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What Is Your Favorite Soap Making Process?

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is that safe or do you just keep your windows open?

 

Anyone else get a rotten headache while making soap? I'm talking about

even after it's traced.

 

If it's hot enough, park your car in the sun and set it on the floor of

your car. I did and boy, did my car ever smell nice for a long time !

My kids thought I was nuts - driving around with 4 full soap molds on teh

floor in teh back seat. I was able to make 12 pounds of soap and run errands

at the same time LOL

Paula ........in Michigan

Coming soon Farm Fresh Soaps & Candles

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Personally I like CP coapmaking, I have never tried HP bar soap but from what I

hear it can be more tricky. I dread making liquid soap, it is very finicky

trying to get it to just the right thickness.

 

Tracy Tappin (BC Canada)

Goat's Milk Skin Care http://www.goatmilkskincare.com

CAE Tested and CL Free LaMancha Dairy Goat's

 

 

 

 

 

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How much of a discount do you use ? I usually use a 40% discount and make it in

teh oven

Paula ........in Michigan

Coming soon Farm Fresh Soaps & Candles

 

 

-

Pittstown Soapworks, LLC

Thursday, February 10, 2005 9:29 AM

Re: What Is Your Favorite Soap Making Process?

 

 

 

Not to be a smarta$$, but I was trying to figure out how to answer this

without confusing everyone.......lol.

 

My favorite method is NRTLDWCPOP - doubt anyone else will answer with that one

- it's nearly room temperature lightly discounted water cold process oven

process.

 

The reasons:

nearly room temp - because I'm impatient

lightly discounted water - because I'm impatient

cold process - because I like it

oven process - because I'm impatient

 

: )

Cindy

 

-

 

 

To all the soapers on the list .. what is your favorite soap making

process (for example, Cold Process a.k.a. CP, Hot Process a.k.a. HP, Hot

Process Oven Process a.k.a. HPOP, etc ....) and why?

 

*Smile*

Chris (list mom)

http://www.alittleolfactory.com

 

 

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Also include what you discount.... for instance, in DWCP you discount by

making a lye concentration 40% Lye concentrate would be 40% lye and 60%

water for the lyewater.

If you are discounting water off of a lye calculator (for instance

MMSage)... what water amount are you discounting off of?

Gosh, hope I wrote that out right! It sounds confusing, but its

important to know what method you are discounting by :-)

Shelley

 

Paula Coon wrote:

 

>How much of a discount do you use ? I usually use a 40% discount and make it in

teh oven

>Paula ........in Michigan

>Coming soon Farm Fresh Soaps & Candles

>

>

>

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Does it happen to you with just one fragrance? EO's or FO's? I've gotten

headaches, but mainly from EO overload (not a good thing!)

Shelley

M. Gilbert wrote:

 

>is that safe or do you just keep your windows open?

>

>Anyone else get a rotten headache while making soap? I'm talking about

>even after it's traced.

>

>

>

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I only use a " light " discount - I take the lower end of the amount of water

recommended on a lye calc and then take about 10-20% off of that amount.

 

Cindy

 

 

-

 

 

How much of a discount do you use ? I usually use a 40% discount and make it

in teh oven

Paula ........in Michigan

Coming soon Farm Fresh Soaps & Candles

 

 

-

 

My favorite method is NRTLDWCPOP - doubt anyone else will answer with that

one - it's nearly room temperature lightly discounted water cold process oven

process.

 

The reasons:

nearly room temp - because I'm impatient

lightly discounted water - because I'm impatient

cold process - because I like it

oven process - because I'm impatient

 

: )

Cindy

 

 

 

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hmmm I'll check on that, but even doing M & P without EOs or FOs I get the

headache. I just refer to it as " soap smell " , the hot soap. I have to

evacuate periodically. Big room, windows open when it's not like -20

degrees outside. ;-)

 

- Michelle

 

 

 

Shelley [bbubbles]

Does it happen to you with just one fragrance? EO's or FO's? I've gotten

headaches, but mainly from EO overload (not a good thing!)

Shelley

M. Gilbert wrote:

 

>is that safe or do you just keep your windows open?

