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CSPI Reports

 

------

 

 

Cheating Babies: Nutritional Quality

 

 

and Cost of Commercial Baby Food

 

Daryth D. Stallone, Ph.D., M.P.H.

 

Michael F. Jacobson, Ph.D.

 

 

Executive Summary

 

 

Conclusions and Recommendations

 

Parents expect baby foods to be just as nutritious as possible--to live

up to Heinz' slogan " Only the best ingredients for the best nutrition. "

This report was intended to inform parents about nutritional differences

among types and brands of commercial baby foods and to discourage them

from paying high prices for baby food. While our study indicates that

some baby foods are diluted, they do not appear to endanger the health

of infants, inasmuch as most of infants' nutrition comes from breast

milk, formula, or cow's milk.

 

 

I. Major Findings

 

Gerber and Heinz replace real food with water and thickening agents in

many of their products for children over six months of age. Such

adulterated products are nutritionally inferior to products made with

more fruits and vegetables.

 

The single-ingredients foods made by all the companies differ only

modestly as a result of adding somewhat different amounts of water.

However, Gerber and Heinz add substantial amounts of water and

thickening agents (flours and chemically modified starches) to more than

half of their twenty-five most popular fruits, mixed and creamed

vegetables, desserts, and dinners for babies over six months (second-

and third-stage foods). Not only are those products a monetary rip-off,

they are also nutritionally inferior to similar products made without

fillers. Gerber and Heinz' bananas with tapioca, for example, contain

less than half of the levels of nutrients found in their plain

first-stage bananas. Gerber and Heinz' regular dinners, which contain at

least two types of refined flour as thickeners, provide less than 50% of

the nutrient levels found in comparable dinners made by Growing Healthy,

which are made from whole foods and contain no starchy fillers. Many

fewer products made by Beech-Nut and Earth's Best contain starchy fillers.

 

Baby foods are very high priced compared to similar regular foods. Baby

foods cost far more per ounce than conventional national brands or

supermarket brands. For example, parents often pay more than double for

baby food fruit juices and applesauce. Gerber Graduates diced fruits and

vegetables are also more than twice the price of comparable products

available in the canned goods aisle. For the majority of puréed baby

foods, there are no comparable regular products. However, judging from

the instances in which direct comparisons can be made, these baby foods

are also priced far higher than they would be in a competitive industry.

 

Makers of baby food encourage a mystique about their products. They want

parents to think that commercial baby foods have special properties that

make them particularly appropriate, if not essential, for infants.

 

Advertising campaigns promote the myth that commercial products are

especially good at meeting the nutritional and developmental needs of

infants. Gerber's public relations and advertising machinery has

cultivated an almost sacred image in people's minds of Gerber products.

Those perceptions are clearly untrue. Parents, armed with a food

processor, blender, or mashing fork, can easily prepare safe,

nutritious, and economical food for their infants at home. Of course,

many commercial products are nutritious and do fill a need when

convenience is desired.

 

 

II. What Parents Should Do

 

*To give your baby the most nutritious and economical food:*

 

Prepare your own baby foods whenever possible. With a blender or food

processor it is easy to make a purée of most foods. Soft foods, like

bananas, can be mashed with a fork. All foods, with the exception of

bananas, should be well cooked. Refrigerate any foods that are not used

right away. You can make large batches of baby foods, freeze them in

ice-cube trays or small containers, and thaw them as needed.

 

 

When buying commercial baby food, compare labels carefully.

 

Look at ingredient lists. Avoid products that contain added sugars,

modified food starches, or wheat, rice, and other flours. When buying

single fruit, vegetable, or meat products (i.e., foods that contain only

one ingredient and water), select the brand with the most

calories--hence, the most food--per unit weight. On average, Growing

Healthy, while more expensive, had a slight nutritional edge over other

brands' single-ingredient foods. When choosing dinners, buy products

with little or no added thickeners, such as Beech-Nut's second-stage

dinners or any of Growing Healthy's dinners. Also, Gerber and Heinz' new

meat-vegetable and meat-fruit combinations do not contain fillers and

are more nutritious than their regular dinners. If you want organic

food, choose Earth's Best, though other companies claim that their

products contain very low levels of pesticides (and quite possibly

levels as low as Earth's Best).

 

 

Avoid baby food desserts.

 

Instead, feed your baby the more nutritious plain fruit products. Buy

regular fruit juices, unsweetened applesauce, and other comparable

prepared foods instead of baby foods when possible.

 

Parents may feel that there must be something especially good about baby

foods that justifies high prices. There is nothing magical about baby

foods. When you want convenience, prepared adult foods that are similar

in consistency to baby foods are just as good, but cost much less.

Regular fruit juices and unsweetened applesauce, for example, are less

than half the price of baby food juices and applesauce.

 

 

III. Recommendations To The Food Industry

 

Baby food manufacturers should live up to their advertised promises.

They can begin by:

 

* Replacing starchy fillers with real food.

 

* Removing added sugars and salt and halting the production of

desserts.

 

* Lowering prices for fruit juices and other products.

 

Furthermore, we urge supermarkets to consider marketing lines of their

own house-brand baby foods.

