TDP/heat lamps - post script

[Guest guest]

In fixing the heat-lamps type devices, the main trick I learned,

aside from using ceramic sockets (as Pete Theisen observed), was to

keep the on/off switch away from the socket and bulb. That is, use a

bulb socket without a built-in switch, and splice a switch into the

power cable, away from the heat.

 

The rotary switched built into the top of the socket assembly

deteriorates rapidly with the heat. The torque of trying to turn a

stagnant rotary switch then gets transfered into the plastic housing

materials, which easily distort when softened by the heat, resulting

in damage extending beyond the bulb socket itself.

 

If you prefer the infrared (normal) heat lamp, look for a model that

has the on/off switch relatively isolated from the lamp assembly.