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How toxic is your bathroom?

Be warned: your daily beauty regime could be taking years off your

life. Pat Thomas reports on the chemical timebomb in your cosmetics

cabinet

Published: 24 October 2005

Earlier this year, the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) did

something amazing. It issued an unprecedented warning to the

cosmetics industry that it was time to inform consumers that most

personal care products have not been safety tested.

 

Where the US goes, the UK inevitably follows. If the FDA starts the

ball rolling by flexing its muscles, it is possible that in the not

too distant future 99 per cent of personal care products could be

required to carry a caution on the label: " Warning: The safety of

this product has not been determined. "

 

What concerns scientists at the FDA and at environmental health

organisations throughout the world is the " cocktail effect " - the

daily mixing of many different types of toxins in and on the body -

and how this might damage health over the longer term.

 

On average, we each use nine personal care products a day containing

126 different ingredients. Such " safety " testing as exists looks for

reactions, such as skin redness, rashes or stinging, but does not

investigate potential long-term problems for either humans or the

environment. Yet the chemicals that go into products such as shampoos

and hand creams are not trace contaminants. They are the basic

ingredients.

 

Absorbed into the body, they can be stored in fatty tissue or organs

such as the liver, kidney, reproductive organs and brain. Cosmetics

companies complain of unfounded hysteria, but scientists are finding

industrial plasticisers such as phthalates in urine, preservatives

known as parabens in breast-tumour tissue, and antibacterials such as

Triclosan and fragrance chemicals like the hormone-disrupting musk

xylene in human breast milk. Medical research is proving that

fragrances can trigger asthma; that the detergents in shampoos can

damage eye tissue; and that hair-dye chemicals can cause bladder

cancer and lymphoma. An even greater number of substances in personal

care products are suspected to present potential risks to human

health from this known effect on animals.

 

If these problems had been linked to pharmaceutical drugs, the

products would have been taken off the market. At the very least,

money would have been spent on safety studies. But because the

cosmetics industry is largely self-governing, and because we all want

to believe in the often hollow promises of better skin and whiter

teeth, products containing potentially harmful substances remain in

use and on sale. Think it can't be that bad? Consider what goes into

some of the UK's most popular toiletries.

 

OLAY REGENERIST

 

What they claim: Instantly improves the appearance of fine lines and

wrinkles.

 

But watch out: To work, the product needs to be well absorbed, so

Regenerist contains penetration enhancers like disodium EDTA. But

these also drive toxins deeper into the skin. Watch out for hormone

disrupters such as ethylparaben, methylparaben and propylparaben and

potential carcinogens such as polyacrylamide, triethanolamine (which

can form cancer-causing nitrosamines), and the artificial colours CI

16035, CI 19140 and PTFE (Teflon). Regenerist contains the sunscreens

butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (B-MDM) and ethylhexyl salicylate; not

enough for an SPF rating, but potentially enough to irritate skin.

 

CLAIROL HERBAL ESSENCES SHAMPOO DRY/DAMAGED HAIR

 

What they claim: A totally organic experience.

 

But watch out: It looks and smells appealing because it is coloured

using four potentially cancer-causing dyes (CI 17200, CI 15510, CI

42053, CI 60730) and perfumed with synthetic fragrances that are

known neurotoxins and skin irritants. Among its detergents, sodium

lauryl sulphate can irritate skin and permanently damage eye tissue,

and sodium laureth sulphate and cocamide MEA can be contaminated with

1,4-dioxane, a hormone disrupter associated with breast cancer.

Cocamidopropyl betaine, another detergent, is a penetration enhancer,

as is the solvent propyelel glycol and the preservative tetrasodium

EDTA; all allow other chemicals to pene- trate more deeply into skin

and bloodstream.

 

JOHNSON'S BABY SOFTWASH

 

What they claim: Best for baby, best for you.

 

But watch out: Children's skin is thinner and more absorbent than

adults', so is a less effective barrier to chemical toxins. The rates

of eczema and allergies among children are on the rise and the early

introduction of toiletries on to sensitive skin may be a factor. When

soap does the job, why expose your child to skin and eye irritants

such as sorbitan laurate, cocamidopropyl betaine and acrylates/C10-30

alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, or PEG-150 distearate, PEG-80, PEG-14M

and sodium laureth sulphate that can be contaminated with the

carcinogens 1,4 dioxane and ethylene oxide, or hormone disrupters

such as parabens? In addition, there's nothing here that naturally

moisturises the skin - only synthetic polymers (plastic-like

substances) like polyquaternium-7 and polypropylene terephthalate

that coat it, merely giving the impression of smoothness.

