Cure For All Diseases (excerpt 2) - Building A Zapper

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Hulda Clake's

 

Cure For All Diseases (excerpt 2)

 

Building A Zapper

 

Being able to kill your bacteria and other invaders with electricity

becomes much more of a panacea when you can do it all in three 7

minute sessions. No need to single out specific frequencies or to

sweep through a range of frequencies one KHz at a time. No matter what

frequency it is set at (within reason), it kills large and small

invaders: flukes, roundworms, mites, bacteria, viruses and fungi. It

kills them all at once, in 7 min­utes, even at 5 volts.

 

How does it work? I suppose that a positive voltage applied anywhere

on the body attracts negatively charged things such as bacteria.

Perhaps the battery voltage tugs at them, pulling them out of their

locations in the cell doorways (called conductance channels). But

doorways can be negatively charged too. Does the voltage tug at them

so they disgorge any bacteria stuck in them? How would the positive

voltage act to kill a large parasite like a fluke? None of these

questions can be answered yet.

 

Other fascinating possibilities are that the intermittent posi­tive

voltage interferes with electron flow in some key metabolic route, or

straightens out the ATP molecule disallowing its breakdown. Such

biological questions could be answered by studying the effects of

positive frequencies on bacteria in a lab.

 

The most important question, of course, is whether there is a harmful

effect on you. I have seen no effects on blood pressure, mental

alertness, or body temperatures. It has never produced pain, although

it has often stopped pain instantly. This does not prove its safety.

Even knowing that the voltage comes from a small 9 volt battery does

not prove safety, although it is reas­suring. The clotting of red

blood cells, platelet aggregation and functions that depend on surface

charges on cells need to be in­vestigated. But not before you can use

it. Your safety lies in the short period of exposure that is

necessary. Viruses and bacteria [NCW17] disappear in 3 minutes;

tapeworm stages, flukes, roundworms in 5; and mites in 7. One need not

go beyond this time, although no bad effects have been seen at any

length of treatment.

 

The first seven minute zapping is followed by an intermis­sion,

lasting 20 to 30 minutes. During this time, bacteria and viruses are

released from the dying parasites and start to invade you instead.

 

The second seven minute session is intended to kill these newly

released viruses and bacteria. If you omit it, you could catch a cold,

sore throat or something else immediately. Again, viruses are released

from the dying bacteria. The third session kills the last viruses

released.

 

Do Not Zap If You Are Pregnant

 

Or Wearing A Pacemaker.

 

These situations have not been explored yet. Don't do these

experiments yourself. Children as young as 8 months have been zapped

with no noticeable ill effects. For them, you should weigh the

possible benefits against the unknown risks.

 

That is all there is to it. Almost all. The zapping current does not

reach deep into the eyeball or testicle or bowel con­tents. It does

not reach into your gallstones, or into your living cells where Herpes

virus lies latent or Candida fungus extends its fingers. But by

zapping 3 times a day for a week or more you can deplete these

populations, too, often to zero.

Killing The Surviving Pathogens

 

The interior of gallstones may house parasites inaccessible to the

zapping. Eliminate this source of reinfection by flushing them out

with liver cleanses (page 285).

 

[NCW18] Although the center of the bowel contents is often unaf­fected

by electric current, which lets bowel bacteria like Shigella,

Escherichia coli (E. coli) and parasite stages survive, sometimes it

is nearly all sterilized by zapping. This results in considerable

shrinkage of the bowel movement. Eliminate re­maining parasites and

bacteria with a single dose (2 tsp.) of Black Walnut Hull Tincture,

Extra Strength (see page 279).

 

There is no way of distinguishing between " good " and " bad " bacteria

with either of these methods. However even good bacteria are bad if

they come through the intestinal wall, so zapping targets mostly " bad "

bacteria. The good news is that perfect bowel habits often result in a

few days. Evidently, the good bacteria are benefited by killing the

invasive ones. Home­made yogurt and buttermilk (see Recipes) are

especially good at recolonizing the bowel. But it does not seem wise

to culture yourself with special commercial preparations and risk

getting parasite stages again when you can become normal so soon

anyway. If you do decide to take some acidophilus bacteria to

replenish your intestinal flora make sure you test for parasites like

Eurytrema first.

 

When a large number of parasites, bacteria and viruses are killed, it

can leave you fatigued. Try to give yourself a low-stress day after

your initial zapping. But there are no significant side effects. I

believe this is due to the second and third zapping which mops up

bacteria and viruses that would otherwise be able to go on a feeding

frenzy with so much dead prey available.