>

>Anyone else get a rotten headache while making soap? I'm talking about

>even after it's traced.

 

<<excess junk snipped from bottom by moderator for sake of sane digest

reading>>

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Do you do lye soap? I think its a different smell than M & P (I've only

done lye soap) It could be one of the chemicals in M & P

Shelley

M. Gilbert wrote:

 

>hmmm I'll check on that, but even doing M & P without EOs or FOs I get the

>headache. I just refer to it as " soap smell " , the hot soap. I have to

>evacuate periodically. Big room, windows open when it's not like -20

>degrees outside. ;-)

>

>- Michelle

>

>

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I am new to lye soap, but come to think of it, you're right. It's worse

with M & P. Anyone else? Is there an ingredient to avoid? Thanks... hadn't

consciously made the link.

 

P.S. Sorry for the slop at bottom of earlier messages; neglected to think

of the digest readers. WIll remind self to be more tidy :-)

 

- M

Shelley [bbubbles]

Thursday, February 10, 2005 12:43 PM

Re: What Is Your Favorite Soap Making Process?

 

 

Do you do lye soap? I think its a different smell than M & P (I've only

done lye soap) It could be one of the chemicals in M & P

Shelley

M. Gilbert wrote:

 

>hmmm I'll check on that, but even doing M & P without EOs or FOs I get the

>headache. I just refer to it as " soap smell " , the hot soap. I have to

>evacuate periodically. Big room, windows open when it's not like -20

>degrees outside. ;-)

>

>- Michelle

>

>

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I like CP but hadn't tried HP until this week...still not real sure if it turned

out.

How do you figure the discounted water???

 

Juliet

-

Shelley

Wednesday, February 09, 2005 7:30 PM

Re: What Is Your Favorite Soap Making Process?

 

 

DWCP (discounted water cold process) because it speeds up the cure time.

I've done all the other methods, and this is the one I stick with.

Shelley

 

Christine Ziegler wrote:

 

> To all the soapers on the list .. what is your favorite soap making

> process (for example, Cold Process a.k.a. CP, Hot Process a.k.a. HP, Hot

> Process Oven Process a.k.a. HPOP, etc ....) and why?

>

> *Smile*

> Chris (list mom)

> http://www.alittleolfactory.com

 

 

 

 

Step By Step Instructions On Making Rose Petal Preserves:

http://www.av-at.com/stuff/rosejam.html

 

To adjust your group settings (i.e. go no mail) see the following link:

/join

 

 

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I go by lye concentration, and usually do a 30-35% lye concentration

unless I'm dealing with castille, where I go up to 40% if I'm using a

fragrance that can handle the higher lye amount.

You'll know if your HP turned out if you don't get the tingle.... it is

one method that you shouldn't discount water with until you absolutely

know how your recipe reacts (some oils really get hot in this method,

and too little water makes for a caustic soap or a volcano if you have

your oils/lyewater too hot when mixing :-)

Shelley

bartclan wrote:

 

>I like CP but hadn't tried HP until this week...still not real sure if it

turned out.

>How do you figure the discounted water???

>

>

>

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OOPS sorry, I forgot to trim that last post!

 

Shelly,

My HP just came out really soft. It has been out of the mold for a few days and

is still soft. So far I think CP is just much easier.

Could someone explain HP in the mold? I did mine in the crock pot.

 

Juliet

 

 

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Yep, and it cures faster, too. The higher the water discount, the faster the

trace.

 

Cindy

 

-

 

 

I thought of one more question...does water discounting cause it to trace

faster or anything?

 

J

 

 

 

 

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I struggled with the crock pot HP myself. It was soft and just plain looked

bizarre. I made the mistake of stirring too much. It got what looked like

cooked soap little rice-sized pieces in it that never cooked out. It is

usable, and passed the tongue test, but when I took it out of the molds,

it's... how do I describe... too fluffy and not dense; too far gone or

something in a way by the time I put it in the molds, swirls of air and

swirls of soap I guess?? uggggleeeeeee!!! The boilover was certainly a fun

experience.

 

Novice words here but I hope someone understands. I am a CPer henceforth

but anxious to try oven.

