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This article is from The Star Online

URL:

http://thestar.com.my/lifestyle/story.asp?file=/2004/6/22/features/8239547 & sec=f\

eatures

 

________________________

 

Tuesday June 22, 2004

Wildlife on a platter

By TODD PITMAN

 

When it comes to figuring out what qualifies as food in Congo, most people

follow a simple, unspoken rule: If it can move, it can be eaten, writes TODD

PITMAN.

 

CROCODILE, boa constrictor, tortoise and antelope top the menu, served up in

banana-leaf sacks with french fries on the side. And for the willing, there’s

one dish that would make most carnivores squirm: monkey meat.

 

 

 

At Mama Ekila’s Inzia restaurant in Kinshasa, African bushmeat is flown in –

and fried up – for discerning diners looking to put a bit of adventure on their

plate.

 

“It’s flown in fresh from Equator Province,” says waitress Julie Ntshila,

encouraging an unconvinced diner to try a delicacy from the north-east of Congo.

“I love it.”

 

Wildlife conservationists shudder over such carefree culinary spirits –

particularly in Congo, where a thriving bushmeat trade is threatening to wipe

out some species altogether. Two at risk are great apes found only in Congo –

eastern lowland gorillas and bonobos, or pygmy chimpanzees.

 

In West Africa, wildlife populations have been so depleted that “rodents have

replaced the over-hunted and now scarce antelope and primates as the most

commonly eaten wild animals,” the US-headquartered Bushmeat Crisis Task Force

says.

 

In Central Africa, an estimated 1 million tons of wildlife is consumed annually

by some 24 million people, 80% of whose meat diet comes from the bush.

 

At an open-air market in the north-eastern jungle city of Kisangani in Congo,

flies swarm around severed goat heads and hooves, stacked up like a scene from a

horror show.

 

Pulsating white palm grubs are sold en masse, wrapped into large green leaves

for take away.

 

Serpents, too, lie sprawled across wooden tables, burnt to a crisp. There are

slimy snails, bush-pigs and muskrats.

 

“We eat everything here. Nothing gets wasted,” says Diner Folo, a 35-year-old

resident cruising the gritty, crowded market.

 

On a table, two dozen blackened macaque monkeys are piled high, the sticks they

were smoked on still jutting from their mouths.

 

Back at the restaurant, Mama Ekila says she doesn’t sell endangered wildlife

and the monkey dishes are primarily macaques, a common species found from Africa

to Japan.

 

Though resident expatriates and tourists often sample the more bizarre items on

her menu (chicken and beef are also available), it is the Congolese for whom the

bushmeat is most popular.

 

“In Africa, we have to sell things that Africans want to eat,” Mama Ekila says.

“Every country has its specialties. In Italy, it’s pasta. In America, it’s hot

dogs. In Congo, monkey meat is just one.” – AP<p>

 

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