Guest guest Posted May 6, 2004 Report Share Posted May 6, 2004 Why Taurine is Importantby Dr. Shawn Messonnier Common use: Heart disease Taurine is a beta amino acid required by cats but not dogs. There are two reasons for this. First, the liver of the cat has a limited ability to make taurine, as the rate-limiting enzymes required for converting methionine and cysteine to taurine are only minimally active in the feline liver. Second, cats lose taurine in the secretion of bile acids (whereas other mammals also use glycine in the conjugation and secretion of bile acids, freeing up taurine for other uses). Found in the nervous system (including the retina) and muscles (especially the heart), taurine is one of the most abundant amino acids in the body (and is the most abundant free amino acid in the heart). It is thought to help regulate heartbeat, maintain cell membranes, and affect the release of neurotransmitters in the brain. Taurine also protects the heart from calcium overload and assists in calcium uptake by the heart cells during periods of hypoxia (reduced oxygen levels). - Sylvia herbal remedies Wednesday, May 05, 2004 2:00 PM Re: Herbal Remedies - dog food labels There would have to be dried fish for any mixture for cats.Taurine is key for cat vision. Also, i am not sure what would help, but cats (typically male cats) are prone to urinary infections, so this should be considered as well as FUR BALLS!!!!!!!!! Oils would address that issue thoughSylviaherbal remedies , "Caroline" <ladyguinevere@e...> wrote:> Yes, vegetables are a very important part of a dogs diet...they just need to have the meat as well. I don't believe in putting a dog on a vegetarian diet because it is against their natural tendencies. I do like the idea of the dog food you are thinking about. One thing that is very good and important for their coat is fish oils. Maybe consider adding some type of dried fish to the mix. > > Caroline> - > Sylvia > herbal remedies > Wednesday, May 05, 2004 1:39 PM> Re: Herbal Remedies - dog food labels> > > So it would be dehydrated meat then LOL?????> (and maybe some vitamins tossed in)> > I have read much recently on dogs and cats being allergic to wheat, > so having a product that does not contain wheat might be good, > although perhaps sprouted wheat might work.> > The pet food we switched to has less grain in it and more meat and > bone meals. Last week there was much talk about raw meat and bones > and so something dehydrated with ground meat, bone and supplements > would be cool.> > I have found that my dog really enjoys veggies, and so we give them > to him often (both cooked and raw) Perhaps that could be added to the > mix. We had recently been discussing a mix we could make for our > puppy and dehyrating or baking, so i really like this idea> > Sylvia> > In herbal remedies , <zeb@A...> wrote:> > Pam,> > > > Thank you very much. I have been working with Doc in trying to > come up with a Raw dehydrated pet food that was ALL organic and only > what dogs need not what we "think" they need. If anyone has > suggestions or know of studies regarding dog and cat foods please let > me know.> > > > Love,,> > Zeb> > - > > pam > > herbal remedies > > Tuesday, May 04, 2004 12:10 AM> > Herbal Remedies - dog food labels> > > > > > > > > > http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?> cls=2 & cat=1661 & articleid=668> > > > > > Dog Food Labels> > Veterinary & Aquatic Services Department, Drs. Foster & Smith, > Inc. > > > > > > Q. What do dog food labels mean?> > > > A. Reading your pet food label is one of the best ways to > determine > > the quality of the food you are feeding. The ingredients and the > > guaranteed analysis (amounts of protein, fat, carbohydrates, > fiber, > > and other nutrients) are included on the food label. In addition > to > > providing information about the amount and quality of protein and > > fat, the label will also alert you of any unwanted preservatives > and > > give general feeding guidelines. > > A few other things to consider are the price. Calculate out the > > price per pound or the price per day. Almost always, dry food is > > more economical, and the larger the bag the lower the price per > > pound. Many times, a 40-pound bag is less than half as much per > > pound than an equivalent 5-pound bag. Remember that with lower > > quality foods you feed more and it may not always be cheaper. On > the > > other hand, some of the higher priced foods, especially foods > sold > > only through veterinarians, may not be as good as the less > expensive > > more easily obtainable food. Check the ingredients, they will > tell > > the real story. Most pets do not need specialty foods, just > quality > > food. By understanding this article and looking at a few pet food > > labels you will be able to find the best food for your pet.