 

- Michelle/Cleveland

 

 

bartclan [bartclan]

Thursday, February 10, 2005 1:13 PM

Re: What Is Your Favorite Soap Making Process?

 

 

OOPS sorry, I forgot to trim that last post!

 

Shelly,

My HP just came out really soft. It has been out of the mold for a few

days and is still soft. So far I think CP is just much easier.

Could someone explain HP in the mold? I did mine in the crock pot.

 

Juliet

 

 

 

 

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Thanks Paula. Maybe it IS just with M & P for me, some icky in it, and I'm

just associating it with all soap in general.

 

- Michelle

Paula Coon [paulacoon]

Thursday, February 10, 2005 1:20 PM

Re: What Is Your Favorite Soap Making Process?

 

 

never had a problem with head aches and the windows are closed. Mixing the

lye and the water gives off fumes. 'Baking' the soap doesn't, no matter if

you bake it in the oven or in a hot car.

Paula ........in Michigan

Coming soon Farm Fresh Soaps & Candles

 

 

 

is that safe or do you just keep your windows open?

 

Anyone else get a rotten headache while making soap? I'm talking about

even after it's traced.

 

 

 

 

 

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I use the calc at www.herbalsoapsbyrj.com you put in the water discount you

want and the amount of your oils and the size batch you want and it figures

everything out for you. I usually water discount at 40% and superfat at 5%.

Paula ........in Michigan

Coming soon Farm Fresh Soaps & Candles

 

 

 

 

Also include what you discount.... for instance, in DWCP you discount by

making a lye concentration 40% Lye concentrate would be 40% lye and 60%

water for the lyewater.

If you are discounting water off of a lye calculator (for instance

MMSage)... what water amount are you discounting off of?

Gosh, hope I wrote that out right! It sounds confusing, but its

important to know what method you are discounting by :-)

Shelley

 

Paula Coon wrote:

 

>How much of a discount do you use ? I usually use a 40% discount and make it

in teh oven

>Paula ........in Michigan

>Coming soon Farm Fresh Soaps & Candles

>

>

>

 

 

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It really depends upon the oils you use... some oils people use for cp

feel " harder " when they are used cp vs hp. eg: shortening.... in cp it

seems alot harder than with hp. Water content of your recipe will change

the hardness as well, although reducing water for new recipes or people

new to the process isn't a good thing. HP in the mold is often refered

to as CPOP (cold process oven process), some people have refered to

making their soaps in their vans, trunks etc.... basically you make your

cp soap as usual, then put into a mold and force an extended gel stage

by using the oven on the lowest setting (140 d F or lower if possible)

for about 1 hr and then turn the oven off and leave the soap overnight.

HTH

Shelley

bartclan wrote:

 

>OOPS sorry, I forgot to trim that last post!

>

>Shelly,

>My HP just came out really soft. It has been out of the mold for a few days

and is still soft. So far I think CP is just much easier.

>Could someone explain HP in the mold? I did mine in the crock pot.

>

>Juliet

>

>

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This is all so helpful!

How much does this process shorten the curing time? Or does it eliminate it all

together?

Juliet

 

 

. basically you make your

cp soap as usual, then put into a mold and force an extended gel stage

by using the oven on the lowest setting (140 d F or lower if possible)

for about 1 hr and then turn the oven off and leave the soap overnight.

HTH

Shelley

 

 

 

 

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it's ready to use the next day

Paula ........in Michigan

Coming soon Farm Fresh Soaps & Candles

 

 

 

 

 

This is all so helpful!

How much does this process shorten the curing time? Or does it eliminate it

all together?

Juliet

 

 

. basically you make your

cp soap as usual, then put into a mold and force an extended gel stage

by using the oven on the lowest setting (140 d F or lower if possible)

for about 1 hr and then turn the oven off and leave the soap overnight.

HTH

Shelley

 

 

 

 

 

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I set the oven at 175 and leave the soap in for 1.5 - 2 hours before turning the

oven off.