 

 

IV. Recommendation For Government Action

 

The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) should re-propose

regulations to require disclosure of the percentage of the

characterizing ingredient(s) on the front label of baby foods, as well

as percentage labeling of all significant ingredients on the back label.

 

The FDA should halt deceptive labeling, including the front-label use of

the term " tapioca " instead of the more accurate " chemically modified

food starch. " It should stop Gerber from printing ingredient lists on

first- and second-stage foods in small black lettering on a dark blue

background.

 

The U.S. Department of Agriculture should require percentage labeling on

meat- and poultry-containing baby foods and should educate low-income

(and other) Americans about over-priced and low-quality baby foods.

 

 

Introduction

 

New parents want to provide their infants with the best possible start

in life. They are faced with many important decisions: whether to breast

feed; which soaps, lotions and diapers to buy; and, when the time for

solid food comes, what foods to feed their baby. Parents want to feel

secure that the foods they choose for their babies are as healthful as

possible. While it is easy to make nutritious baby foods at home,

commercially prepared foods are convenient for busy parents. Over the

years, tens of millions of parents have entrusted food manufacturers to

provide their babies with much of the solid food they will eat during

their first year of life.

 

Four million babies are born in the United States every year. By the

time they reach twelve months of age, each of those infants has

consumed, smeared around, or spit out an average of 600 jars of baby

food. By contrast, the average baby born in western Europe will consume

only about 240 jars of baby food, and in eastern European countries,

like Poland, about 12 jars.

 

Baby food is a $1.25 billion a year industry in the United States. Just

three companies--Gerber, Beech-Nut and Heinz--control over 95% of the

market. Gerber, which jarred its first strained peas in 1928, is far and

away the industry leader, with more than a 70% share of the market.

Gerber makes 182 different food and juice items for babies and toddlers

and sells over 1.2 billion units of baby food per year. Beech-Nut and

Heinz trail far behind Gerber, with about 14% of the market each. Both

companies make close to 120 different baby foods and sell over 230

million units of baby food annually.

 

Two companies born in the late eighties are trying to grab a share of

the market from the big three. One of them, Earth's Best, markets 47

varieties of organic jarred baby food and juices. Earth's Best, which

was founded in 1985, holds 2.5% of the market. The other newcomer is

Growing Healthy. Founded in 1989, Growing Healthy is the first producer

of frozen baby foods, which it claims are tastier and nutritionally

superior to jarred foods. Growing Healthy is sold only in select cities

and holds less than 1% of the market. However, in areas where it is

available, the 33-item line accounts for up to 6.5% of baby food units

sold.

 

Companies compete heavily for new parents' loyalty and business. Through

brochures, direct mail, and ad campaigns, each tries to convince parents

that its products are the best. Gerber recently launched a $30 million

TV, print, and direct-mail campaign using the slogan " For learning to

eat smart, right from the start. " The ads assure parents that Gerber

foods are " specially formulated to help your baby develop a variety of

tastes for healthier foods " and that " The longer you can keep your baby

on these smart [Gerber] foods now, the better her chances are for eating

healthy--and being healthy--for a long time to come. "

 

Heinz claims that its baby foods are " Everything you could want in a

baby food! " and provide " Only the best ingredients for the best nutrition. "

 

Beech-Nut's ads focus on how its foods differ from those of Gerber and

Heinz: " Gerber and Heinz add sugar and chemically modified starch to

some of their fruits. But at Beech-Nut, we add more fruit instead. "

Also, " Not adding refined sugar or chemically modified starch to fruits

means more of the essential minerals, potassium and magnesium. "

 

Growing Healthy's ads claim that its foods taste better and are more

nutritious than jarred foods. They also play on parental guilt. One ad

depicts a child with enormous eyes looking out from the page, with the

caption reading " There'll never be a more important time to give me REAL

nutrition. Yet you're gonna feed me JARRED vegetables that've had many

of the nutrients processed out so they can sit on a shelf for three

years? Does Grandma know about this? "

 

How well do the companies deliver on their promises to provide the most

nutritious food made of the finest ingredients? It's hard to say from

looking at the foods--almost all are puréed, strained, or blended so

they look little like their whole components. And since the percentages

of ingredients are not listed on the label, the ingredient statements

are not always useful for making comparisons. For example, parents have

no way of knowing how much chicken is in a chicken and noodles dinner,

or what percentage of a mixed vegetables dish is actually vegetables.

Nutrition labels provide useful information, but it often takes a

nutrition degree and a calculator to compare two products. To help

inform consumers, CSPI has investigated the nutritional quality and

costs of commercially prepared baby food. The inquiry focused primarily

on the fruits, vegetables, dinners, and juices sold for babies up to a

year of age. Our findings reveal that not all baby foods are created equal.

 

 

Nutrition: First-Stage Foods

 

All the manufacturers, except Earth's Best, market three categories of

baby food: first-stage, second-stage, and third-stage foods. Food in the

three stages vary in variety, portion, size, and, in some cases,

texture, to match the needs of growing infants. First-stage foods are

single fruits, vegetables, and dry cereals intended to be the first

solid foods that an infant ingests, usually sometime after four months

of age. Beech-Nut's first-stage foods also include meats. First-stage

foods are sold in 2.5-ounce (Gerber, Heinz, Beech-Nut) or 4-ounce jars

and packages (Beech-Nut, Growing Healthy). Earth's Best does not use a

three-stage system. Its single fruits and vegetables are sold in 4-ounce

jars.

