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Hi everyone. I'm a reasonably new herb gardener, 3 years now. My garden's

looking great now, except for one thing. Some horrid mint muncher that has

remained unseen except for his damage. My spearmint is looking like swiss

cheese. No discolored leaves, just holes. I must have good mint too...

it's just about all been eaten. And whoever it is... they don't like other

herbs at all. Just mint.

 

I tried Googling " bugs eating mint " to not much success. Can someone

provide some guidance as to what it might be as well as a SAFE remedy? I

don't like using the commercial stuff at all.

 

Thanks -

 

Mo in Cleveland, Ohio

 

 

 

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Hi Mo,

 

I had earwigs, cucumber beetles, four lined plant bugs and few others

messing with my herbs & flowers this year -- I use a homemade Garlic

Neem Spray and it has really helped. Just be careful as too much

garlic (or heat) can burn your herbs. Also, I never spray my plants

when it is really hot or during the day. I wait until the sun is down

and temperature is around 80 degrees.

 

I do a mini patch test on the plant that I am planning on spraying, if

all goes well within 12-24 hours, I spray it fully. Like

us, they too can react badly...natural ingredients or not :)

 

If you get a chance, look under the leaves and even on the soil, write

down if you see anything, big or little. Keep us posted.

 

Be well,

Sevi

 

.................

mundo botanica

http://www.mundobotanica.com

 

 

 

 

, " M. Gilbert "

<michelle.gilbert@s...> wrote:

> Hi everyone. I'm a reasonably new herb gardener, 3 years now. My

garden's

> looking great now, except for one thing. Some horrid mint muncher

that has

> remained unseen except for his damage. My spearmint is looking like

swiss

> cheese. No discolored leaves, just holes. I must have good mint

too...

> it's just about all been eaten. And whoever it is... they don't

like other

> herbs at all. Just mint.

>

> I

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Hi Sevi - Thanks for the tip. That's the kind of thing I'm looking for. Do

you just crush some garlic into neem oil and spray? Is the ratio of each

important? And this rinses off okay without leaving flavor traces behind?

 

I'll hopefully give that a try this evening. It's 84 here right now, so by

dusk it should be below 80 without problem. I'll also look around and see

if I see anyone ;-)

 

Thanks so much -

Mo

On Behalf Of S.Kay

Monday, July 11, 2005 4:16 PM

Re: what's eating my mint??

 

 

Hi Mo,

 

I had earwigs, cucumber beetles, four lined plant bugs and few others

messing with my herbs & flowers this year -- I use a homemade Garlic

Neem Spray and it has really helped. Just be careful as too much

garlic (or heat) can burn your herbs. Also, I never spray my plants

when it is really hot or during the day. I wait until the sun is down

and temperature is around 80 degrees.

 

I do a mini patch test on the plant that I am planning on spraying, if

all goes well within 12-24 hours, I spray it fully. Like

us, they too can react badly...natural ingredients or not :)

 

If you get a chance, look under the leaves and even on the soil, write

down if you see anything, big or little. Keep us posted.

 

Be well,

Sevi

 

 

 

 

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Guest guest

Hi Mo,

 

I have a basic recipe on my site - you need to click on " my garlic

& neem spray " to view it. http://www.sevikay.com/glemonv.htm

 

It does not leave any traces of garlic that I have noticed. I like

using garlic as it can also act as an anti-fungal, but you can tweak

the ingredients as you get comfortable.

 

If you can take the humidity and the temperature -- add them together

and if you get anything over 140 - do not spray your herbs.

 

I also make a cayenne pepper spray due to the capsaicin in it, but

just be sure to wear gloves while working with cayenne peppers, it is

a strong irritant to skin and mucous membranes. I also wear goggles :)

 

Hope this helps -- let us know how it all goes.

 

Be well,

Sevi

 

..............

mundo botanica

http://www.mundobotanica.com

 

 

 

 

, " M. Gilbert "

<michelle.gilbert@s...> wrote:

> Hi Sevi - Thanks for the tip. That's the kind of thing I'm looking

for. Do

> you just crush some garlic into neem oil and spray? Is the ratio of

each

> important? And this rinses off okay without leaving flavor traces

behind?

>

> I'll hopefully give that a try this evening. It's 84 here right

now, so by

> dusk it should be below 80 without problem. I'll also look around

and see

> if I see anyone ;-)

>

> Thanks so much -

> Mo

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Guest guest

I have had the same trouble this year.I moved into a

new house and I have a whole new set of bugs.Earwigs

and spider mites are my problems.I mix murphy oil soap

and garlic powder and sometimes a bit of powderd chili

pepper.It does great for the soft body insects but, I

am still having trouble with the earwigs.Ravenstone

 

--- " M. Gilbert " <michelle.gilbert

wrote:

 

> Hi everyone. I'm a reasonably new herb gardener, 3

> years now. My garden's

> looking great now, except for one thing. Some

> horrid mint muncher that has

> remained unseen except for his damage. My spearmint

> is looking like swiss

> cheese. No discolored leaves, just holes. I must

> have good mint too...