> > > > Converting dry matter basis> > > > This can be the hard part. All pet foods have different levels of > > moisture. Canned foods can have up to 80% moisture whereas, some > dry > > foods can have as little as 6%. This is important for 2 reasons. > The > > first is that the food is priced by the pound, and when you buy > dog > > food that is 80% water you get 20% food and the rest is water. So > > the amount of food your pet consumes is small and expensive. The > > other reason for understanding percent moisture is to help you > > compare crude protein and fat between brands and between canned > and > > dry. The listings on the label are for the food as it is, not as > it > > would be on a dry matter basis. So without converting both brands > of > > food to a dry matter basis you will not be able to compare them > > accurately. Fortunately, the conversion is not that complicated.> > > > If a dry dog food has 10% moisture we know that it has 90% dry > > matter. So we look at the label and check the protein level that > > reads 20%. Next, we divide the 20 percent protein by the 90% dry > > matter and we get 22%, which is the amount of protein on a dry > > matter basis. Does this make sense so far? Good. Now let us > compare > > this to canned food that has 80% moisture. We know that with 80% > > moisture we have 20% dry matter. The label shows 5% protein. So > we > > take the 5% and divide it by 20% and we get 25% protein on a dry > > matter basis. So the canned food has more protein per pound on a > dry > > matter basis after all the water is taken out. We can do the same > > for fat, fiber, etc.> > > > Guaranteed analysis> > > > The guaranteed analysis on the information panel of the dog food > > label lists the minimum levels of crude protein and fat and the > > maximum levels of fiber and water. The protein and fat are listed > as > > crude sources and not as digestible sources. The digestibility of > > protein and fat can vary widely depending on their sources. The > list > > of ingredients should be examined closely to determine how > > digestible the sources are (see articles on protein and fat for > more > > explanation). The other factor in determining actual protein and > fat > > percentages is the amount of moisture present in the food as > > discussed earlier. While the guaranteed analysis is a start in > > understanding the quality of the food, be very careful about > relying > > on it too much. A pet food manufacturer made a mock product that > had > > a guaranteed analysis of 10% protein, 6.5% fat, 2.4% fiber, and > 68% > > moisture, similar to what you see on many canned pet food labels. > > The only problem, was that the ingredients were old leather work > > boots, used motor oil, crushed coal, and water!> > > > Ingredient list> > > > All pet foods must list the ingredients present in the food. The > > ingredients must be listed in order of weight. This is one of the > > best ways to determine the quality of the food. With a little > > knowledge of the ingredients, you can choose a food that is > highly > > digestible and free of unwanted products. Be careful of one > tactic > > used by manufacturers to disguise less desirable ingredients. > > Breaking an ingredient into several different smaller ingredients > > and listing them individually is used to lower these undesirable > > ingredients farther down the ingredient list. For example, a > product > > list could contain chicken, ground corn, corn gluten, ground > wheat, > > corn bran, wheat flour, wheat middling, etc. If we were to group > all > > of the corn ingredients as one, they would probably far out-weigh > > the amount of chicken, and wheat. As a consumer, you must read > all > > of the ingredients carefully including the ingredients at the > end, > > to know the type of preservatives and colorings that are used. I > > have listed a few of the more common ingredients and their > > definitions.> > > > Meat: Meat is the clean flesh of slaughtered animals (chicken, > > cattle, lamb, turkey, etc.). The flesh can include striated > skeletal > > muscle, tongue, diaphragm, heart, esophagus, overlying fat and > the > > skin, sinew, nerves and blood vessels normally found with that > flesh.> > > > Meat By-products: Meat by-products are clean parts of slaughtered > > animals, not including meat. These include lungs, spleen, > kidneys, > > brain, liver, blood, bone, and stomach and intestines freed of > their > > contents. It does not include hair, horns, teeth, or hooves.> > > > Poultry By-products: Poultry by-products are clean parts of > > slaughtered poultry such as heads, feet, and internal organs > (like > > heart, lungs, liver, kidneys, abdomen, and intestines). It does > not > > contain feathers.> > > > Fish Meal: Fish meal is the clean ground tissue of undecomposed > > whole fish or fish cuttings, with or without the oil extracted.> > > > Beef Tallow: Beef tallow is fat derived from beef.> > > > Ground Corn: Ground corn is the entire corn kernel ground or > chopped.> > > > Corn Gluten Meal: Corn gluten meal is the by-product after the > > manufacture of corn syrup or starch, and is the dried residue > after > > the removal of the bran, germ, and starch.