 

First-stage foods comprise 19% of the total units of solid baby food

sold. Gerber sells thirteen different first-stage foods. Several

first-stage foods are among the most popular baby foods--five of

Gerber's fifteen top-selling foods and Beech-Nut's seven best-selling

foods. Gerber and Beech-Nut also sell single fruit juices under the

first-stage label. All juices are fortified with vitamin C.

 

 

Fruits and Vegetables

 

*Major Finding*: The amount of fruit or vegetable in first-stage foods

varies moderately between brands.

 

The ingredients of first-stage fruits and vegetables vary little from

company to company. All are composed of a single fruit or vegetable,

usually mixed with water, with or without the addition of vitamin C and

citric acid. However, the amount of fruit or vegetable in a given amount

of food varies moderately from brand to brand due to the addition of

different amounts of water and perhaps the use of different varieties of

ingredients.

 

The carbohydrate content of single fruit or vegetable products is a good

indicator of the amount of fruit or vegetable that a product contains.

Among the ten most popular first-stage foods, the brand with the highest

carbohydrate content, and hence the most fruit or vegetable, contains

21% to 79% more carbohydrate per ounce than the brand with the least

amount (Table 1). Growing Healthy products had, on average, the highest

food content and Earth's Best the lowest. The three major companies fell

in the middle, with Heinz the best of the three. (Comparing the solids

contents of the various brands of first-stage foods yielded similar

results.) It is worth noting that Growing Healthy's peaches and pears

contain " natural fruit concentrate, " in addition to plain fruit and

water. The use of that concentrate is partly responsible for the higher

carbohydrate and solids contents of Growing Healthy's peaches and pears

compared to the plain, unconcentrated fruits of other brands.

 

 

Nutrition: Second-Stage and Third-Stage Foods

 

Second- and third-stage solid foods are cereals, fruits, vegetables,

meats, dinners, and desserts for infants from six and nine months of

age, respectively. Sixty percent of the leading brands of baby foods

sold are second-stage foods and 21% are third-stage foods. Gerber sells

sixty different second-stage and forty-six different third-stage solid

jarred foods.

 

Most second-stage foods are sold in 4- to 4.5-ounce jars and packages.

Third-stage foods are sold in a 6-ounce size. The composition and

nutritional value of most second- and third-stage cereal, dessert,

fruit, and vegetable products of the same name are identical. Most

second- and third-stage dinners of the same name are, for the most part,

similar in ingredient and nutrient composition, by weight. The principle

difference is that the third-stage dinners tend to have a coarser

texture and may contain chunks of food.

 

 

I. Fruits and Vegetables

 

*Major Finding*: Gerber and Heinz dilute many second- and third-stage

fruits and vegetables with water and starchy fillers and sweeten them

with sugars. That practice greatly reduces the nutrient density of those

foods compared to the pure fruit or vegetable product.

 

Beech-Nut, Earth's Best, and Growing Healthy do not add sugar or starchy

fillers to any single or mixed fruit or vegetable baby food. Gerber and

Heinz also make a variety of plain second- and third-stage products, and

those products have about the same nutritional value as other brands.

However, Gerber and Heinz add sugars and/or starchy fillers to over half

of their second- and third-stage fruits and several second-stage

vegetables. Gerber adds sugar to 55% (12 of 22) and chemically modified

tapioca starch to 50% (11 of 22) of its second- and third-stage fruits

(products are labeled " with tapioca " ). Heinz adds corn syrup or sugar to

57% (12 of 21) and chemically modified starch (corn and/or tapioca) to

48% (10/21) of its second- and third-stage fruits. Gerber and Heinz also

add flour to mixed and creamed vegetables.

 

The addition of water, sugars, and starchy fillers greatly dilutes the

nutrient content of the foods, compared with the first-stage version of

the same brand, with comparable second- or third-stage products that do

not contain added fillers, or with equivalent weights of fresh produce.

The examples below illustrate the degree to which adulteration with

water, starches, and sugars dilute the nutrient density of second-stage

fruits and vegetables.

 

 

Fruit with Tapioca

 

About half of Gerber and Heinz's second- and third-stage fruits are

" fruits with tapioca. " Gerber sells over 100 million jars of fruits with

tapioca per year. Bananas with tapioca is Gerber's top selling baby

food--over 40 million jars were sold in 1994. Neither Gerber nor Heinz

makes jars larger than 2.5 ounces of plain versions of the fruits that

are in their fruit-with-tapioca products.