> it's just about all been eaten. And whoever it

> is... they don't like other

> herbs at all. Just mint.

>

> I tried Googling " bugs eating mint " to not much

> success. Can someone

> provide some guidance as to what it might be as well

> as a SAFE remedy? I

> don't like using the commercial stuff at all.

>

> Thanks -

>

> Mo in Cleveland, Ohio

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been

> removed]

>

>

 

 

 

 

 

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Guest guest

Thank you again Sevi!

 

By the way, what a beautiful web site you have. I will be taking a closer

look at it in the future! I really appreciate your complete info, and I'm

sorry to see your lovely lemon verbena suffering that fate... it looks like

my mint :-( I'll follow your advice on the humidity and temp guidelines

too.

 

I've heard capsaicin works for things too... and I've also heard that

cinnamon spray will fight mold, or am I remembering incorrectly? I have to

keep better notes!

 

Thanks again - Will report back with results and if I find my visitor, what

s/he looks like.

 

Mo

 

On Behalf Of S.Kay

Monday, July 11, 2005 6:15 PM

Re: what's eating my mint??

 

 

Hi Mo,

 

I have a basic recipe on my site - you need to click on " my garlic

& neem spray " to view it. http://www.sevikay.com/glemonv.htm

 

It does not leave any traces of garlic that I have noticed. I like

using garlic as it can also act as an anti-fungal, but you can tweak

the ingredients as you get comfortable.

 

If you can take the humidity and the temperature -- add them together

and if you get anything over 140 - do not spray your herbs.

 

I also make a cayenne pepper spray due to the capsaicin in it, but

just be sure to wear gloves while working with cayenne peppers, it is

a strong irritant to skin and mucous membranes. I also wear goggles :)

 

Hope this helps -- let us know how it all goes.

 

Be well,

Sevi

 

.............

mundo botanica

http://www.mundobotanica.com

 

 

 

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Guest guest

Hi Mo,

 

> Thank you again Sevi!<<

 

You are very welcome :)

 

> By the way, what a beautiful web site you have.

 

Thank you so much. Makes me very happy to hear it!

 

> I've heard capsaicin works for things too... and I've also heard

that cinnamon spray will fight mold, or am I remembering incorrectly?

>I have to keep better notes!

 

I have not used cinnamon spray, but have used ground cinnamon

effectively in the past. Yes - it can be helpful with fungus.

 

I forgot to mention that I also use Diatomaceous Earth and the earwigs

are not too happy with me :-)

 

> Thanks again - Will report back with results and if I find my

visitor, what s/he looks like.

 

Sounds great -- here is to hoping that the visitors will move out and

leave your mint alone!

 

Be well,

Sevi :)

 

.............

mundo botanica

http://www.mundobotanica.com

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Guest guest

Thanks Ravenstone - sounds like the common ingredients in recommendations

are liquid soap, garlic, and capsaicin. Hope you can manage the earwigs...

I'll be giving these suggestions a try for sure.

 

Mo

On Behalf Of Ravenstone Willowbend

Monday, July 11, 2005 7:20 PM

Re: what's eating my mint??

 

 

I have had the same trouble this year.I moved into a

new house and I have a whole new set of bugs.Earwigs

and spider mites are my problems.I mix murphy oil soap

and garlic powder and sometimes a bit of powderd chili

pepper.It does great for the soft body insects but, I

am still having trouble with the earwigs.Ravenstone

 

 

 

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Guest guest

Thanks, I will look into this.Ravenstone

 

--- " S.Kay " <cs wrote:

 

> Hi Ravenstone-

>

> >>I

> > am still having trouble with the

> earwigs.Ravenstone<<

>

> I also use Diatomaceous Earth and earwigs as well as

> many other

> buggers (fleas too) cannot handle DE.

>

> Be well,

> Sevi

>

> ............

> mundo botanica

> http://www.mundobotanica.com

>

>

>

 

 

 

 

 

Discover

Get on-the-go sports scores, stock quotes, news and more. Check it out!

http://discover./mobile.html

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Guest guest

You've received some good ideas to help control your infestation, I suspect

is some kind of worm or larvae eating your beloved mint.