Paula ........in Michigan

Coming soon Farm Fresh Soaps & Candles

 

basically you make your

cp soap as usual, then put into a mold and force an extended gel stage

by using the oven on the lowest setting (140 d F or lower if possible)

for about 1 hr and then turn the oven off and leave the soap overnight.

HTH

Shelley

bartclan wrote:

 

>OOPS sorry, I forgot to trim that last post!

>

>Shelly,

>My HP just came out really soft. It has been out of the mold for a few days

and is still soft. So far I think CP is just much easier.

>Could someone explain HP in the mold? I did mine in the crock pot.

>

>Juliet

>

 

 

 

 

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Dear M -

 

I try to stay away from SLS (Sodium Laureth Sulfate) and Sodium Laureth

Sulfate (SLES), altho they are in many things. Also Propylene Glycol USP,

TEA Lauryl Sulfate and Sodium Laureth Sulfate. Any of these can be found

in M & P soap, depending on the formulation. There are some folks whose

products do not contain these chemicals - Brambleberry, Snowdrift Farm and

Oregon Trails Soaps look good, based on the ingredients they list. BB has

one made with organic oils (not completely organic tho...).

 

I tried bases from MMS and liked the soaps, generally (honey and Shea being

my faves), but they use a lot of chemicals in the bases that I am interested

in staying away from, specifically - Propylene Glycol USP, TEA Lauryl

Sulfate and Sodium Laureth Sulfate.

 

Here are a few links I like to check out what's in common products and

evaluate ingredient toxicology:

Household Products Database

http://householdproducts.nlm.nih.gov/

 

National Library of Medicine Specialized Information Services

http://sis.nlm.nih.gov/Tox/ToxMain.html

 

Toxic Cosmetics Ingredients List

http://www.alkalizeforhealth.net/Ltoxiccosmetics.htm#58

 

 

 

Ivy

 

(not affiliated with any of the companies mentioned - just a customer...)

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wow! What an interesting piece of info; thank you. I am a person who

doesn't like to use SLS in my hair products; that's where I first discovered

it. I am going to inspect any M & P carefully from now on. Thanks so much.

Thanks also for sources.

 

- M in C

Ivy Fasko [isf]

Thursday, February 10, 2005 4:23 PM

Re: What Is Your Favorite Soap Making Process?

 

 

 

Dear M -

 

I try to stay away from SLS (Sodium Laureth Sulfate) and Sodium Laureth

Sulfate (SLES), altho they are in many things. Also Propylene Glycol USP,

TEA Lauryl Sulfate and Sodium Laureth Sulfate. Any of these can be found

in M & P soap, depending on the formulation. There are some folks whose

products do not contain these chemicals - Brambleberry, Snowdrift Farm

and

Oregon Trails Soaps look good, based on the ingredients they list. BB has

one made with organic oils (not completely organic tho...).

 

I tried bases from MMS and liked the soaps, generally (honey and Shea

being

my faves), but they use a lot of chemicals in the bases that I am

interested

in staying away from, specifically - Propylene Glycol USP, TEA Lauryl

Sulfate and Sodium Laureth Sulfate.

 

Here are a few links I like to check out what's in common products and

evaluate ingredient toxicology:

Household Products Database

http://householdproducts.nlm.nih.gov/

 

National Library of Medicine Specialized Information Services

http://sis.nlm.nih.gov/Tox/ToxMain.html

 

Toxic Cosmetics Ingredients List

http://www.alkalizeforhealth.net/Ltoxiccosmetics.htm#58

 

 

 

Ivy

 

(not affiliated with any of the companies mentioned - just a customer...)

 

 

 

 

 

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Thank you Mary and Nerys for the help with rebatching soap. I haven't had a

chance yet to try it, but I think it will help a lot to read over the web

site you sent.

Thanks,

Sandra

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I ended up having too many bizarre batches to continue this method (oily

soap, like glycerin coming out of it for the first day or so, separated

batches, etc).... I find that DCWP is my favorite, regular CPHP for HP

or OHP for large batches of HP soap... The easiest HP method is OHP

(IMHO) :-)

Shelley

 

bartclan wrote:

 

>This is all so helpful!

>How much does this process shorten the curing time? Or does it eliminate it

all together?

>Juliet

>

>

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