> > > > Brewers Rice: Brewers rice is the small fragments of rice kernels > > that have been separated from larger kernels of milled rice.> > > > Brown Rice: Brown rice is the unpolished rice left over after the > > kernels have been removed.> > > > Soybean Meal: Soybean meal is a by-product of the production of > > soybean oil.> > > > BHA: BHA is butylated hydroxyanisole, a fat preservative.> > > > Ethoxyquin: Ethoxyquin is a chemical preservative that is used to > > prevent spoilage in dog food.> > > > Tocopherols: Tocopherols (e.g., vitamin E) are naturally > occurring > > compounds used as natural preservatives.> > > > The AAFCO standards> > > > 'AAFCO' stands for the Association of American Feed Control > > Officials. The AAFCO develops guidelines for the production, > > labeling, and sale of animal foods. These are called the AAFCO > > standards. AAFCO has developed two standards which pet foods > should > > meet. Pet foods which meet the AAFCO's requirements will include > one > > of two statements on their label.> > > > The first and lower standard states 'formulated to meet AAFCO's > > nutrient requirement.' This means the food was tested in the > > laboratory and was found to have the recommended amounts of > protein, > > fat, etc. But as mentioned above, the combination of shoe > leather, > > used motor oil, and coal would meet this standard.> > > > The second standard states something like 'animal-feeding tests > > using AAFCO's procedures substantiate that this product provides > > complete and balanced nutrition.' For a pet food to be able to > carry > > this label, it had to be tested on a population of animals for > six > > months and shown to provide adequate nutrition. But even with > this > > statement, there are problems with its interpretation. If one > > particular product in a manufacturer's line was tested and found > to > > meet this standard, the company is allowed to include this same > > statement on other products in the same 'family' which provide > equal > > or greater concentrations of all the nutrients. So even if the > pet > > food carries this AAFCO food trial statement on its label, you > can > > not be sure that specific product was actually tested in a food > > trial. In addition, testing a food for six months is not an > adequate > > amount of time to determine if deficiencies or other long term > > effects may occur after feeding the product a year or more. > Despite > > these problems with the interpretation of this AAFCO food trial > > statement, having the statement on a pet food label at least > shows > > the company has made some attempt to develop a good food.> > > > Feeding instructions> > > > Feeding instructions or guidelines are included on most every bag > > and most cans of pet foods. These guidelines give the recommended > > amount to be fed based on growth level and weight. I would remind > > owners that these are very rough guidelines. Every animal has a > > different level of activity, metabolism, and ambient > environmental > > temperature. In addition, breed, age, and other environmental > > stresses all impact daily requirements. I encourage you to use > these > > guidelines as rough starting points. If your animal is thin or > > hungry, feed it more often and in greater quantity. If your pet > is > > obese, feed it less. I cannot begin to count the number of > clients > > that have complained of a hungry, thin, or obese dog and after > being > > questioned about it found that they were feeding the recommended > > amount on the bag and were afraid to deviate from it. This is an > > area where common sense is much more important than science.> > > > Summary> > > > One of the most common questions that I get is what is the best > pet > > food on the market? I can honestly say that there is not one. The > > very fact that there are so many types and brands on the market > > shows that there are hundreds of options and opinions. Some dogs > > need higher fat and protein than others. Feed what is appropriate > > for your pet: puppies need puppy food and cats need cat food. Do > not > > switch brands every month, but do not be afraid to switch brands > and > > find one that your pet does well on. I have seen medical problems > > from dogs fed the cheaper generic foods, and some farm store and > > department store brands. If you are feeding a pet food that can > only > > be purchased from a veterinarian, read the label closely and then > > compare it to some of the premium brands on the market. Then > check > > the price. You may be in for a big surprise! You do not always > get > > what you pay for.> > > > The other question I get is, 'what do I feed my pets?' I can tell > > you that I feed my dog a premium national brand that is chicken > and > > rice and sells for around 73 cents a pound. I feed my cats a > premium > > brand that is formulated to help reduce cystitis and urinary > > problems, which sells for twice of what my dog food costs, but my > > cats eat very little and do great on it. I always feed dry food > and > > free choice. Feeding table scraps and treats have to be > considered > > in the overall diet and are discussed more thoroughly in their > > separate articles.