 

CALVIN KLEIN'S ETERNITY

 

What they claim: What the world needs now is love.

 

But watch out: Perfumes are made from the same neurotoxic solvents

found in glues and adhesives and volatile chemicals common in garages

and factories, albeit in much smaller concentrations. Eternity

contains a staggering 41 ingredients, about 80 per cent of which have

never been tested for safety in humans. The rest are known

neurotoxins, allergens, irritants and/or hormone disrupters. Still

think perfume is sexy?

 

LYNX DRY

 

What they claim: Spray more, get more.

 

But watch out: Lynx Dry contains three types of neurotoxins: solvents

such as PPG-14 butyl ether; the propellants butane, isobutane and

propane; and synthetic fragrance chemicals. It contains a

preservative BHT (butylated hydroxytoluene), which has been linked

with cancer, and PEG-8 distearate, which can be contaminated with the

hormone-disrupting carcinogens ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane as well

as polycyclic aromatic compounds such as benzene and benz(a)pyrene.

Aluminium zirconium tetrachlorohydrex GLY and aluminium chlorohydrate

work by clogging pores, but long exposure to aluminium-containing

deodorants raises the risk of diseases such as Alzheimer's.

 

COLGATE TOTAL

 

What they claim: 12-hour fresh breath and antibacterial protection.

 

But watch out: Conventional toothpastes often contain irritating

detergents like sodium lauryl sulphate, which can cause sore gums and

mouth ulcers, and abrasives like hydrated silica, which can erode

tooth enamel. Total contains a glue-like substance, PVM/MA copolymer,

that sticks the active ingredients to teeth. Saccharin, a known

carcinogen in animals, is also found. The colouring CI 42090 (banned

in Austria, Belgium, France, Germany, Norway, Switzerland and Sweden)

causes cancer in animals. Total contains Triclosan, an antibacterial

agent that can in certain circumstances combine with chlorine in tap

water to produce chloroform gas, which is easily absorbed into the

skin or inhaled and can cause depression, liver problems and cancer.

 

GILLETTE MACH 3 SHAVING GEL

 

What they claim: The best a man can get.

 

But watch out: Helped by a global advertising campaign featuring

David Beckham, Gillette shaving products have carved their way into

the male psyche. If he thought about the ingredients, would

the " epitome of the well groomed man " be so keen to promote the

product? Mach 3 gel contains skin irritants such as triethanolamine,

palmitic acid glyceryl oleate, three potential carcinogens

(polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon), BHT, CI 42090) and three central

nervous system toxins or pollutants (isopentane, parfum and

isobutane).

 

CLAIROL NICE 'N EASY

 

What they claim: Natural-looking colour with complete grey coverage.

 

But watch out: All hair dye sold in the EU containing

phenylenediamines, resorcinol and/or 1-naphthol must carry a

warning: " Can cause an allergic reaction. Do not use to colour

eyelashes or eyebrows. " Other hair dye ingredients - including coal

tar dyes, 4-chloro-m-phenylenediamine, 2,4-toluenediamine, 2-nitro-p-

phenylenediamine and 4-amino-2-nitrophenol - have proven carcinogenic

in at least one animal species. In humans, intensive longer-term use

of permanent hair dye is associated with breast, ovarian and bladder

cancer, non-Hodgkin's lymphoma, multiple meyeloma and rheumatoid

arthritis.

 

RADOX BUBBLE BATH

 

What they claim: Soothes emotions, cleanses the body.

 

But watch out: Soaking in hot water increases skin permeability and

helps vaporise chemicals in products, making them more easily

inhaled. Radox Relax contains potential skin irritants (sodium

laureth sulphate, cocamidopropyl betaine) potential carcinogens such

as the preservative combo methylchloro-isothiazolinone and

methylisothiazolinone and synthetic dyes, and hormone-disrupting

ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate. It contains perfume ingredients that are

capable of irritating (coumarin, benzyl salicylate, limonene) and

disrupting the central nervous system (butylphenyl methylpropional,

alpha-isomethyl ionone, linalool).

 

NIVEA BODY

 

What they claim: Feel the essential care.

