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This article is from The Star Online (http://thestar.com.my)

URL:

http://thestar.com.my/lifestyle/story.asp?file=/2004/1/13/features/6869568 & sec=f\

eatures

 

________________________

 

Tuesday January 13, 2004

A fishy endeavour

By JEFF BERNARD

 

Salmon farming, long criticised for pollution problems, struggles to green its

act, JEFF BERNARD reports.

 

WHEN it & #8217;s feeding time at Humphrey Rock, British Columbia, oily brown

pellets engineered for size, sink rate, nutrition, and medication spray out of

computer-controlled hoses to 600,000 swirling and jumping Atlantic salmon.

 

Standing on floating net pens, workers watch intently through underwater

cameras, speeding the feeding rate when the fish swim faster and closer to the

surface, slowing it when the fish swim deeper and slower. The idea is to feed

the fish as much as they will eat for maximum growth without letting any feed

fall through to the bottom.

 

“You & #8217;re playing them like a piano,” said Rocky Boschman, manager of Stolt

Sea Farm Inc & #8217;s Humphrey Rock facility. “It takes a person five to six

months to get a handle on it. It & #8217;s the most important thing we do.”

 

 

 

British Columbia has some 85 salmon farms rotating through 125 sites, nearly

all of them around the remote western end of Vancouver Island. They produced

70,000 tons of salmon in 2002, 80% of it exported to the United States.

 

When British Columbia lifted a seven-year moratorium on new aquaculture sites

last year, the industry looked forward to a major expansion to feed an aging US

population seeking heart-healthy foods.

 

However, high prices that marked the late 1990s have turned disastrously low,

putting the industry into a global shakeout that has caused millions of dollars

in losses and made every feed pellet count. Meanwhile, stricter new

environmental regulations have slowed federal and provincial government approval

of new sites.

 

Environmentalists in the United States and Canada joined forces in a boycott

campaign to pressure salmon farmers to get greener. And Indian tribes are in

court challenging the right of the government to put farms in waters that they

claim for their own, arguing the fish farms threaten wild salmon.

 

“This business is not for the faint of heart,” said Dale Blackburn, vice

president for West Coast operations for Stilt Sea Farm, generally considered

British Columbia & #8217;s biggest salmon farmer and one of the top four in the

world.

 

Salmon farms in British Columbia began in the 1970s as mom-and-pop operations

dotted around coastal inlets. When US wild salmon runs crashed in the early

1990s, international conglomerates controlling the industry filled the gap.

Salmon turned from a seasonal treat to a global commodity.

 

According to H.M. Johnson & Associates & #8217; 2003 report on the US seafood

industry, salmon farms produced 1.4 million tons in 2002, 60% of world supply.

Norway led with 530,000 tons, followed by Chile, Britain, Canada, the United

States, and Japan. The US imported 118,000 tons as salmon grew to the third most

popular seafood in the country, after shrimp and tuna. Most of it came from

Chile, poised to overtake Norway as the world leader.

 

After the heady days of the late 1990s, rapid expansion in Chile has been

widely blamed for driving down prices, sending the industry into a tailspin. As

the industry grew, so did environmental problems. The first was waste. Tons of

fish faeces and uneaten food settling on the bottom beneath anchored net pens

created dead zones of depleted oxygen and few plants or animals.

 

Seals and sea lions broke through the nets to prey on the captive fish,

allowing millions of Atlantic salmon to escape. Biologists feared the Atlantics

would pass disease to Pacific salmon, interbreed, and push the natives out of

scarce habitat. Established runs of Atlantics were reported in two rivers.

 

The feed, based on ground-up fish such as mackerel and anchovies, was

questioned by scientists who feared it concentrated contaminants such as

cancer-causing PCBs and depleted the oceans of prey for wild fish. A lawsuit in

Washington forced grocery stores to label farmed fish as containing a dye, given

through the feed to turn the flesh pink without crustaceans in the natural diet.

 

The latest issue is sea lice. A half-dozen lice on the tail of an adult wild

salmon tells a chef it is fresh from the sea. But that many on each of the

600,000 fish at a salmon farm can broadcast millions of larvae into surrounding

waters, where they can attach to tiny young salmon migrating to the ocean.

 

Stolt environmental manager Clare Backman said a combination of market forces,

government regulation, and environmentalists have pushed salmon farms to get

better. Farms lie fallow a year or more to allow wastes to dissipate. Stronger

nets keep out seals. Better infection-control minimises disease outbreaks and

reduces the need for antibiotics. As fish meal prices rise, feed producers look

for plant materials, such as canola oil, reducing demand on the ocean food web.

 

Environmentalists, Indian tribes, and salmon farms are still fighting over the

sea lice. Biologist Alexandra Morton argues that sea lice swarming around farms

in the Broughton Archipelago amount to a lethal gauntlet for tiny pink salmon

smolts migrating to the ocean. Four tribes are suing Stolt and Heritage Salmon

Ltd, blaming them for precipitous declines in pink salmon.

 

Stolt & #8217;s Blackburn countered that sudden population crashes are typical of

the pink salmon, and the scientific evidence on sea lice and young salmon,

largely from Europe, is inconclusive.

 

Moving salmon farms onto land or exchanging fibreglass tanks for net pens in

the ocean, as environmentalists want, would solve most of the problems. But

prices would have to double or triple to cover the high cost of pumping water,

said Backman.

 

Dissatisfied with government regulation, environmental groups have taken out

ads in the New York Times and held demonstrations in front of grocery stores

urging consumers to boycott farmed salmon, arguing they are tainted by

chemicals, antibiotics, and dyes.

 

Recognising that consumers want greater assurances for food safety and

sustainability than government regulation, the industry will begin establishing

criteria for independent certification this spring, said Yves Bastien,

Canada & #8217;s commissioner for aquaculture development.

 

The Canadian Centre for Policy Alternatives concluded in a report for

environmentalists that salmon farms are still a bad deal: jobs are limited,

taxes generated may not cover the cost of regulation, and they threaten sport

and commercial fishing, fish processing, and tourism, each of which generate

more money. & #8211; AP<p>

 

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