 

To build your zapper you may take this list of components to any

electronics store (Radio Shack part numbers are given for convenience).

Zapper Parts List

 

Item

 

Radio Shack Catalog Number

 

large shoe box

 

 

9 volt battery

 

[NCW19] 9 volt battery clips

 

270-325 (set of 5, you need 1)

 

On-Off toggle switch

 

 

275-624A micro mini toggle switch

 

1 KW resistor

 

 

271-1321 (set of 5, you need 2)

 

3.9 KW resistor

 

 

271-1123 (set of 2, you need 2)

 

low-current red LED

 

 

276-044 or 276-041 or 276-045

 

..0047 uF capacitor

 

 

272-130 (set of 2, you need 1)

 

..01 uF capacitor

 

 

272-1065 (set of 2, you need 1)

 

555 CMOS timer chip

 

 

276-1723 (set of 2, you need 1)

 

8 pin wire-wrapping socket for the chip

 

 

276-1988 (set of 2, you need 1) Note: Radio Shack is discontinuing all

wire wrap sockets. Find another parts store or use 276-1995 (but the

legs are much shorter and harder to attach clips to).

 

short (12 " ) alligator clip leads

 

any electronics shop, get 6

 

Microclip test jumpers

 

278-017 (you need 2 packages of 2)

 

2 bolts, about 1/8 " diameter, 2 " long, with 4 nuts and 4 washers

 

 

hardware store

 

2 copper pipes, ¾ " diameter, 4 " long

 

hardware store

 

sharp knife, pin, long-nose pliers

 

 

Hints for absolute novices: Don't let unusual vocabulary deter you. A

" lead " is just a piece of wire used to make connec­tions. When you

remove a component from its package, label it with a piece of tape. A

serrated kitchen knife works best as does a large safety pin. Practice

using the microclips. If the metal ends are L-shaped bend them into a

U with the long-nose pliers so they grab better. Chips and chip

holders are very fragile. It is wise to purchase an extra of each in

case you break the connec­tions.

 

(…)

 

Give this to an electronics person or make it yourself in a shoebox by

using the following instructions.

 

Fig. 3 Zapper schematic.

[NCW20] Assembling The Zapper

 

1. You will be using the lid of the shoe box to mount the

components. Save the box to enclose the finished project.

 

2. Pierce two holes near the ends of the lid. Enlarge the holes

with a pen or pencil until the bolts would fit through. Mount the

bolts on the outside about half way through the holes so there is a

washer and nut holding it in place on both sides. Tighten. Label one

hole " grounding bolt " on the inside and outside.

 

3. Mount the 555 chip in the wire wrap socket. Find the " top end "

of the chip by searching the outside surface carefully for a

cookie-shaped bite or hole taken out of it. Align the chip with the

socket and very gently squeeze the pins of the chip into the socket

until they click in place.

 

4. Make 8 pinholes to fit the wire wrap socket. Enlarge them

slightly with a sharp pencil. Mount it on the outside. Write in the

numbers of the pins (connections) on both the out­side and inside,

starting with number one to the left of the " cookie bite " as seen from

outside. After number 4, cross over to number 5 and continue. Number 8

will be across from number 1.

 

5. Pierce two holes ½ inch apart very near to pins 5, 6, 7, and

8. They should be less than 1/8 inch away. (Or, one end of each

component can share a hole with the 555 chip.) Mount the .01 uF

ca­[NCW21] pacitor near pin 5 on the outside. On the inside connect

pin 5 to one end of this capacitor by simply twisting them together.

Loop the capacitor wire around the pin first; then twist with the

long-nose pliers until you have made a tight connection. Bend the

other wire from the capacitor flat against the inside of the shoe box

lid. Label it .01 on the outside and inside. Mount the .0047 uF

capacitor near pin 6. On the inside twist the capacitor wire around

the pin. Flatten the wire from the other end and label it .0047. Mount

the 3.9 KW resistor near pin 7, connecting it on the inside to the

pin. Flatten the wire on the other end and label it 3.9. Mount the 1

KW resistor and connect it similarly to pin 8 and label it 1K.

 

6. Pierce two holes ½ inch apart next to pin 3 (again, you can

share the hole for pin 3 if you wish), in the direction of the bolt.

Mount the other 1 KW resistor and label inside and outside. Twist the

connections together and flatten the re­maining wire. This resistor

protects the circuit if you should accidentally short the terminals.

Mount the 3.9KW resistor downward. One end can go in the same hole as

the 1K resistor near pin 3. Twist that end around pin 3 which already

has the 1K resistor attached to it. Flatten the far end. Label.