 

But watch out: Along with semi-synthetic fatty acids and waxes, Nivea

Body contains denatured alcohol and glycerine, which can dry skin

with repeated use. It also contains several estrogenic preservatives

(methylparaben, butylparaben, ethylparaben, isobutylparaben,

propylparaben), contact allergens (phenoxy-ethanol, linalool,

citronellol, hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene carcoxaldehyde) and a

potential carcinogen (limonene). Film-formers like dimethicone keep

undesirable ingredients next to the skin longer. About one-third of

the listed ingredients are fragrances that are known irritants and

sensitisers of human skin; chemicals that, with repeated exposure,

can trigger allergic reactions.

 

CLEARASIL 3-IN-1 DEEP CLEANING WASH

 

What they claim: Clinically proven to help fight spots.

 

But watch out: A mix of strong detergents and surfactants (sodium

lauryl sulfate, cetyl betaine, distearyl-dimonium chloride and

steareth-21), chemical exfoliants (salicylic acid) and solvents

(glycerin, alcohol, menthol) that are capable of removing the skin's

natural oils, and synthetic skin conditioners for repairing some of

the damage inflicted by the other ingredients. It contains two

potential carcinogens (BHT and disodium EDTA) and fragrance

ingredients among the most commonly reported contact allergens in the

EU (behenyl alcohol, limonene benzyl salicylate, linalool and hexyl

cinnamal). These so consistently lead to skin problems that they must

now be listed separately on labels within the EU.

 

LISTERINE TEETH AND GUM DEFENCE

 

What they claim: Kills the germs that cause plaque and bad breath.

 

But watch out: This mouthwash is 21.6 per cent alcohol. Alcohol dries

and changes the pH of the mouth and throat and long-term use of

alcohol-containing mouthwashes increases the risk of mouth and throat

cancers. Listerine also contains a mild detergent, poloxamer 407,

that is soluble in liquids at low temperatures but turns to a gel at

higher temperatures (ie, body temperature). That makes it a film-

former, " glueing " other ingredients on to the surfaces of the mouth

for longer. Fluoride in quantity is poisonous if swallowed, and the

sweetener saccharin causes bladder cancer in animals. Finally,

synthetic colours, aromas and flavours are made from volatile

solvents that can alter the basic flora of the mouth and may cause

dermatitis.

 

Pat Thomas is health editor of The Ecologist. Her series 'Behind the

Label' appears in the magazine every month (www.theecologist.org)

 

Earlier this year, the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) did

something amazing. It issued an unprecedented warning to the

cosmetics industry that it was time to inform consumers that most

personal care products have not been safety tested.

 

Where the US goes, the UK inevitably follows. If the FDA starts the

ball rolling by flexing its muscles, it is possible that in the not

too distant future 99 per cent of personal care products could be

required to carry a caution on the label: " Warning: The safety of

this product has not been determined. "

 

What concerns scientists at the FDA and at environmental health

organisations throughout the world is the " cocktail effect " - the

daily mixing of many different types of toxins in and on the body -

and how this might damage health over the longer term.

 

On average, we each use nine personal care products a day containing

126 different ingredients. Such " safety " testing as exists looks for

reactions, such as skin redness, rashes or stinging, but does not

investigate potential long-term problems for either humans or the

environment. Yet the chemicals that go into products such as shampoos

and hand creams are not trace contaminants. They are the basic

ingredients.

 

Absorbed into the body, they can be stored in fatty tissue or organs

such as the liver, kidney, reproductive organs and brain. Cosmetics

companies complain of unfounded hysteria, but scientists are finding

industrial plasticisers such as phthalates in urine, preservatives

known as parabens in breast-tumour tissue, and antibacterials such as

Triclosan and fragrance chemicals like the hormone-disrupting musk

xylene in human breast milk. Medical research is proving that

fragrances can trigger asthma; that the detergents in shampoos can

damage eye tissue; and that hair-dye chemicals can cause bladder

cancer and lymphoma. An even greater number of substances in personal

care products are suspected to present potential risks to human

health from this known effect on animals.

 

If these problems had been linked to pharmaceutical drugs, the

products would have been taken off the market. At the very least,

money would have been spent on safety studies. But because the

cosmetics industry is largely self-governing, and because we all want

to believe in the often hollow promises of better skin and whiter

teeth, products containing potentially harmful substances remain in

use and on sale. Think it can't be that bad? Consider what goes into

some of the UK's most popular toiletries.

 

OLAY REGENERIST

 

What they claim: Instantly improves the appearance of fine lines and

wrinkles.

