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using hydrosols instead of water in CP

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Has anyone ever used hydrosols instead of water in making CP soap? I am trying

an experiment using lavender hydrosol instead of my usual distilled water. When

I added the lye, it changed the lye solution to an orange-y color, rather than

clearing up, as it usually does. I guess I was expecting it to change back to

the same color as the hydrosol, but it didn't, and there are little brown

" floaties " in it.....

 

Just curious what your thoughts on this are.

 

Thanks,

Cindy

Pittstown Soapworks

www.pittstownsoapworks.com

 

 

 

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Pittstown Soapworks, LLC [guinness97]

 

 

 

> Has anyone ever used hydrosols instead of water in making CP soap?

 

 

 

I have made soap with hydrosol instead of water ...

 

 

> I am trying an experiment using lavender hydrosol instead of my usual

distilled water. When I added the lye, it changed the lye

> solution to an orange-y color, rather than clearing up, as it usually

does. I guess I was expecting it to change back to

> the same color as the hydrosol,

 

Wow! I hadn't had that happen. Only thing I've had turn orange like that

was milk ...

 

> but it didn't, and there are little brown " floaties " in it.....

 

Hadn't had that happen either?!? Were there floaty things in it before

you made a lye water solution from it? :(

 

> Just curious what your thoughts on this are.

 

I'm stumped!

 

> Thanks,

> Cindy

> Pittstown Soapworks

> www.pittstownsoapworks.com

 

*Smile*

Chris (list mom)

http://www.alittleolfactory.com

 

 

 

 

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Chris (and all other interested parties),

 

Actually, since I also used crushed lavender buds, the floaties didn't matter -

they blended right in. The floaties were not detectable before I added the lye.

Then, all of a sudden, after adding lye, it turned orange and had little brown

floaties. After mixing the lye solution to the oils, however, the color did

turn back to " normal " and all is well.

 

I actually did 2 experiments - CP and CPOP (which I've been dying to attempt) -

I poured into 3 different type of vertical molds, which is my " usual " manner -

to be unmolded tonight (24 hours) and this will cure for 3-4 weeks. I also took

some of it and poured into a wooden mold and proceeded with my CPOP experiment -

my first time for this process. This morning, I am pleased to announce that it

held up very well with THAT process, as well.

 

I do not yet know how the lather is, but when I was cleaning up, the residue in

the pots " foamed " exactly the same way it does when I use water in the recipe.

So.....I have to deduce that the bars, when ready to use, will be just as nice

as they usually are.

 

I have to say that my report card for using hydrosols is B+. The reason for B+

and not an A--simply because of the cost. Hydrosols are much more expensive

than water. Until someone can prove to me that there is either an aesthetic or

*medical* benefit to using a hydrosol over water, then cost has to remain the

deciding factor.

 

I hope that by my posting my own experimentation and findings I've helped

someone somewhere.

 

Cindy

Pittstown Soapworks

www.pittstownsoapworks.com

 

-

 

 

> I am trying an experiment using lavender hydrosol instead of my usual

distilled water. When I added the lye, it changed the lye solution to an

orange-y color, rather than clearing up, as it usually does. I guess I was

expecting it to change back to the same color as the hydrosol,

 

Wow! I hadn't had that happen. Only thing I've had turn orange like that

was milk ...

 

> but it didn't, and there are little brown " floaties " in it.....

 

Hadn't had that happen either?!? Were there floaty things in it before

you made a lye water solution from it? :(

 

 

 

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Cindy,

When I use anything other than water as the liquid in my soap (hydrosol,

aloe juice, tea etc.), what I do is add half water with lye, and then at

trace I add the rest of the liquid, whatever that may be. All I can think

is that the heat of the lye reaction was too much for the hydrosol? Just a

guess, but try this other way next time and see if it fixes it.

 

Hope this helps!

Debbie

deb

High on Life Soap ~ uplifting!

http://www.debrasrhapsody.com/rhapsody/soaps.php#dr-high_on_life_soap

-

" Pittstown Soapworks, LLC " <guinness97

 

Friday, July 02, 2004 8:41 AM

Re: using hydrosols instead of water in CP

 

 

> Chris (and all other interested parties),

>

> Actually, since I also used crushed lavender buds, the floaties didn't

matter - they blended right in. The floaties were not detectable before I

added the lye. Then, all of a sudden, after adding lye, it turned orange

and had little brown floaties. After mixing the lye solution to the oils,

however, the color did turn back to " normal " and all is well.

>

> I actually did 2 experiments - CP and CPOP (which I've been dying to

attempt) - I poured into 3 different type of vertical molds, which is my

" usual " manner - to be unmolded tonight (24 hours) and this will cure for

3-4 weeks. I also took some of it and poured into a wooden mold and

proceeded with my CPOP experiment - my first time for this process. This

morning, I am pleased to announce that it held up very well with THAT

process, as well.

>

> I do not yet know how the lather is, but when I was cleaning up, the

residue in the pots " foamed " exactly the same way it does when I use water

in the recipe. So.....I have to deduce that the bars, when ready to use,

will be just as nice as they usually are.

>

> I have to say that my report card for using hydrosols is B+. The reason

for B+ and not an A--simply because of the cost. Hydrosols are much more

expensive than water. Until someone can prove to me that there is either an

aesthetic or *medical* benefit to using a hydrosol over water, then cost has

to remain the deciding factor.

>

> I hope that by my posting my own experimentation and findings I've helped

someone somewhere.