> > > > > > References and Further Reading> > > > > > Palika, L. The Consumer's Guide To Dog Food. Howell Book House of > > Simon & Schuster/Macmillan Company. New York, NY; 1996.> > > > Ralston Purina Company. Nutrition and Management of Dogs and > Cats. > > St. Louis, MO; 1987.> > > > > > > > > > Pam> > > > > > > > > > > > Federal Law requires that we warn you of the following: > > 1. Natural methods can sometimes backfire. > > 2. If you are pregnant, consult your physician before using any > natural remedy. > > 3. The Constitution guarantees you the right to be your own > physician and to> > prescribe for your own health. > > We are not medical doctors although MDs are welcome to post here > as long as > > they behave themselves. > > Any opinions put forth by the list members are exactly that, and > any person > > following the advice of anyone posting here does so at their own > risk. > > It is up to you to educate yourself. By accepting advice or > products from list members, you are agreeing to > > be fully responsible for your own health, and hold the List Owner > and members free of any liability. > > > > Dr. Ian Shillington> > Doctor of Naturopathy> > Dr.IanShillington@G... > > > > > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted May 6, 2004 Report Share Posted May 6, 2004 Taurine is a beta amino acid required by cats but not dogs. There are two reasons for this. First, the liver of the cat has a limited ability to make taurine, as the rate-limiting enzymes required for converting methionine and cysteine to taurine are only minimally active in the feline liver. Second, cats lose taurine in the secretion of bile acids (whereas other mammals also use glycine in the conjugation and secretion of bile acids, freeing up taurine for other uses). Found in the nervous system (including the retina) and muscles (especially the heart), taurine is one of the most abundant amino acids in the body (and is the most abundant free amino acid in the heart). It is thought to help regulate heartbeat, maintain cell membranes, and affect the release of neurotransmitters in the brain. Taurine also protects the heart from calcium overload and assists in calcium uptake by the heart cells during periods of hypoxia (reduced oxygen levels). THERAPEUTIC USES In people, taurine's best-established use is to treat congestive heart failure. Animal research as well as other, much smaller studies in humans have also found positive effects. One very small study compared taurine with another supplement commonly used for congestive heart failure, Coenzyme Q10. The results suggest that taurine is more effective. As mentioned above, dogs do not have a dietary requirement for taurine, since they can make it out of vitamin B and the amino acids methionine and cysteine. Cats cannot do this; as true carnivores, they require dietary taurine. Deficiencies can occur in dogs and cats fed vegetarian diets, as taurine (or the precursors for taurine) is present in meat but not in vegetables. In cats, dilated cardiomyopathy is a condition where the heart enlarges due to the heart muscle becoming thin and flabby. This weakened heart muscle fails to pump blood properly, leading to congestive heart failure. Several years ago, even commercial pet foods with the 'correct' levels of taurine caused dilated cardiomyopathy in cats. The cause was unknown but may have been due to a defect in the absorption of dietary taurine. It was also possibly caused by the fact that the 'correct' level of taurine was no longer 'correct.' As a result, manufacturers of commercial pet foods responded by increasing levels of taurine in the diet (so that we now have new 'correct' levels in commercial food). Currently, this move seems to have worked, as dilated cardiomyopathy is almost never seen. Interestingly, cats fed homemade meat or fish-based diets did not seem to have this problem with increased incidences of cardiomyopathy. In cats with taurine deficiency that causes dilated cardiomyopathy, clinical improvement is usually seen within 2 to 3 weeks following supplementation. Improvements in the EKG and radiographs will often take 3 to 6 weeks. The goal of taurine supplementation is to achieve plasma taurine levels of at least 60 nmol/mL (normal cats usually have levels >40 nmol/mL). Not all cats with dilated cardiomyopathy have taurine deficiency as the cause of the cardiomyopathy; those cats with normal taurine levels would not he expected to respond to supplementation with taurine. In dogs, cardiomyopathy can also occur, leading to congestive heart failure. Preliminary work shows that supplementation with taurine may be beneficial in American Cocker Spaniels and Golden Retrievers with dilated cardiomyopathy. Supplementation with taurine (500 mg twice daily) and L-carnitine (1,000 mg twice daily) in a small number of dogs with low plasma taurine levels resulted in improvement in a few of the patients. While