 

But watch out: To work, the product needs to be well absorbed, so

Regenerist contains penetration enhancers like disodium EDTA. But

these also drive toxins deeper into the skin. Watch out for hormone

disrupters such as ethylparaben, methylparaben and propylparaben and

potential carcinogens such as polyacrylamide, triethanolamine (which

can form cancer-causing nitrosamines), and the artificial colours CI

16035, CI 19140 and PTFE (Teflon). Regenerist contains the sunscreens

butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (B-MDM) and ethylhexyl salicylate; not

enough for an SPF rating, but potentially enough to irritate skin.

 

CLAIROL HERBAL ESSENCES SHAMPOO DRY/DAMAGED HAIR

 

What they claim: A totally organic experience.

 

But watch out: It looks and smells appealing because it is coloured

using four potentially cancer-causing dyes (CI 17200, CI 15510, CI

42053, CI 60730) and perfumed with synthetic fragrances that are

known neurotoxins and skin irritants. Among its detergents, sodium

lauryl sulphate can irritate skin and permanently damage eye tissue,

and sodium laureth sulphate and cocamide MEA can be contaminated with

1,4-dioxane, a hormone disrupter associated with breast cancer.

Cocamidopropyl betaine, another detergent, is a penetration enhancer,

as is the solvent propyelel glycol and the preservative tetrasodium

EDTA; all allow other chemicals to pene- trate more deeply into skin

and bloodstream.

 

JOHNSON'S BABY SOFTWASH

 

What they claim: Best for baby, best for you.

 

But watch out: Children's skin is thinner and more absorbent than

adults', so is a less effective barrier to chemical toxins. The rates

of eczema and allergies among children are on the rise and the early

introduction of toiletries on to sensitive skin may be a factor. When

soap does the job, why expose your child to skin and eye irritants

such as sorbitan laurate, cocamidopropyl betaine and acrylates/C10-30

alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, or PEG-150 distearate, PEG-80, PEG-14M

and sodium laureth sulphate that can be contaminated with the

carcinogens 1,4 dioxane and ethylene oxide, or hormone disrupters

such as parabens? In addition, there's nothing here that naturally

moisturises the skin - only synthetic polymers (plastic-like

substances) like polyquaternium-7 and polypropylene terephthalate

that coat it, merely giving the impression of smoothness.

 

CALVIN KLEIN'S ETERNITY

 

What they claim: What the world needs now is love.

 

But watch out: Perfumes are made from the same neurotoxic solvents

found in glues and adhesives and volatile chemicals common in garages

and factories, albeit in much smaller concentrations. Eternity

contains a staggering 41 ingredients, about 80 per cent of which have

never been tested for safety in humans. The rest are known

neurotoxins, allergens, irritants and/or hormone disrupters. Still

think perfume is sexy?

 

LYNX DRY

 

What they claim: Spray more, get more.

 

But watch out: Lynx Dry contains three types of neurotoxins: solvents

such as PPG-14 butyl ether; the propellants butane, isobutane and

propane; and synthetic fragrance chemicals. It contains a

preservative BHT (butylated hydroxytoluene), which has been linked

with cancer, and PEG-8 distearate, which can be contaminated with the

hormone-disrupting carcinogens ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane as well

as polycyclic aromatic compounds such as benzene and benz(a)pyrene.

Aluminium zirconium tetrachlorohydrex GLY and aluminium chlorohydrate

work by clogging pores, but long exposure to aluminium-containing

deodorants raises the risk of diseases such as Alzheimer's.

 

COLGATE TOTAL

 

What they claim: 12-hour fresh breath and antibacterial protection.

 

But watch out: Conventional toothpastes often contain irritating

detergents like sodium lauryl sulphate, which can cause sore gums and

mouth ulcers, and abrasives like hydrated silica, which can erode

tooth enamel. Total contains a glue-like substance, PVM/MA copolymer,

that sticks the active ingredients to teeth. Saccharin, a known

carcinogen in animals, is also found. The colouring CI 42090 (banned

in Austria, Belgium, France, Germany, Norway, Switzerland and Sweden)

causes cancer in animals. Total contains Triclosan, an antibacterial

agent that can in certain circumstances combine with chlorine in tap

water to produce chloroform gas, which is easily absorbed into the

skin or inhaled and can cause depression, liver problems and cancer.

 

GILLETTE MACH 3 SHAVING GEL

 

What they claim: The best a man can get.