>

> Cindy

> Pittstown Soapworks

> www.pittstownsoapworks.com

>

> -

>

>

> > I am trying an experiment using lavender hydrosol instead of my usual

> distilled water. When I added the lye, it changed the lye solution to

an orange-y color, rather than clearing up, as it usually does. I guess I

was expecting it to change back to the same color as the hydrosol,

>

> Wow! I hadn't had that happen. Only thing I've had turn orange like that

> was milk ...

>

> > but it didn't, and there are little brown " floaties " in it.....

>

> Hadn't had that happen either?!? Were there floaty things in it before

> you made a lye water solution from it? :(

>

>

>

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I've used Lavender tea instead of water and the colour was bright orange and my

soap is a lovely caramel colour - pity, the lavender tea was a lovely rosey

purple!

I think using hydrosols in soap is a waste of money because I'm sure the

properties don't carry through

regards

Ann - Scotland

 

Actually, since I also used crushed lavender buds, the floaties didn't matter -

they blended right in. The floaties were not detectable before I added the lye.

Then, all of a sudden, after adding lye, it turned orange and had little brown

floaties. After mixing the lye solution to the oils, however, the color did

turn back to " normal " and all is well.

 

 

 

 

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Hiya Cindy,

 

Glad that your soap came out all good :-D

 

Where I really like to use hydrosol in place of distilled water is when

diluting my liquid soap paste into shower gel and liquid soap! There I

can find all the justification in the world to use it ;)

 

Happy Independence Day Weekend folks!

 

*Smile*

Chris (list mom)

 

http://www.alittleolfactory.com

 

 

 

 

Pittstown Soapworks, LLC [guinness97]

 

Chris (and all other interested parties),

 

Actually, since I also used crushed lavender buds, the floaties didn't

matter - they blended right in. The floaties were not detectable before

I added the lye. Then, all of a sudden, after adding lye, it turned

orange and had little brown floaties. After mixing the lye solution to

the oils, however, the color did turn back to " normal " and all is well.

 

I actually did 2 experiments - CP and CPOP (which I've been dying to

attempt) - I poured into 3 different type of vertical molds, which is my

" usual " manner - to be unmolded tonight (24 hours) and this will cure

for 3-4 weeks. I also took some of it and poured into a wooden mold and

proceeded with my CPOP experiment - my first time for this process.

This morning, I am pleased to announce that it held up very well with

THAT process, as well.

 

I do not yet know how the lather is, but when I was cleaning up, the

residue in the pots " foamed " exactly the same way it does when I use

water in the recipe. So.....I have to deduce that the bars, when ready

to use, will be just as nice as they usually are.

 

I have to say that my report card for using hydrosols is B+. The reason

for B+ and not an A--simply because of the cost. Hydrosols are much

more expensive than water. Until someone can prove to me that there is

either an aesthetic or *medical* benefit to using a hydrosol over water,

then cost has to remain the deciding factor.

 

I hope that by my posting my own experimentation and findings I've

helped someone somewhere.

 

Cindy

Pittstown Soapworks

www.pittstownsoapworks.com

 

 

 

 

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Chris!

 

Now how did you know what my next project is? Do you have a spy in my workshop?

lol

 

I, too, am glad it worked out. I hate it when I experiment with not only 1 but

2 new things and then double the batch on top of it all and it doesn't work!

That would really suck (am I allowed to say that? lol - too late)!!!

 

Cindy

 

-

 

 

Where I really like to use hydrosol in place of distilled water is when

diluting my liquid soap paste into shower gel and liquid soap! There I

can find all the justification in the world to use it ;)

 

 

 

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Hello Ann, Across that BIG BIG pond! :-D

 

That's why using hydrosols to dilute liquid soap is so good, cause you

do actually get the properties of the hydrosol to come though, since its

just watering down the pre-made paste (concentrate).

 

Yes, the benefits and value of using it in bar soap can be a debatable

issue. But as a note - I have used Rose hydrosol to make rose soap, and

I find that the rose soap with rose hydrosol comes out better than the

rose soap made with just water (and of course I use some Rose oil too)

....

 

So, it seems that lavender (tea or hydrosol) and lye make orange, huh?

Hadn't used lavender hydrosol or tea in the lye water phase to date,

just lavender hydrosol for rebatching.

 

*Smile*

Chris (list mom)

 

http://www.alittleolfactory.com

 

 

 

 

Ann Thorpe [Ann]

 

 

I've used Lavender tea instead of water and the colour was bright orange

and my soap is a lovely caramel colour - pity, the lavender tea was a

lovely rosey purple!

I think using hydrosols in soap is a waste of money because I'm sure the

properties don't carry through

regards

Ann - Scotland

 

 

 

 

 

 

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HI Chris

I'm not too good at rebatching and not yet tried my hand at liquid soap. I'll

get round to it one day no doubt!

Your rose soap sounds wonderful, I'll try it one day, just for me!!

I use the Lavender infusion as part of the lye water in a recipe for Lavender,

oats and honey. It turns out a lovely dark caramel colour and looks good enough

to eat! - trouble is they'll come and cart me away if I start frothing at the

mouth :))

take care

Ann - Scotland

Hello Ann, Across that BIG BIG pond! :-D

 

That's why using hydrosols to dilute liquid soap is so good, cause you

do actually get the properties of the hydrosol to come though, since its

just watering down the pre-made paste (concentrate).

 

Yes, the benefits and value of using it in bar soap can be a debatable

issue. But as a note - I have used Rose hydrosol to make rose soap, and

I find that the rose soap with rose hydrosol comes out better than the

rose soap made with just water (and of course I use some Rose oil too)

...

 

So, it seems that lavender (tea or hydrosol) and lye make orange, huh?

Hadn't used lavender hydrosol or tea in the lye water phase to date,

just lavender hydrosol for rebatching.

 

 

 

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