not all doctors agree, many practitioners feel that since American Cocker Spaniels are predisposed to dilated cardiomyopathy with concurrent taurine and (possibly) carnitine deficiencies, supplementation with these two compounds is suggested for Cocker Spaniels with dilated cardiomyopathy. Dogs with chronic valvular disease, the most common heart disease reported in dogs, usually have normal plasma taurine levels, making routine supplementation unlikely to be of benefit (although supplementation would not be harmful). http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Valley/6661/slowpoison.htmlhttp:// home.comcast.net/~mstraus/dogfeeding.html http://www.petcarenaturally.com/book_health_bible.php Taurine deficiency can be diagnosed based upon testing levels in the blood. Plasma levels are more indicative of recent taurine intake; whole blood levels are more suggestive of chronic taurine intake. However, even with normal blood levels, it is possible that levels of taurine in the heart muscle cells might not be adequate. Even for those pets without low blood taurine levels, supplementation can be tried without side effects. In people, taurine has additionally been proposed as a treatment for numerous other conditions, including heart attack (to prevent dangerous disturbances in heart rhythm), stroke, hypertension, epilepsy, gallbladder disease, alcoholism, cataracts, multiple sclerosis, psoriasis, and diabetes. The evidence for using taurine to treat these disorders is weak and, in some cases, contradictory. Taurine has also been recommended for pets with epilepsy. However, the only evidence to date is experimental. Still, since taurine supplementation will not hurt the pet, it can be added to the therapeutic regimen for epileptic pets following your veterinarian's advice. SOURCES Meat, poultry, eggs, dairy products, and fish are good sources of taurine. DOSAGES For cats, a typical therapeutic dosage of taurine is 250 to 500 mg 2 to 3 times daily. For dogs, a typical therapeutic dosage is 500 mg 2 to 3 times daily. SAFETY ISSUES Taurine is thought to be quite safe. However, maximum safe dosages of taurine supplements for children, pregnant or nursing women, or those with severe liver or kidney disease have not been determined; similar precautions are probably warranted in pets. As with any supplement taken in multigram doses, it is important to purchase a reputable product, because a contaminant present even in small percentages could cause problems. herbal remedies , <zeb@A...> wrote: > Why Taurine is Important > by Dr. Shawn Messonnier > > Common use: Heart disease > > Taurine is a beta amino acid required by cats but not dogs. There are two reasons for this. First, the liver of the cat has a limited ability to make taurine, as the rate-limiting enzymes required for converting methionine and cysteine to taurine are only minimally active in the feline liver. Second, cats lose taurine in the secretion of bile acids (whereas other mammals also use glycine in the conjugation and secretion of bile acids, freeing up taurine for other uses). Found in the nervous system (including the retina) and muscles (especially the heart), taurine is one of the most abundant amino acids in the body (and is the most abundant free amino acid in the heart). It is thought to help regulate heartbeat, maintain cell membranes, and affect the release of neurotransmitters in the brain. Taurine also protects the heart from calcium overload and assists in calcium uptake by the heart cells during periods of hypoxia (reduced oxygen levels). > > > > > > - > Sylvia > herbal remedies > Wednesday, May 05, 2004 2:00 PM > Re: Herbal Remedies - dog food labels > > > There would have to be dried fish for any mixture for cats. > > Taurine is key for cat vision. Also, i am not sure what would help, > but cats (typically male cats) are prone to urinary infections, so > this should be considered as well as FUR BALLS!!!!!!!!! Oils would > address that issue though > > Sylvia > > herbal remedies , " Caroline " > <ladyguinevere@e...> wrote: > > Yes, vegetables are a very important part of a dogs diet...they > just need to have the meat as well. I don't believe in putting a dog > on a vegetarian diet because it is against their natural tendencies. > I do like the idea of the dog food you are thinking about. One thing > that is very good and important for their coat is fish oils. Maybe > consider adding some type of dried fish to the mix. > > > > Caroline > > - > > Sylvia > > herbal remedies > > Wednesday, May 05, 2004 1:39 PM > > Re: Herbal Remedies - dog food labels > > > > > > So it would be dehydrated meat then LOL????? > > (and maybe some vitamins tossed in) > > > > I have read much recently on dogs and cats being allergic to > wheat, > > so having a product that does not contain wheat might be good, > > although perhaps sprouted wheat might work. > > > > The pet food we switched to has less grain in it and more meat > and > > bone meals. Last week there was much talk about raw meat and > bones > > and so something dehydrated with ground meat, bone and > supplements > > would be cool. > > > > I have found that my dog really enjoys veggies, and so we give > them > > to him often (both cooked and raw) Perhaps that could be added to > the > > mix. We had recently been discussing a mix we could make for our > > puppy and dehyrating or baking, so i really like this idea > > > > Sylvia > > > > In herbal remedies , <zeb@A...