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This article is from The Star Online (http://thestar.com.my)

URL:

http://thestar.com.my/lifestyle/story.asp?file=/2004/4/13/features/7458779 & sec=f\

eatures

 

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Tuesday April 13, 2004

Paradise Laos

By DENIS D. GRAY

 

Laos has discovered a lucrative eco-tourism niche, writes DENIS D. GRAY.

 

YOUNG Western women, stripped down to bare essentials to catch the tropical sun,

pass out candy and coins to begging village toddlers. Their male, backpacker

cohorts bargain for some opium and maybe a tribal tryst for the night.

 

As Asia’s once remote regions are pried open to tourism such cultural

collisions become ever-more common and hasten, critics say, the breakdown of

vulnerable societies. Environmental harm is often a byproduct.

 

In Laos, with rich tribal traditions, pristine landscapes and a fledgling

tourist industry, the government and foreign groups are hoping there’s still

time to head off such damage while reaping some of tourism’s rewards. They’ve

met with some initial success.

 

Here in the mountains of northern Laos, home to the Akha, Hmong and 36 other

officially recognised ethnic groups, trekkers are guided to carefully selected

tribal villages which receive 10,000 kip (RM6) per each tourist to be used for

medicine, schooling and general community welfare. The guides, locally recruited

and knowledgeable, explain cultural taboos to the visitors, like not touching

gates to Akha villages in which guardian spirits are said to dwell. In turn,

they interpret the ways of foreigners to the oft-bewildered hosts. Groups are

limited to a maximum of eight so as not to strain supplies of food.

 

 

 

Boontha Chelernsuk, a tourism official, explains that the Nam Ha Eco-tourism

Project has brought other benefits. With tourist income coming in, illegal

logging and hunting of wildlife by the poor tribesman has diminished and health

conditions are improving. As part of the training on how to host foreigners,

villagers learn about using toilets, boiling water, sleeping under mosquito nets

and preserving the ecology around them.

 

“Nam Ha has become a model. We’re going to replicate it in other parts of

Laos,” says Steven Schipani, a dynamic American who was key in launching the

award-winning, government-Unesco project four years ago.

 

Schipani says the Luang Nam Tha area, with its trekking trails, village

destinations and The Boat Landing Guest House, an exemplary eco-lodge, will be

used as a field training site for guides and tourism officials from other

provinces where similar projects will be planted. Private operators, he hopes,

will emulate them and the government and its foreign advisers can then step back

to act as regulators and monitors.

 

“Laos is still very much at the point where we can catch runaway development,

but it can go haywire because tourism can be a real money-spinner,” says

Schipani. “I worry things can go the way of the freewheeling Thailand model,

which makes a lot of money.”

 

In Laos, tourism became the No.1 foreign income earner in 2000, when the

industry added some US$113mil (RM430mil) to the country’s very meager coffers,

ranking ahead of hydroelectric power sales, logging and garment exports.

 

Long isolated by war and communist revolution, the country was “discovered” in

the early 1990s and touted as among the world’s shrinking number of “unspoiled

places.” Tourist numbers have gone up from 37,600 in 1991 to about 700,000 last

year.

 

Upon realising that nature and cultural tourism were making up more than half

of visitor revenues, Laos placed eco-tourism at the core of its official

strategy, Schipani says. The Asian Development Bank, European Union, New Zealand

and others are offering assistance in support of this focus.

 

 

 

“My vision is to make Laos the center of eco-tourism in South-East Asia,” says

Schipani, a New Yorker who earlier worked as a Peace Corps volunteer in

neighboring Thailand. “The decision makers are starting to understand they can’t

compete with Thailand in resorts, shopping and nightlife, so they are going the

eco route.”

 

The path offers rewards and some serious challenges.

 

In a still largely subsistence economy, community-based tourism brings in cash

needed by rural people for basic goods and may keep them from migrating to towns

in search of jobs, Schipani says. “Village women can make more in one hour by

cooking for a tourist than collecting bamboo shoots in the forest for a week,”

he explains. “Some of our best guides are former hunters. They can get US$5

(RM19) a day instead of killing a bird for US$1 (RM3.80).”

 

At the national level, conservation efforts can be strengthened if authorities

are convinced that forests and wildlife should be preserved for long-term

tourism gain rather than wiped out for one-time sale. Tourism revenue can in

turn be used for the environment. Fees from the Unesco effort are used to

protect the Nam Ha National Biodiversity Conservation Area, a major wilderness

reserve from which the project draws its name.

 

“It’s all changing very quickly. Ten years ago you could see the Akha in their

traditional costumes everywhere. Now, it’s almost all gone except deep inside

the countryside,” says Bill Tuffin, a longtime Laos resident and who started The

Boat Landing Guest House.

 

As happened earlier in tribal areas of northern Thailand, some are ashamed of

wearing their traditional attire in front of foreigners or don it just to beg or

be photographed for a fee.

 

Tuffin, from Pueblo, Colorado, says backpackers are already shunning some areas

because they’re “sort of worn out” and exploring remoter destinations.

 

“Most tourists don’t want to leave a big footprint. They want to have that

meaningful kind of experience with local people,” he says. “But it’s an art to

have tourists going into a village again and again and not have them leave a

negative impact.” – AP

 

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