 

But watch out: Helped by a global advertising campaign featuring

David Beckham, Gillette shaving products have carved their way into

the male psyche. If he thought about the ingredients, would

the " epitome of the well groomed man " be so keen to promote the

product? Mach 3 gel contains skin irritants such as triethanolamine,

palmitic acid glyceryl oleate, three potential carcinogens

(polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon), BHT, CI 42090) and three central

nervous system toxins or pollutants (isopentane, parfum and

isobutane).

 

CLAIROL NICE 'N EASY

 

What they claim: Natural-looking colour with complete grey coverage.

 

But watch out: All hair dye sold in the EU containing

phenylenediamines, resorcinol and/or 1-naphthol must carry a

warning: " Can cause an allergic reaction. Do not use to colour

eyelashes or eyebrows. " Other hair dye ingredients - including coal

tar dyes, 4-chloro-m-phenylenediamine, 2,4-toluenediamine, 2-nitro-p-

phenylenediamine and 4-amino-2-nitrophenol - have proven carcinogenic

in at least one animal species. In humans, intensive longer-term use

of permanent hair dye is associated with breast, ovarian and bladder

cancer, non-Hodgkin's lymphoma, multiple meyeloma and rheumatoid

arthritis.

 

RADOX BUBBLE BATH

 

What they claim: Soothes emotions, cleanses the body.

 

But watch out: Soaking in hot water increases skin permeability and

helps vaporise chemicals in products, making them more easily

inhaled. Radox Relax contains potential skin irritants (sodium

laureth sulphate, cocamidopropyl betaine) potential carcinogens such

as the preservative combo methylchloro-isothiazolinone and

methylisothiazolinone and synthetic dyes, and hormone-disrupting

ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate. It contains perfume ingredients that are

capable of irritating (coumarin, benzyl salicylate, limonene) and

disrupting the central nervous system (butylphenyl methylpropional,

alpha-isomethyl ionone, linalool).

 

NIVEA BODY

 

What they claim: Feel the essential care.

 

But watch out: Along with semi-synthetic fatty acids and waxes, Nivea

Body contains denatured alcohol and glycerine, which can dry skin

with repeated use. It also contains several estrogenic preservatives

(methylparaben, butylparaben, ethylparaben, isobutylparaben,

propylparaben), contact allergens (phenoxy-ethanol, linalool,

citronellol, hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene carcoxaldehyde) and a

potential carcinogen (limonene). Film-formers like dimethicone keep

undesirable ingredients next to the skin longer. About one-third of

the listed ingredients are fragrances that are known irritants and

sensitisers of human skin; chemicals that, with repeated exposure,

can trigger allergic reactions.

 

CLEARASIL 3-IN-1 DEEP CLEANING WASH

 

What they claim: Clinically proven to help fight spots.

 

But watch out: A mix of strong detergents and surfactants (sodium

lauryl sulfate, cetyl betaine, distearyl-dimonium chloride and

steareth-21), chemical exfoliants (salicylic acid) and solvents

(glycerin, alcohol, menthol) that are capable of removing the skin's

natural oils, and synthetic skin conditioners for repairing some of

the damage inflicted by the other ingredients. It contains two

potential carcinogens (BHT and disodium EDTA) and fragrance

ingredients among the most commonly reported contact allergens in the

EU (behenyl alcohol, limonene benzyl salicylate, linalool and hexyl

cinnamal). These so consistently lead to skin problems that they must

now be listed separately on labels within the EU.

 

LISTERINE TEETH AND GUM DEFENCE

 

What they claim: Kills the germs that cause plaque and bad breath.

 

But watch out: This mouthwash is 21.6 per cent alcohol. Alcohol dries

and changes the pH of the mouth and throat and long-term use of

alcohol-containing mouthwashes increases the risk of mouth and throat

cancers. Listerine also contains a mild detergent, poloxamer 407,

that is soluble in liquids at low temperatures but turns to a gel at

higher temperatures (ie, body temperature). That makes it a film-

former, " glueing " other ingredients on to the surfaces of the mouth

for longer. Fluoride in quantity is poisonous if swallowed, and the

sweetener saccharin causes bladder cancer in animals. Finally,

synthetic colours, aromas and flavours are made from volatile

solvents that can alter the basic flora of the mouth and may cause

dermatitis.

 

Pat Thomas is health editor of The Ecologist. Her series 'Behind the

Label' appears in the magazine every month (www.theecologist.org)

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