> wrote: > > > Pam, > > > > > > Thank you very much. I have been working with Doc in > trying to > > come up with a Raw dehydrated pet food that was ALL organic and > only > > what dogs need not what we " think " they need. If anyone has > > suggestions or know of studies regarding dog and cat foods please > let > > me know. > > > > > > Love,, > > > Zeb > > > - > > > pam > > > herbal remedies > > > Tuesday, May 04, 2004 12:10 AM > > > Herbal Remedies - dog food labels > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm? > > cls=2 & cat=1661 & articleid=668 > > > > > > > > > Dog Food Labels > > > Veterinary & Aquatic Services Department, Drs. Foster & > Smith, > > Inc. > > > > > > > > > Q. What do dog food labels mean? > > > > > > A. Reading your pet food label is one of the best ways to > > determine > > > the quality of the food you are feeding. The ingredients and > the > > > guaranteed analysis (amounts of protein, fat, carbohydrates, > > fiber, > > > and other nutrients) are included on the food label. In > addition > > to > > > providing information about the amount and quality of protein > and > > > fat, the label will also alert you of any unwanted > preservatives > > and > > > give general feeding guidelines. > > > A few other things to consider are the price. Calculate out > the > > > price per pound or the price per day. Almost always, dry food > is > > > more economical, and the larger the bag the lower the price > per > > > pound. Many times, a 40-pound bag is less than half as much > per > > > pound than an equivalent 5-pound bag. Remember that with > lower > > > quality foods you feed more and it may not always be cheaper. > On > > the > > > other hand, some of the higher priced foods, especially foods > > sold > > > only through veterinarians, may not be as good as the less > > expensive > > > more easily obtainable food. Check the ingredients, they will > > tell > > > the real story. Most pets do not need specialty foods, just > > quality > > > food. By understanding this article and looking at a few pet > food > > > labels you will be able to find the best food for your pet. > > > > > > Converting dry matter basis > > > > > > This can be the hard part. All pet foods have different > levels of > > > moisture. Canned foods can have up to 80% moisture whereas, > some > > dry > > > foods can have as little as 6%. This is important for 2 > reasons. > > The > > > first is that the food is priced by the pound, and when you > buy > > dog > > > food that is 80% water you get 20% food and the rest is > water. So > > > the amount of food your pet consumes is small and expensive. > The > > > other reason for understanding percent moisture is to help > you > > > compare crude protein and fat between brands and between > canned > > and > > > dry. The listings on the label are for the food as it is, not > as > > it > > > would be on a dry matter basis. So without converting both > brands > > of > > > food to a dry matter basis you will not be able to compare > them > > > accurately. Fortunately, the conversion is not that > complicated. > > > > > > If a dry dog food has 10% moisture we know that it has 90% > dry > > > matter. So we look at the label and check the protein level > that > > > reads 20%. Next, we divide the 20 percent protein by the 90% > dry > > > matter and we get 22%, which is the amount of protein on a > dry > > > matter basis. Does this make sense so far? Good. Now let us > > compare > > > this to canned food that has 80% moisture. We know that with > 80% > > > moisture we have 20% dry matter. The label shows 5% protein. > So > > we > > > take the 5% and divide it by 20% and we get 25% protein on a > dry > > > matter basis. So the canned food has more protein per pound > on a > > dry > > > matter basis after all the water is taken out. We can do the > same > > > for fat, fiber, etc. > > > > > > Guaranteed analysis > > > > > > The guaranteed analysis on the information panel of the dog > food > > > label lists the minimum levels of crude protein and fat and > the > > > maximum levels of fiber and water. The protein and fat are > listed > > as > > > crude sources and not as digestible sources. The > digestibility of > > > protein and fat can vary widely depending on their sources. > The > > list > > > of ingredients should be examined closely to determine how > > > digestible the sources are (see articles on protein and fat > for > > more > > > explanation). The other factor in determining actual protein > and > > fat > > > percentages is the amount of moisture present in the food as > > > discussed earlier. While the guaranteed analysis is a