 

7. Next to the 3.9KW resistor pierce two holes ¼ inch apart for

the LED. No­[NCW22] tice that the LED has a positive and negative

connection. The longer wire is the anode (positive). Mount the LED on

the outside and bend back the wires, labeling them + and - on the in­side.

 

8. Near the top pierce a hole for the toggle switch. Enlarge it

until the shaft fits through from the inside. Remove nut and washer

from switch before mounting. You may need to trim away some paper with

a serrated knife before replac­ing washer and nut on the outside. Tighten.

 

9. Next to the switch pierce two holes for the wires from the

battery holder and poke them through. Attach the battery and tape it

to the outside.

 

 

 

NOW TO CONNECT EVERYTHING

 

 

First, make holes at the corners of the lid with a pencil. Slit each

corner to the hole. They will accommodate extra loops of wire that you

get from using the clip leads to make connections. After each

connection gently tuck away the excess wire.

 

1. Twist the free ends of the two capacitors (.01 and .0047)

together. Connect this to the grounding bolt using an alli­gator clip.

 

2. Bend the top ends of pin 2 and pin 6 (which already has a

connection) inward towards each other in an L shape. Catch them both

with a alligator clip and attach the other end of the alligator clip

to the free end of the 3.9KW re­sistor by pin 7.

 

[NCW23] 3. Using an alligator clip connect pin 7 to the free end

of the 1KW resistor attached to pin 8.

 

4. Using two microclips connect pin 8 to one end of the switch,

and pin 4 to the same end of the switch. (Put one hook inside the hole

and the other hook around the whole connection. Check to make sure

they are securely con­nected.)

 

5. Use an alligator clip to connect the free end of the other 1KW

resistor (by pin 3) to the bolt.

 

6. Twist the free end of the 3.9KW resistor around the plus end

of the LED. Connect the minus end of the LED to the grounding bolt

using an alligator clip.

 

7. Connect pin number 1 on the chip to the grounding bolt with an

alligator clip.

 

8. Attach an alligator clip to the outside of one of the bolts.

Attach the other end to a handhold (copper pipe). Do the same for the

other bolt and handhold.

 

9. Connect the minus end of the battery (black wire) to the

grounding bolt with an alligator clip.

 

10. Connect the plus end of the battery (red wire) to the free end

of the switch using a microclip lead. If the LED lights up you know

the switch is ON. If it does not, flip the switch and see if the LED

lights. Label the switch clearly. If you cannot get the LED to light

in either switch position, you must double-check all of your

con­nections, and make sure you have a fresh battery.

 

[NCW24] 11. Finally replace the lid on the box, loosely, and slip a

cou­ple of rubber bands around the box to keep it securely shut.

 

 

Fig. 4 Finished zapper, outside and inside.

 

 

• Optional: measure the frequency of your zapper by con­necting an

oscilloscope or frequency counter to the hand-holds. Any electronics

shop can do this. It should read between 20 and 40 kHz.

 

• Optional: measure the voltage output by connecting it to an

oscilloscope. It should be about 8 to 9 volts. Note: a voltage meter

will only read 4 to 5 volts.

 

• Optional: measure the current that flows through you when you

are getting zapped. You will need a 1 KW re­sistor and oscilloscope.

Connect the grounding bolt on the zapper to one end of the resistor.

Connect the other end of the resistor to a handhold. (Adding this

resistor to the cir­cuit decreases the current slightly, but not

significantly.) [NCW25] The other handhold is attached to the other

bolt. Connect the scope ground wire to one end of the resistor.

Connect the scope probe to the other end of the resistor. Turn the

zapper ON and grasp the handholds. Read the voltage on the scope. It

will read about 3.5 volts. Calculate current by dividing voltage by

resistance. 3.5 volts divided by 1 KW is 3.5 ma (milliamperes).

Using The Zapper

 

1. Wrap handholds in one layer of wet paper towel before using.

Grasp securely and turn the switch on to zap.

 

2. Zap for 7 minutes, let go of the handholds, turn off the

zapper, and rest for 20 minutes. Then 7 minutes on, 20 minutes rest,

and a final 7 minutes on.

 

Trying the zapper on an illness to see " if it works " is not useful.

Your symptoms may be due to a non-parasite. Or you may reinfect within

hours of zapping. The best way to test your device is to find a few

invaders that you currently have (see Lesson Twelve, page 251, or

Lesson Twenty Seven, page 260). This gives you a starting point. Then

zap yourself. After the tri­ple zapping, none of these invaders should

be present.