 

I have another idea for you, only as reference, for consideration. I use BT

for my leaf munchers, it's easy to apply, I can buy it at Walmart, and it's

relatively safe to humans and the environment. Back in the 1980's, it was

recommended by Robert Rodale, one of the organic gardening pioneers. Here

is some info I found about it for you:

 

http://www.aeha.ca/green-advice.htm

 

 

BT Bacillus Thuringiensis

 

1. Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) is a naturally occurring, soil borne organism

that paralyzes and destroys the stomach cells of insects that consume it

especially larvae of flies and months. At present Bt is the only " microbial

insecticide " in widespread use of insect control. Bacterial agents are

effective in controlling insects in the larva stage only. The larvae is

usually a caterpillar or worm and you must get it early at this stage both

to eliminate the pest and to avoid too much damage to the leaves. This type

of Bt kills many leaf-eating caterpillars--including those that will become

butterflies. If butterflies are desired, try to use Bt only on the foliage

of plants infested with a leaf or needle-eating larva. You'll usually find

the pests on the undersides of leaves and are usually the same color as the

leaf so as not to attract predators. Therefore Bt should be applied to the

UNDERSIDES of leaves because Bt must be ingested to be effective.

 

2. Bt is broken down faster in sunlight. Application to the undersides of

the leaf surfaces will prolong Bt's activity. High temperatures do not

encourage Bt's breakdown.

 

3. After the Bt spores are ingested, they grow and reproduce, producing

crystalline toxins. The crystalline toxins paralyze the digestive tract of

the larvae causing it to cease eating. Time of death can range anywhere from

12 hours to 5 days after ingestion. This depends on the amount of Bt

ingested, the size and variety of the larvae and variety of Bt used for

control. There are different strains or varieties of Bt available that have

been selected for the control of specific insects. For roses use Bt variety

kurstaki (BTK). This controls the European corn borer, tomato hornworms,

fruitworms, cabbageworm, cabbagelooper, spring and fall cankerworm, spruce

budworm, and other caterpillar-like larvae. Other Bt varieties like San

Diego (BTSD) controls early larvae of the Colorado potato beetle, Bt variety

tenebrionis coeopteran (BTT) has been developed for the control of the

Colorado Bean Beetle while in its larvae stage and Bt variety israelensis

(BTI) controls mosquitoes, black flies and fungus gnats.

 

4. Bt has gained well-earned popularity because of its distinct advantages

over other pesticides such as:

 

(i) Hazards to humans are negligible (avoid inhalation or contact with eyes

or open wounds).

 

(ii) Bt can be used right up until harvest on vegetables, this allows for a

longer-term control. There is no waiting period from time of application

before re-entering the field.

 

(iii) Ficial or non-target insects are not harmed.

 

(iv) Insects that ingest the Bt and later die from it are not dangerous to

birds or other animals that may feed the dead insect. (v) Not known to cause

injury to plants on which it has been applied and is not considered harmful

to the environment.

 

Other Pathogens: The only other possible pathogen I was able to find is the

Pheromone Mating Disruption. It lures the insect to it where they feed on a

Pathogen that affects their ability to mate, in turn reducing insect

population.

 

*Note: Relying on any one pesticide can lead to the build up of resistance

in the pest population. Use of other insecticides and cultural control

methods should be used to slow down or eliminate the possibility of

resistance developing.

 

 

HTH,

Pamela

 

 

On Behalf Of M. Gilbert

Monday, July 11, 2005 2:43 PM

 

what's eating my mint??

 

Hi everyone. I'm a reasonably new herb gardener, 3 years now. My garden's

looking great now, except for one thing. Some horrid mint muncher that has

remained unseen except for his damage. My spearmint is looking like swiss

cheese. No discolored leaves, just holes. I must have good mint too...

it's just about all been eaten. And whoever it is... they don't like other

herbs at all. Just mint.

 

I tried Googling " bugs eating mint " to not much success. Can someone

provide some guidance as to what it might be as well as a SAFE remedy? I

don't like using the commercial stuff at all.

 

Thanks -

 

Mo in Cleveland, Ohio

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Guest guest

Hi Pamela - it's interesting you should mention this. my boyfriend and I

share this place, and he did a little research and found the very same

thing, while I had not had much luck searching the web myself. We couldn't

find the BT, but we never thought to check Walmart! That was when I posted

here to O & H. I was closed minded and didn't listen to him, admittedly,

when he was describing it as organic; I kept thinking in my head it was a

pesticide. Nonetheless, I hadn't found/seen much info on it and chose the

route of posting here, so I am glad you posted this. I'll take a look at

this as well. I am glad to hear it's not as harmful as I thought.

 

Thank you for your good info!

 

Mo

On Behalf Of Pamela Gardner

Tuesday, July 12, 2005 1:18 PM

RE: what's eating my mint??

 

 

You've received some good ideas to help control your infestation, I

suspect

is some kind of worm or larvae eating your beloved mint.