start > in > > > understanding the quality of the food, be very careful about > > relying > > > on it too much. A pet food manufacturer made a mock product > that > > had > > > a guaranteed analysis of 10% protein, 6.5% fat, 2.4% fiber, > and > > 68% > > > moisture, similar to what you see on many canned pet food > labels. > > > The only problem, was that the ingredients were old leather > work > > > boots, used motor oil, crushed coal, and water! > > > > > > Ingredient list > > > > > > All pet foods must list the ingredients present in the food. > The > > > ingredients must be listed in order of weight. This is one of > the > > > best ways to determine the quality of the food. With a little > > > knowledge of the ingredients, you can choose a food that is > > highly > > > digestible and free of unwanted products. Be careful of one > > tactic > > > used by manufacturers to disguise less desirable ingredients. > > > Breaking an ingredient into several different smaller > ingredients > > > and listing them individually is used to lower these > undesirable > > > ingredients farther down the ingredient list. For example, a > > product > > > list could contain chicken, ground corn, corn gluten, ground > > wheat, > > > corn bran, wheat flour, wheat middling, etc. If we were to > group > > all > > > of the corn ingredients as one, they would probably far out- > weigh > > > the amount of chicken, and wheat. As a consumer, you must > read > > all > > > of the ingredients carefully including the ingredients at the > > end, > > > to know the type of preservatives and colorings that are > used. I > > > have listed a few of the more common ingredients and their > > > definitions. > > > > > > Meat: Meat is the clean flesh of slaughtered animals > (chicken, > > > cattle, lamb, turkey, etc.). The flesh can include striated > > skeletal > > > muscle, tongue, diaphragm, heart, esophagus, overlying fat > and > > the > > > skin, sinew, nerves and blood vessels normally found with > that > > flesh. > > > > > > Meat By-products: Meat by-products are clean parts of > slaughtered > > > animals, not including meat. These include lungs, spleen, > > kidneys, > > > brain, liver, blood, bone, and stomach and intestines freed > of > > their > > > contents. It does not include hair, horns, teeth, or hooves. > > > > > > Poultry By-products: Poultry by-products are clean parts of > > > slaughtered poultry such as heads, feet, and internal organs > > (like > > > heart, lungs, liver, kidneys, abdomen, and intestines). It > does > > not > > > contain feathers. > > > > > > Fish Meal: Fish meal is the clean ground tissue of > undecomposed > > > whole fish or fish cuttings, with or without the oil > extracted. > > > > > > Beef Tallow: Beef tallow is fat derived from beef. > > > > > > Ground Corn: Ground corn is the entire corn kernel ground or > > chopped. > > > > > > Corn Gluten Meal: Corn gluten meal is the by-product after > the > > > manufacture of corn syrup or starch, and is the dried residue > > after > > > the removal of the bran, germ, and starch. > > > > > > Brewers Rice: Brewers rice is the small fragments of rice > kernels > > > that have been separated from larger kernels of milled rice. > > > > > > Brown Rice: Brown rice is the unpolished rice left over after > the > > > kernels have been removed. > > > > > > Soybean Meal: Soybean meal is a by-product of the production > of > > > soybean oil. > > > > > > BHA: BHA is butylated hydroxyanisole, a fat preservative. > > > > > > Ethoxyquin: Ethoxyquin is a chemical preservative that is > used to > > > prevent spoilage in dog food. > > > > > > Tocopherols: Tocopherols (e.g., vitamin E) are naturally > > occurring > > > compounds used as natural preservatives. > > > > > > The AAFCO standards > > > > > > 'AAFCO' stands for the Association of American Feed Control > > > Officials. The AAFCO develops guidelines for the production, > > > labeling, and sale of animal foods. These are called the > AAFCO > > > standards. AAFCO has developed two standards which pet foods > > should > > > meet. Pet foods which meet the AAFCO's requirements will > include > > one > > > of two statements on their label. > > > > > > The first and lower standard states 'formulated to meet > AAFCO's > > > nutrient requirement.' This means the food was tested in the > > > laboratory and was found to have the recommended amounts of > > protein, > > > fat, etc. But as mentioned above, the combination of shoe > > leather, > > > used motor oil, and coal would meet this standard. > > > > > > The second standard states something like 'animal- feeding > tests > > > using AAFCO's procedures substantiate that this product > provides > > > complete and balanced nutrition.' For a pet food to be able > to > > carry > > > this label, it had to be tested on a population of animals > for > > six > > > months and shown to provide adequate nutrition. But even with > > this > > > statement, there are problems with its interpretation. If one > > > particular product in a manufacturer's line was tested