 

All varieties of fruit with tapioca contain water, fruit, chemically

modified tapioca starch, and sugar or high-fructose corn syrup. Heinz'

products also contain chemically-modified corn starch. Although these

products are labeled " fruit with tapioca, " the name of the fruit(s),

such as " Bananas, " is written in large letters, while " with tapioca " is

written in smaller letters below. This labeling likely leads consumers

to assume that the products are largely fruit, with all the nutritional

benefits of full-fruit products. However, the fruit-with-tapioca

products that we examined contain half or less as much fruit as the

products made only from fruit and water. In other words, a 2.5-ounce jar

of first-stage bananas or first-stage prunes actually contains more

fruit than the 4-ounce jars of second-stage products that are

adulterated with water and chemically modified starch.

 

 

Comparison with First-stage Bananas and First-stage Prunes (Table 2)

 

Compared to its own first-stage products, Gerber's bananas with tapioca

and prunes with tapioca provide, on average, half or less the amount of

nutrients that fresh bananas and prunes are rich in--potassium,

riboflavin, and vitamin B-6. Heinz' bananas with tapioca provide an

average of only 28% of the riboflavin, vitamin B-6, and potassium, per

ounce, contained in Heinz' first-stage food.

 

 

Comparison with Fresh Apricots

 

Apricots are a good source of potassium and vitamin A. One 4-ounce

serving of fresh apricots provides about 335 mg of potassium and 2860 IU

of vitamin A. By contrast, a 4-ounce serving of Gerber's apricots with

tapioca contains only 139 mg of potassium and 1333 IU of vitamin A--or

less than one-half as much.

 

Heinz' apricots with tapioca compare even less favorably with the fresh

fruit than Gerber's. A 4-ounce serving contains only 78 mg of potassium

(23% of the amount in fresh apricots) and 813 IU of vitamin A (28% of

the amount in fresh apricots), suggesting that Heinz' product is less

than 30% fruit by weight.

 

Those findings reveal that three of the most popular Gerber and two of

the most popular Heinz fruits with tapioca contain half or less as much

fruit as their plain products or less than half the nutrient levels that

would be present in fresh fruit. Other fruit products made with tapioca

are probably similarly diluted, though there is no undiluted product

with which to make direct comparisons. In other words, the 4-ounce jars

of fruit with tapioca often actually contain less fruit than the

2.5-ounce jars. Beech-Nut's reformulation experience strengthens this

conclusion. In 1983, Beech-Nut stopped making fruit-with-tapioca

products. To replace the starch and water with fruit, Beech-Nut had to

increase the amount of bananas in the product from 20%-30% to 80%-600 of

the product's weight. Since that time, Beech-Nut has run ads that point

out the differences between the amount of fruit in its products and

Gerber's fruits with tapioca.

 

 

Mixed and Creamed Vegetables

 

Gerber and Heinz prepare several of their second- and third-stage

vegetables with starch thickeners, though more than half of their

second- and third-stage vegetables are made without thickeners. The

nutritional quality of a vegetable dish with added flour or starch is

inferior to that of unadulterated dishes. Compare, for instance, mixed

and garden vegetables:

 

" Mixed vegetables " : Gerber and Heinz' " mixed vegetables " each contain

three kinds of starch thickeners (wheat and oat flours, and potato

solids or potato flour) and relatively little vegetable. The ingredients

in Gerber's " mixed vegetables, " in order by weight, are: water, carrots,

wheat flour, oat flour, potato solids, tomato paste, and onion powder.

Heinz' " mixed vegetables " contain water, carrots, squash, wheat flour,

oat flour, tomato paste, potato flour, and onion powder. By contrast,

Beech-Nut makes a mixed vegetable product that is not adulterated with

starchy filler, however nutrition information was unavailable for

comparison.

 

" Garden vegetables " : Growing Healthy, Beech-Nut, Gerber, and Earth's

Best's " garden vegetables " are composed solely of vegetables and water.

Growing Healthy's garden vegetables contain, in order by weight,

carrots, squash, water, corn, peas, tomato paste, onions, and onion

powder. Beech-Nut's ingredient list reads: water, peas, green beans,

carrots, and dehydrated potatoes. Gerber's ingredient list reads: peas,

water, carrots and spinach. Earth's Best garden vegetables contain:

water, carrots, potatoes, corn, and green beans.

 

Thus, the garden vegetable products provide about the same number of

calories as the mixed vegetables, but one-and-one-half to three times

the amount of thiamin, riboflavin, niacin, and vitamin C. Gerber and

Heinz' mixed vegetables are so diluted with water and starchy fillers

that we can't help but wonder what purpose they serve other than to

capture more shelf space in stores.

 

Gerber and Heinz adulterate four varieties of " creamed vegetables "

(Gerber markets corn and spinach; Heinz markets corn, peas, and green

beans) with fillers. Consider creamed corn, for example:

 

Creamed corn: Gerber's product is made with water, corn, nonfat dry

milk, and rice flour. Heinz' contains water, corn, carrots, modified

corn starch, sugar, and whole-milk solids. Growing Healthy's creamed

corn contains only corn and water. Compared to Gerber and Heinz, Growing

Healthy's creamed corn provides at least 73% more calories, 75% more

riboflavin, two times as much niacin, three times as much thiamin, and

significantly more protein per ounce.