Simple Pulser

 

If you are ill or want a reliable zapping, make the first model.

However, there is another way to make a zapper if you can not afford

to build the first model.

 

An ordinary battery is a source of positive voltage. It is the

positive voltage that eliminates so many parasites at once, a specific

frequency. So although the zapper's frequency is about 30 kHz (thirty

thousand " zaps " per second), even 5 Hz (five [NCW26] " zaps " per

second), about as fast as you can tap the battery with your hand, is

moderately effective!

 

You must be connected to both terminals. One will be marked +

(positive) and the other – (negative). If you simply touch these

terminals with your wet fingers, nothing much hap­pens. That is

because your resistance to the current starts going up right away, so

less and less current passes through you.

 

 

Fig. 5 Simple pulser.

 

However if you tap the positive terminal with your wet hand, and tap

it at a fairly high rate, your body's capacitors come into play.

Capacitors only take part in the flow of elec­tricity when they are

charged and discharged. Tapping the ter­minal starts and stops the

voltage so capacitors charge and discharge. This kind of resistance to

current flow is much smaller.

 

The faster you tap, the greater the frequency of current pulses and

the lower this kind of resistance becomes. Now you can have a

considerable sustained current flow through your body.

 

[NCW27] If you can tap even twice per second (2 Hz) for ten minutes

without interruption you can give yourself a zapping that is

moderately effective. Remember to take an intermission of twenty

minutes and then repeat to avoid catching new viruses. After a second

twenty minute intermission repeat zapping a third time.

Using The Simple Pulser

 

9 volt battery

 

2 short (12 " ) alligator clip leads (from any electronics shop)

 

2 copper pipes, ¾ " diameter, 4 " long (from a hardware store)

 

1. Wrap each handhold with one layer of wet paper towel. Place each

on a non-conductive surface, like a plastic bag.

 

2. Connect the positive battery terminal to one handhold and the

negative terminal to the other handhold using alligator clip leads.

 

3. Don't let the handholds touch.

 

4. Place a clock in front of you to time yourself.

 

5. Pick up the right handhold with your right hand.

 

6. Leave the left handhold on the table. Tap it with your left

hand, preferably the fleshy part of the palm. You may brace yourself

with your fingers on the plastic. Keep up a steady pace as fast as you

are able.

 

7. When you get tired pick up the left handhold with your left hand

and tap with your right hand. Keep changing off with the least

interruption.

 

8. Repeat a second time 20 minutes later, and a third time 20

minutes after that.

 

A single 9 volt battery will wear out rather quickly used this way.

Put two together, in parallel, for longer lasting power. This requires

two more short alligator clips. Connect positive termi­nals of the

batteries to each other, and the negatives also.

 

Parasites & Pollution

 

The word " parasites " is used in two senses. Everything liv­ing on you

or in you, not just to perch, but to take its food from you is a

parasite. No matter what its size, it can be called a parasite.

 

But in some way the big worms need to be distinguished from the

medium-sized amoebae, the even smaller bacteria and the smallest of

all—viruses. So often the term parasite is re­served for the bigger

things, from amoebae on up. In this book, the word parasite will be

used in both ways as usual. You can easily guess what is meant.

 

Parasitic worms are divided into roundworms and flatworms. Roundworms

are round like earthworms even though they may be as thin as hairs

(threadworms, filaria) or micro­scopically small (like Trichinella).

Flatworms are more like leeches. They have a way to attach themselves

sometimes with the head (scolex) like tapeworms, sometimes with a

special sucker like flukes.

 

 

 

Worms

 

Flatworms Roundworms

 

 

Tapeworms Flukes Threadworms Pinworms Hookworms

 

 

 

Worm parasites go through stages of development that can look very,

very different from the adult.

 

[NCW28] Roundworms like Ascaris (common cat and dog round­worm), are

simplest. The eggs are swallowed by licking or eating a bit of filth.

They hatch into a tiny larva. The larva treks to the lungs. You cough

it up and swallow it. Meanwhile it has molted a few times. It then

crawls to the intestine where it becomes an adult, shedding eggs in

your stool.

 

Fig. 6 Ascaris.

 

Worms usually have preferred locations. The favorite organ for

Dirofilaria (dog heartworm) is the heart (even human heart). Sometimes

the rules can be broken. My tests show Dirofilaria can live in other

organs, too, if they are sufficiently polluted with solvents, metals

and other toxins.