and > found > > to > > > meet this standard, the company is allowed to include this > same > > > statement on other products in the same 'family' which > provide > > equal > > > or greater concentrations of all the nutrients. So even if > the > > pet > > > food carries this AAFCO food trial statement on its label, > you > > can > > > not be sure that specific product was actually tested in a > food > > > trial. In addition, testing a food for six months is not an > > adequate > > > amount of time to determine if deficiencies or other long > term > > > effects may occur after feeding the product a year or more. > > Despite > > > these problems with the interpretation of this AAFCO food > trial > > > statement, having the statement on a pet food label at least > > shows > > > the company has made some attempt to develop a good food. > > > > > > Feeding instructions > > > > > > Feeding instructions or guidelines are included on most every > bag > > > and most cans of pet foods. These guidelines give the > recommended > > > amount to be fed based on growth level and weight. I would > remind > > > owners that these are very rough guidelines. Every animal has > a > > > different level of activity, metabolism, and ambient > > environmental > > > temperature. In addition, breed, age, and other environmental > > > stresses all impact daily requirements. I encourage you to > use > > these > > > guidelines as rough starting points. If your animal is thin > or > > > hungry, feed it more often and in greater quantity. If your > pet > > is > > > obese, feed it less. I cannot begin to count the number of > > clients > > > that have complained of a hungry, thin, or obese dog and > after > > being > > > questioned about it found that they were feeding the > recommended > > > amount on the bag and were afraid to deviate from it. This is > an > > > area where common sense is much more important than science. > > > > > > Summary > > > > > > One of the most common questions that I get is what is the > best > > pet > > > food on the market? I can honestly say that there is not one. > The > > > very fact that there are so many types and brands on the > market > > > shows that there are hundreds of options and opinions. Some > dogs > > > need higher fat and protein than others. Feed what is > appropriate > > > for your pet: puppies need puppy food and cats need cat food. > Do > > not > > > switch brands every month, but do not be afraid to switch > brands > > and > > > find one that your pet does well on. I have seen medical > problems > > > from dogs fed the cheaper generic foods, and some farm store > and > > > department store brands. If you are feeding a pet food that > can > > only > > > be purchased from a veterinarian, read the label closely and > then > > > compare it to some of the premium brands on the market. Then > > check > > > the price. You may be in for a big surprise! You do not > always > > get > > > what you pay for. > > > > > > The other question I get is, 'what do I feed my pets?' I can > tell > > > you that I feed my dog a premium national brand that is > chicken > > and > > > rice and sells for around 73 cents a pound. I feed my cats a > > premium > > > brand that is formulated to help reduce cystitis and urinary > > > problems, which sells for twice of what my dog food costs, > but my > > > cats eat very little and do great on it. I always feed dry > food > > and > > > free choice. Feeding table scraps and treats have to be > > considered > > > in the overall diet and are discussed more thoroughly in > their > > > separate articles. > > > > > > > > > References and Further Reading > > > > > > > > > Palika, L. The Consumer's Guide To Dog Food. Howell Book > House of > > > Simon & Schuster/Macmillan Company. New York, NY; 1996. > > > > > > Ralston Purina Company. Nutrition and Management of Dogs and > > Cats. > > > St. Louis, MO; 1987. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Pam > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Federal Law requires that we warn you of the following: > > > 1. Natural methods can sometimes backfire. > > > 2. If you are pregnant, consult your physician before using > any > > natural remedy. > > > 3. The Constitution guarantees you the right to be your own > > physician and to > > > prescribe for your own health. > > > We are not medical doctors although MDs are welcome to post > here > > as long as > > > they behave themselves. > > > Any opinions put forth by the list members are exactly that, > and > > any person > > > following the advice of anyone posting here does so at their > own > > risk. > > > It is up to you to educate yourself. By accepting advice or > > products from list members, you are agreeing to > > > be fully responsible for your own health, and hold the List > Owner > > and members free of any liability. > > > > > > Dr. Ian Shillington > > > Doctor of Naturopathy > > > Dr.IanShillington@G... > > > > > > > > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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