Guest guest Posted September 24, 2004 Report Share Posted September 24, 2004 For those of you beginning to enjoy Autumn foliage ... (As I learned last year, the leaves on SOME trees change here around the end of December *lol*) *Smile* Chris (list mom) Last Chance In 2004 For Sale Pricing On Foamer Bottles and Square Window Lid Tins This Sale Ends When The Month Of September Ends! <http://www.alittleolfactory.com> http://www.alittleolfactory.com ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Preserve Leaves with Glycerin Contact: Diane Relf, Extension Specialist, Environmental Horticulture Posted November 1997 http://www.ext.vt.edu/departments/envirohort/factsheets3/general/AUG87PR 4.HTML <http://www.ext.vt.edu/images/tealbar.gif> Foliage for use in winter arrangements may be preserved now by using glycerin. The leaves of many plants make interesting arrangements even without flowers particularly when combined with seed heads and cones. The procedure is simple. All you need to do is stand the stems or leaves in a mixture of one part glycerin and two parts water. Midsummer is a good time to get started on this project because the leaves are in an active stage of growth and will absorb the glycerin rapidly. Absorption usually takes about two or three weeks. Many kinds of leaves can be preserved by the glycerin process. Leaves from trees such as beech, birch, peach, plum, poplar are satisfactory. Of the shrubs try barberry, forsythia, blueberry, privet, rhododendron and rose. The leaves of many perennial herbaceous plants can be used including aspidistra, canna, coral bells, geraniums, iris, ivy and lily-of-the-valley. If you are unsure of preserving the leaves of a certain plant, first test them while they are in the green stage. Use leaves which will exhibit a pleasing autumn color or those plants which have the structure or texture you plan to emphasize in the arrangement. Prepare a mixture of glycerin and test possible selections by letting the green leaves absorb the solution. If the stems readily uptake the glycerin while green, success should also be obtainable on foliage cut in the fall. Select only perfect specimens and wash the foliage with water to remove dirt or spray residue. If the material has woody stems, cut off the last inch with a sloping cut before starting the treatment. Stand the stems or leaves upright in a jar of the glycerin solution. The leaves of small herbaceous plant material such as ivy and lily-of-the-valley, can be submerged in a half and half glycerin-water solution. Some leaves will change color as the solution is absorbed. Allow the stems to remain in the solution until the color is uniform to the edge of the leaf. This indicates that the absorption is complete. Good air circulation and warm weather will speed up the absorption. Wipe the leaves occasionally with a cloth dampened with the solution. This will help prevent drying before the glycerin reaches the edge of the leaves. The leaves may wilt if left in the solution too long. If this occurs, wipe them off and hang upside down to dry. The effect of the glycerin treatment on the color of the dried foliage depends on the plant and its relative maturity. For good fall color, leaves should be collected as they approach their peak color. Carefully observe the gradual change in the leaves for proper timing. Waiting too long will result in a dropping of the leaves. Treatment at different stages of maturity can result in different colors. Barberry leaves gathered in the spring will turn red, those gathered in late summer and fall will turn brown. Beech, crabapple, plum and forsythia retain their natural color if treated early in the season otherwise a brown shade will also occur. With some leaves such as flowering plum, a few drops of red food coloring added to the solution will give a glossy red color. Leaves preserved by glycerin should be stored in boxes to protect them from damage and dirt until use. Before storage, wipe the leaves carefully with a soft cloth to remove excess moisture. Check the boxes frequently during the first few weeks, to be sure there is no leakage from the leaves which might cause mold. (Prepared by Wesley Judkins, Extension Horticulturist, Department of Horticulture, Virginia Tech, Blacksburg, VA 24061-0327) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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