 

 

Other Findings

 

All stages of Gerber and Beech-Nut's unsweetened plain fruits and

vegetables have similar nutritional values. Heinz' second- and

third-stage plain versions of fruits and vegetables (except for squash

and sweet potatoes) contain more water and 19% to 29% less fruit or

vegetable, as measured by carbohydrate or solids content, per ounce than

its first-stage foods. Gerber and Heinz' second- and third-stage peaches

contain added sugar.

 

Since 1994, Gerber has added modest amounts of sugar and or salt to some

of its third-stage fruits and vegetables (and other products). Two

third-stage vegetables--carrots and squash--now contain added sugar. It

appears that the sugar does not replace any vegetable, but is added to

it, thereby increasing calories without also increasing the nutrient

content. Although the American Academy of Pediatrics recommends that

salt not be added to baby foods, six of Gerber's seven third-stage

vegetables now contain small amounts of added salt. The sugar and salt

may serve to mask off-flavors and/or enhance desired flavors in the

heavily processed foods.

 

 

II. Dinners

 

*Major Finding*: Growing Healthy's dinners consistently provide more

nutrients than other brands. Gerber and Heinz' regular dinners provide

the least nutritious dinners (though those companies have healthier new

lines of dinners).

 

Baby food dinners are strained combination foods that typically contain

meat, vegetables, and sometimes noodles or rice. Gerber markets ten

different second-stage and eleven different third-stage dinners. Heinz

sells eleven second- and eleven third-stage dinners. Beech-Nut sells ten

second-stage and seven third-stage dinners. Growing Healthy sells five

second-stage and three third-stage dinners (each of which comes in plain

and chunky). Earth's Best sells eight second-stage dinners, five of

which are vegetarian, and four third-stage dinners, one of which is

vegetarian.

 

Growing Healthy does not add starchy thickeners, such as flour or

modified starch, to any of its dinners. Gerber and Heinz, by contrast,

add at least two types of flours to all their standard dinners--some

meals contain 4 different flour fillers. (Both Gerber and Heinz recently

began marketing a line of dinners without fillers. Those products are

not directly comparable to other companies' products, but they are

clearly more healthful than Gerber and Heinz' regular dinners.) While

Beech-Nut does not add any starchy fillers to its second-stage dinners,

it does add them to six of its seven third-stage dinners. Earth's Best

adds whole grain flour to each of its dinners.

 

The use of starchy thickening agents can mask the addition of a good

deal of water. As any cook knows, a little bit of flour or starch can

thicken a lot of liquid. The presence in a baby food of one or more

fillers, such as rice flour, wheat flour, or modified starch, is a good

indicator that the food is a dilute and nutritionally inferior product.

Consider, for example, chicken and noodles, the top-selling second-stage

dinner. Gerber's chicken and noodles contains two types of flour, and

Heinz' product contains three types of flour and chemically modified

corn starch. The chicken and noodles products made by Growing Healthy

and Beech-Nut, by contrast, are thickened with real food. Not

surprisingly, Growing Healthy and Beech-Nut's dinners are more

nutritious than either Gerber or Heinz' (Table 3). The Growing Healthy

meal is especially high in nutrients. It provides 44% more calories and

at least twice as much protein, vitamin A, and B-vitamins (thiamin,

riboflavin, niacin, and vitamin B-6) as Gerber and Heinz'. The

differences are due both to Gerber and Heinz' use of water and fillers

and to Growing Healthy's use of concentrated nutrient-rich broths. While

the Beech-Nut product contains about the same amount of calories and

protein as Gerber and Heinz' products, it provides at least 40% more

potassium (data not shown) and six times more vitamin A, indicating the

use of more food and no fillers. Earth's Best's dinner, which is a

third-stage dinner, contains at least 50% more protein than the leading

brands and twice as much vitamin A as either Gerber or Heinz' dinner.

 

We made similar calculations of nutrient levels in three other popular

dinners: vegetables and chicken, vegetables and beef, and vegetables and

turkey. The results of those calculations are presented in Table 4. On

average, Gerber and Heinz' dinners provided less than half the nutrient

content per serving as Growing Healthy's.

 

Beech-Nut and Earth's Best were not included in those calculations

because complete nutrition information was not available for all four

dinners. However, using the limited nutritional information available

for Earth's Best dinners, we compared Earth's Best's chicken and

noodles, vegetables and beef, and vegetables and turkey with Gerber,

Heinz, and Growing Healthy's products (Earth's Best does not make a

vegetables and chicken dinner). The results revealed that Earth's Best

dinners provide, on average, 43% more protein, and more than two and

one-half times the vitamin A as Gerber and Heinz' dinners. Compared to

Growing Healthy's products, Earth's Best provided an average of 85% of

the calories, 64% of the protein, and 1.8 times the vitamin A.

 

 

III. Other Products

 

*Desserts *

 

The three leading manufacturers make a wide variety of dessert products.

Gerber makes nine different second-stage, and eight different

third-stage desserts. Heinz offers a greater variety of second-stage

desserts (13) than it does second-stage vegetables (8) or fruits (12);

it also makes more third-stage desserts (5) than third-stage

vegetables(4). Beech-Nut makes seventeen second-stage desserts and four

third-stage desserts. Every dessert sold by Gerber, Heinz, and Beech-Nut

contains added sugars, and Gerber and Heinz' desserts contain

chemically-modified starch. According to a Gerber spokesperson, Gerber's

desserts contain up to 11% sugar by weight. That means a 6-ounce dessert

item may contain up to 18 grams, or four and a half teaspoons of sugar.