 

Flatworms like tapeworms are much more complicated in their life

history. You could eat the eggs accidentally with dirt. After

hatching, the tiny larva burrows into its favorite organ. Your body

encases it with a cyst. The white blood cells have been taught never

to attack your body...and the cyst case is your body! So the tapeworm

stage has safe residence for some time. If you are a meat eater, you

could eat such a cyst if it happens to be lodged in the meat you are

eating! Your teeth break it apart as you crunch. The little larva is

swallowed and tries to attach itself to your intestine with its head.

Then it grows longer by making segment after segment. The segments

with their eggs leave with the bowel contents. I often see dog

tapeworm of the small variety in their human family.

 

Flatworms like flukes are also very complicated. The eggs, passed out

with bowel contents were not meant to be eaten as such. They were

meant to hatch in a pond where snails and minnows eat them. The larva

grows up in these new [NCW29] " secondary " hosts. Later, the snail

sheds them and they attach themselves to foliage near the pond. They

over-winter in a tough metacercarial cyst. An unsuspecting browsing

animal now eats them. They come out of their metacercarial cyst as a

small adult and quickly attach themselves to the intestine with a

sucker. They now have " safe haven " and can go about maturing and

laying eggs.

 

Four common flukes are: human intestinal fluke, human liver fluke,

sheep liver fluke, pancreatic fluke of cattle. Don't let the terms

sheep and cattle mislead you. They are all found in humans.

 

 

Fig. 7 (L to R) Human intestinal fluke, pancreatic fluke, sheep liver

fluke, and human liver fluke.

The Worst Parasite

 

Fasciolopsis buskii is the fluke (flatworm) that I find in every case

of cancer, HIV infection, Alzheimer's, Crohn's dis­ease, Kaposi's,

endometriosis, and in many people without these diseases. Its life

cycle involves six different stages:

 

 

[NCW30] Stage

 

Normal Life Cycle

 

1 Egg

 

Expelled with bowel movement onto soil. Washed by rain into ponds.

 

 

2 Miracidia

 

 

Hatches from egg in water. Has cilia, can swim vigorously and must

find intermediate snail host in one to two hours or may be too

exhausted to invade.

 

 

3 Redia

 

Develop inside miracidia as little balls until expelled. Those are

" mother " redia, and each one bears " daughter " redia for up to 8

months, all still inside the snail, and living on the fluids in the

lymphatic spaces. Similarly, daughter redia are continually developing

cercaria.

 

 

4 Cercaria

 

 

Have a tail, use it to exit from snail and swim to a plant. If the

snail is feeding on a plant, cercaria can latch onto plant with sucker

mouth and start to encyst (form a " cocoon " ) within minutes. Tail

breaks off and swims away to dissolve.

 

 

5 Metacercaria

 

 

Two-walled cyst. The outer wall is very sticky. But as you eat the

plant it is stuck to, the least pressure will break it, leaving the

cyst in the mouth. The " almost unbreakable " inner cyst wall protects

it from chewing, and the keratin-like coat prevents digestion by

stomach juices. However when it reaches the duodenum, contact with

intestinal juices dissolves away the cyst-wall and frees it. It then

fastens itself to the intestinal lining and begins to develop into an

adult.

 

[NCW31] 6 Adult

 

Lives in your intestine and can pro-duce 1000 eggs per bowel movement

and live many years.

 

 

Fig. 8 Fasciolopsis' normal life cycle.

 

Note that the adult is the only stage that " normally " lives in the

human (and then only in the intestine). Fasciolopsis de­pends on a

snail, called a secondary host, for part of its life cy­cle. But when

your body has solvents in it, the other five stages can develop in you!

 

If propyl alcohol is the solvent, the intestinal fluke is in­vited to

use another organ as a secondary host—this organ will become

cancerous. If benzene is the solvent, the intestinal fluke uses the

thymus for its secondary host, setting the stage for AIDS. Wood

alcohol invites pancreatic flukes to use the pan­creas as a secondary

host. This leads to pancreatic dysfunction which we call diabetes. If

xylene (or toluene) are the solvents, I typically see any of four

flukes using the brain as a secondary host. If methyl ethyl ketone

(MEK) or methyl butyl ketone (MBK) are the solvents, the uterus

becomes a secondary host and endometriosis a likely result.

 

This is a new kind of parasitism, based on pollution. I call the

diseases caused by fluke stages in inappropriate locations Fluke

Disease; it is discussed in more detail later (page 125).

 

Are tapeworms and roundworms affected by solvents this way, too? This

is a fascinating and very important question. Search for the answer

and help others search for the answer. I do not know yet.