earning tourist dollars and yen.

 

 

<b>Related Story:</b>

 

<a

href= " http://thestar.com.my/lifestyle/story.asp?file=/2004/6/29/features/8286879\

& sec=features " >Lifting the burden</a>

 

 

<p>

 

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