Some might consider such products a child's first junk foods.

 

Sugar-added desserts dilute the nutrient density of babies' diets and

serve no purpose in the diet of an infant. Plain fruit provides the

sweetness children like, as well as higher levels of essential

nutrients. By contrast, the fruit in baby food desserts is diluted out

with water and starch. The added sugars provide calories, but no other

nutrients. Consider the following products:

 

Gerber's peach cobbler provides only 44% of the vitamin A and 53% of the

potassium that is present in Gerber's plain first-stage peaches.

 

Gerber's banana-apple dessert contains only 47% of the potassium and 26%

of the dietary fiber that is present in Gerber's plain apple-banana

product.

 

Gerber's third-stage fruit dessert has 64% of the potassium and 18% of

the fiber that is present in Gerber's plain third-stage fruit salad.

 

Heinz' peach cobbler has only 14% as much vitamin A, 30% as much

potassium, and 22% as much fiber as its plain first-stage peaches.

 

Beech-Nut's banana-yogurt dessert contains more calories than its plain

bananas, but only half the potassium (according to label data).

 

Furthermore, children's dietary preferences and habits are shaped early

in life. Gerber's current advertising states that " The first 24 months

are the most important months in developing tastes for a variety of

healthy foods. " Consumption of sugary desserts early in infancy may

encourage a life-long preference for highly sugared foods. The wide

variety of desserts offered by the leading brands appears to be more a

strategy to capture as much shelf space as possible than to provide

babies with the most nutritious foods.

 

 

Foods with Yogurt

 

Gerber, Heinz, Beech-Nut, and Earth's Best manufacture several

yogurt-containing products. Gerber sells second-stage " juices with

lowfat yogurt " and fruit-yogurt desserts. Heinz and Beech-Nut sell

yogurt desserts, and Earth's Best makes yogurt breakfast products.

Yogurt-containing products have obvious appeal to health-conscious

parents who perceive yogurt as a healthful food. The yogurt products do

add a little calcium to the diet. However, because all jarred baby foods

are held at high temperatures for up to an hour, the live bacteria that

give yogurt its special beneficial properties are killed.

 

 

Jarred and Instant Cereals

 

All five companies make jarred second-stage " cereals with fruit. "

Third-stage cereals include Gerber and Earth's Best jarred cereals with

fruit and Gerber's " yogurt cereals. " Gerber, Beech-Nut, and Heinz also

sell instant plain cereals and cereals with fruit. All brands of jarred

and instant cereals, except Earth's Best, are fortified with vitamins

and iron.

 

Gerber and Heinz' cereals with fruit all contain added sugar or

high-fructose corn syrup. Heinz' mixed cereal with apples and bananas

and Gerber's cereals (rice, oatmeal, and mixed cereal) with applesauce

and bananas contain more added sugar by weight than banana. The addition

of refined sugars to cereals is unnecessary. The fruits in these cereals

should provide sufficient sweetness to make them pleasant to babies.

Furthermore, the added sugars may encourage a preference for heavily

sweetened foods.

 

 

Meats

 

Gerber, Heinz, Beech-Nut, and Growing Healthy all manufacture at least 3

strained meat products that are made of a single type of meat and water

or broth. All four companies offer beef, turkey, and chicken products,

which do not differ significantly in nutritional value (data not shown).

Gerber, Beech-Nut, and Heinz also sell lamb and veal; Gerber offers ham;

and Heinz offers beef liver.

 

 

Taste

 

We are not aware of studies that compare the taste of different brands

of baby food. Independent studies should be done to determine if babies

prefer certain products over others and if that makes any difference in

their taste preferences when they begin eating regular solid foods.

(Fifteen adults at CSPI's offices participated in an informal taste

tests of Gerber, Growing Healthy, and Heinz' first-stage peas,

first-stage bananas, and second-stage vegetables-and-chicken dinners.

People generally preferred Growing Healthy products. However, adult

taste preferences may have nothing to do with the preferences of infants.)

 

 

Cost

 

New parents spend an average of $300 on baby food during their infant's

first year of life. Many parents spend much more, while a few never buy

prepared baby foods.

 

Among the leading brands, Beech-Nut and Heinz are often priced a few

cents less per jar than Gerber. However, the price of baby foods varies

considerably more from store to store. Some stores appear to price baby

foods (and other baby products) near their cost (or perhaps even below

cost) to get parents into the store. In a sample of supermarkets and

grocery stores in the Baltimore-Washington area, for example, 4-ounce

jars of Gerber and Heinz baby foods ranged in price from $0.33 to $0.66

per jar. Most area suburban supermarkets, however, charged $0.45 to

$0.50 for the 4-ounce second-stage foods, and 0.63 to $0.67 for 6-ounce

third-stage foods.