 

I have another idea for you, only as reference, for consideration. I use

BT

for my leaf munchers, it's easy to apply, I can buy it at Walmart, and

it's

relatively safe to humans and the environment. Back in the 1980's, it was

recommended by Robert Rodale, one of the organic gardening pioneers.

Here

is some info I found about it for you:

 

http://www.aeha.ca/green-advice.htm

 

 

BT Bacillus Thuringiensis

 

1. Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) is a naturally occurring, soil borne

organism

that paralyzes and destroys the stomach cells of insects that consume it

especially larvae of flies and months. At present Bt is the only

" microbial

insecticide " in widespread use of insect control. Bacterial agents are

effective in controlling insects in the larva stage only. The larvae is

usually a caterpillar or worm and you must get it early at this stage both

to eliminate the pest and to avoid too much damage to the leaves. This

type

of Bt kills many leaf-eating caterpillars--including those that will

become

butterflies. If butterflies are desired, try to use Bt only on the foliage

of plants infested with a leaf or needle-eating larva. You'll usually find

the pests on the undersides of leaves and are usually the same color as

the

leaf so as not to attract predators. Therefore Bt should be applied to the

UNDERSIDES of leaves because Bt must be ingested to be effective.

 

2. Bt is broken down faster in sunlight. Application to the undersides of

the leaf surfaces will prolong Bt's activity. High temperatures do not

encourage Bt's breakdown.

 

3. After the Bt spores are ingested, they grow and reproduce, producing

crystalline toxins. The crystalline toxins paralyze the digestive tract of

the larvae causing it to cease eating. Time of death can range anywhere

from

12 hours to 5 days after ingestion. This depends on the amount of Bt

ingested, the size and variety of the larvae and variety of Bt used for

control. There are different strains or varieties of Bt available that

have

been selected for the control of specific insects. For roses use Bt

variety

kurstaki (BTK). This controls the European corn borer, tomato hornworms,

fruitworms, cabbageworm, cabbagelooper, spring and fall cankerworm, spruce

budworm, and other caterpillar-like larvae. Other Bt varieties like San

Diego (BTSD) controls early larvae of the Colorado potato beetle, Bt

variety

tenebrionis coeopteran (BTT) has been developed for the control of the

Colorado Bean Beetle while in its larvae stage and Bt variety israelensis

(BTI) controls mosquitoes, black flies and fungus gnats.

 

4. Bt has gained well-earned popularity because of its distinct advantages

over other pesticides such as:

 

(i) Hazards to humans are negligible (avoid inhalation or contact with

eyes

or open wounds).

 

(ii) Bt can be used right up until harvest on vegetables, this allows for

a

longer-term control. There is no waiting period from time of application

before re-entering the field.

 

(iii) Ficial or non-target insects are not harmed.

 

(iv) Insects that ingest the Bt and later die from it are not dangerous to

birds or other animals that may feed the dead insect. (v) Not known to

cause

injury to plants on which it has been applied and is not considered

harmful

to the environment.

 

Other Pathogens: The only other possible pathogen I was able to find is

the

Pheromone Mating Disruption. It lures the insect to it where they feed on

a

Pathogen that affects their ability to mate, in turn reducing insect

population.

 

*Note: Relying on any one pesticide can lead to the build up of resistance

in the pest population. Use of other insecticides and cultural control

methods should be used to slow down or eliminate the possibility of

resistance developing.

 

 

HTH,

Pamela

 

 

 

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Guest guest

You're welcome, Mo!

 

I have a bag of it that I got from the local feed store, labeled Dipel Dust.

I've also bought it at Walmart, can't remember the label on it, but it'll

list Bacillus Thuringiensis as the active ingredient, usually there is a

picture of a worm on the label :-)

 

I'd imagine any garden center would carry it, usually they have more

informed staff if you want to ask a knowledgeable assistant.

 

Also, I don't worry about getting it on the underside of the leaves, I just

dust the top if it's easier.

 

Good luck with your mint crop!!

 

Pamela

 

 

 

On Behalf Of M. Gilbert

Tuesday, July 12, 2005 4:19 PM

 

RE: what's eating my mint??

 

Hi Pamela - it's interesting you should mention this. my boyfriend and I

share this place, and he did a little research and found the very same

thing, while I had not had much luck searching the web myself. We couldn't

find the BT, but we never thought to check Walmart! That was when I posted

here to O & H. I was closed minded and didn't listen to him, admittedly,

when he was describing it as organic; I kept thinking in my head it was a

pesticide. Nonetheless, I hadn't found/seen much info on it and chose the

route of posting here, so I am glad you posted this. I'll take a look at

this as well. I am glad to hear it's not as harmful as I thought.

 

Thank you for your good info!

 

Mo

>> SNIP <<

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