 

Earth's Best suggested retail prices are $0.63 per 4-ounce jar, and

$0.83 per 6-ounce jar. The suggested retail prices of Growing Healthy's

products are $0.79 per 4-ounce package of fruit(s) or vegetable(s),

$0.89 per 4-ounce second-stage dinner, and $1.19 per 6-ounce third-stage

dinner. According to the company, actual in-store prices for 4-ounce

fruits and vegetables range from $0.63 in Minneapolis to $0.89 in stores

in Los Angeles.

 

 

I. The Cost Of Dilution With Water And Starchy Fillers

 

Foods made with starchy fillers cheat babies and consumers while

increasing company profits. As discussed above, Gerber and Heinz replace

up to 70% of their second- and third-stage fruits with water and then

thicken them with chemically modified tapioca starch. They also add

starchy fillers to all their regular second- and third-stage dinners.

 

While the price per pound of chemically modified tapioca starch is

slightly more than that of bulk mashed bananas (tapioca starch: $0.60 to

$0.80; bananas: $0.49 to $0.55 per pound), much less of the starch is

needed to achieve a given consistency. Baby foods thickened with tapioca

contain no more than 5% to 7% modified food starch by weight., Thus, the

maximum amount of chemically modified starch required to thicken a

4-ounce jar of food would be 0.3 ounces, which would cost about 1 cent

per jar. The sucrose added to sweeten the diluted fruit would cost less

than 1/4 cent per jar. By contrast, to replace the water and starch in a

4-ounce jar of bananas with tapioca with bananas would require an

additional two ounces of bananas, at a cost of 7 to 10 cents. Thus

Gerber and Heinz probably save about 6 cents or more per 4-ounce jar of

fruit-with-tapioca product by substituting starch, sugar, and water for

fruit. Gerber's overall savings from replacing fruit with water and

starch is staggering. With bananas-with-tapioca products alone, Gerber

probably reaps at least $2.3 million in savings annually.

 

Beech-Nut, Growing Healthy, and Earth's Best do not dilute any fruit

product with chemically modified starch or other fillers. Each makes

plain bananas in 4-ounce and larger jars or packages. Beech-Nut's first-

and third-stage bananas in 4- and 6-ounce jars are the lowest priced,

and thus offer best value. Growing Healthy and Earth's Best also sell

plain bananas, apricots, and prunes, which generally still offer more

fruit per dollar than the fruits with tapioca made by Gerber and Heinz.

 

 

II. The Cost Of Innovative Products

 

The products made by the two new companies, Growing Healthy and Earth's

Best, are considerably more expensive per container, but offer benefits

that may, for many consumers, justify the additional expense. Growing

Healthy's fruits and vegetables cost about 60% more per ounce than

Gerber, its dinners almost 80% more. Growing Healthy's foods, however,

are likely to appeal to many parents who want better-tasting (at least

to adult palates) foods that are made without starchy fillers. Many of

its fruits, vegetables, and dinners are more nutritious than other

brands. Growing Healthy's fruits and vegetables, on average, contain

slightly more food value per ounce than Gerber and Heinz' plain

products, and considerably more than Gerber and Heinz' products that are

diluted with water and tapioca. Growing Healthy's dinners are roughly

twice as nutritious as comparable dinners made by Gerber and Heinz.

 

Earth's Best 4-ounce jars of baby food cost about 25% more than its

competitors' products. Earth's Best's dinners provide more protein and

vitamin A than the comparable products made by Gerber and Heinz. Earth's

Best uses no modified starches and minimal amounts of other thickening

agents. In addition, all of Earth's Best's foods are made with

organically grown ingredients, which is a definite plus for the

environment.

 

 

III. Cost Comparisons With Regular Foods

 

Baby foods are greatly overpriced compared to similar regular foods.

Examples include applesauce and fruit juices, as well as diced fruits

and vegetables for toddlers. The nutrient content and physical

characteristics of those baby foods do not differ significantly from

those for adults. However, the baby foods cost up to several times as

much per unit weight. Baby foods for which there is no direct comparison

in other grocery aisles are also priced very high. Gerber meats in

2.5-ounce jars, for example, cost $4.48 per pound in one Baltimore

supermarket (Giant).

 

 

Applesauce

 

Regular unsweetened applesauce costs much less than baby-food

applesauce. In a survey of four supermarket chains in the

Baltimore-Washington area, baby food applesauce was up to 2.4 times as

expensive as regular applesauce. The table below shows prices in one

supermarket.

 

BRAND SIZE COST PER POUND

Gerber 4-ounce jar $1.86

Mott's 4-ounce cup (6-pack) $1.33

Gerber 6-ounce jar $1.68

White House 48-ounce jar $0.69

 

Besides cost, texture is the only difference between applesauce for

babies and adults. Applesauce for babies is slightly denser and more

finely puréed, and thus has a smoother consistency. However, most babies

like regular applesauce just as much. If a baby rejects the less

expensive regular applesauce, a parent could then try a baby food

applesauce.

 

 

Fruit Juice

 

Gerber, Beech-Nut, and Heinz market fruit juices in 2.5-, 4-, and

32-ounce jars. These juices provide at least 100% of the Daily Value

(DV) for infants of vitamin C per serving. They are nutritionally

identical to regular fortified fruit juices, but cost much more (not all

regular fruit juices, however, are fortified with vitamin C):

 

At a Baltimore supermarket (Super Fresh), Mott's brand apple juice in 4

packs of 4.23-oz boxes cost $1.68 per quart, whereas Gerber juices in

4-ounce jars cost $3.56 per quart, or over twice as much.

 

At a major Washington, D.C., supermarket (Safeway), one-quart jars of

the store brand juice cost $1.29 and Mott's brand apple juice cost

$1.49. By contrast, Gerber's apple, pear, and other juices cost $2.29

per quart jar, or 78% more than Safeway's brand and 54% more than Mott's.

 

The cost of the added vitamin C does not account for or justify the

difference in the price of baby and regular unfortified fruit juices.

Companies pay less than cent per quart for enough vitamin C to ensure

that each 4-ounce serving provides 100% of the DV. Furthermore, the

added vitamin C is hardly essential to a child's diet, because juices

should never comprise a substantial amount of a baby's calorie intake,

and a child's other foods and vitamin drops should provide all the

needed vitamin C. (In fact, babies should consume minimal amounts of, if

any, fruit juice, because it replaces more nutritious milk or formula.)

 

 

Toddler Foods

 

Baby food companies continually seek ways to maintain or expand their

sales base. Gerber and Beech-Nut have extended their product lines to

include foods for toddlers. While some of those foods may provide busy

parents a better alternative than other canned foods (Spaghetti-O's and

the like), which tend to be loaded with sodium, toddler foods are

unnecessary. Toddlers can easily chew and swallow small portions of most

adult foods. Furthermore, many similar foods are already available in

stores at much lower prices. For example, Gerber's line of toddler

foods, Gerber Graduates, includes 4.5-ounce jars of vegetables and

fruits, such as peas and diced carrots, green beans, apples, and

peaches. In one Baltimore supermarket (Super Fresh) Gerber Graduate

diced fruits and vegetables cost roughly two to three times as much as

similar non-baby food products:

 

BRAND/PRODUCT SIZE PRICE PER POUND

Gerber Graduate diced vegetables (e.g., carrots, green beans, peas)

4.5-ounce jar $1.78

America's Choice no-salt-added sliced carrots 14.5 ounce can $0.55

Del Monte no-salt-added cut green beans 8-ounce can $0.89

Del Monte no-salt added peas 17-ounce can $0.60

Gerber Graduate diced fruits (apples, peaches, pears) 4.5 ounce jar $2.24

America's Choice fruit " Lite Fruit Cocktail " 16-ounce can $0.93

Del Monte peaches in pear juice 16-ounce can $0.99

 

Furthermore, fresh fruits and vegetables are sometimes cheaper and

certainly taste better and are more nutritious than processed products.

 

REGULATION OF BABY FOOD LABELING

 

The labels on baby foods are generally subject to the same regulations

as regular foods. However, unlike regular foods, it is impossible for

the consumer to estimate amounts of important ingredients by the foods'

appearance, because baby foods are strained, puréed, and blended foods

and food combinations. Thus, consumers must thus rely on the name of the

food to make their purchasing decisions. They may assume that the

ingredients emphasized on the label, for example, vegetables and

chicken, are present in larger amounts than they actually are. While

labels list ingredients in order of predominance, they provide only a

rough guide as to the actual amounts of the ingredients. Consumers are

certainly not told that chemically modified starch, rice flour, wheat

flour, and similar substances replace the valuable and characterizing

ingredient(s).

 

In 1975, to facilitate informed choices, CSPI petitioned the FDA to

require the disclosure of the percentage of all characterizing

ingredients on the front labels of baby foods and to disclose the

percentage of each ingredient on the ingredient label. In 1976, the FDA

responded favorably to CSPI's petition and proposed to institute such

requirements. The agency stated:

 

The Commissioner agrees that most labels currently used on infant and

junior foods do not inform the consumer about the amount of

characterizing ingredients(s). The Commissioner also agrees that the

proportion of characterizing ingredient in infant and junior foods,

i.e., those ingredients listed in the name of the food or otherwise

featured on the label, may have a material bearing on price and consumer

acceptance. . . . The Commissioner also agrees that there is a potential

for deception because the ingredient(s) listed in the name of infant and

junior foods may appear to be present in greater amounts than is

actually the case.

 

In 1991, after two decades of inaction, the FDA withdrew that proposal

as part of a larger effort to clear its dockets of proposed regulations

that had never been finalized.

 

It is clear that parents still need help in choosing the most healthful

foods for their babies. Disclosure of the characterizing ingredients(s)

on the front of the label and percentage-ingredient labeling on the side

or back of the label would give parents the tools. Thus, one product

might indicate on the front label " 85 percent bananas, " while another

might state " 50 percent bananas. " Some companies would probably say that

such labeling would reveal trade secrets, but the fact is that the only

secret today is from parents--competitors know roughly what each other

makes. It is also possible that certain companies, such as Beech-Nut and

Growing Healthy, would favor percentage labeling, because it would give

them a competitive tool. In any case, percentage labeling would

encourage companies to compete on the basis of quality.

 

 

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