Hyperbole Meets High-Tech: Slick Sales Talk and Modern Energy Bars

[Guest guest]

By Sally Fallon and Mary G. Enig. PhD

 

If you are interested in your health and have read books on the

subject, you probably know that candy bars are not good for you.

Loaded with sugar and short on protein, they give the body a quick

lift without providing any real nourishment. The lift soon gives way

to a letdown and you feel hungrier than before. Many contain

hydrogenated oils and a slew of artificial ingredients.

 

But candy bars are quick and convenient. They have a long shelf life

and can be sold in vending machines. They taste good—actually

they can

be addictive—and can stave off hunger and cravings. So what does

the

health-conscious consumer do in this candy bar culture?

 

Energy bars to the rescue. They look and taste like candy bars, have

the shelf life of candy bars, contain protein and fiber, are loaded

with vitamins and minerals. They are convenient and they taste good.

And, thanks to an incredible amount of advertising hype, they can be

consumed without the guilt of the candy bar.

 

The original energy bars, such as the Power Bar and the Source Bar,

were based on so-called natural sweeteners—high fructose corn

syrup

and juice concentrates—along with dried fruits and nuts, a

combination

that resulted in higher percentages of carbohydrates than the typical

chocolate candy bar (which is rich in cocoa butter, a healthy natural

fat.)

 

CHEAP PROTEIN

 

The real boost for the bar business came with the advent of cheap soy

and whey proteins that could be added to make a " high-protein " bar.

Barry Sears' BioZone " Programmed Nutrition " bars were among the first

of these, with several imitators following, including Balance Bars

( " The Complete Nutritional Food Bar " ) and ZonePerfect Bars ( " All

Natural Nutrition Bars " ).

 

But there is nothing natural about the protein used in today's energy

bars. Soy protein comes with an initial burden of phytic acid, enzyme

inhibitors and isoflavones. More toxins are formed during

high-temperature chemical processing, including nitrates, lysinalanine

and MSG. Soy protein must be processed at very high temperatures to

reduce levels of phytic acid and enzyme inhibitors, a process that

over-denatures many of the proteins in soy, especially lysine, making

them unavailable to the body.

 

Whey protein is inherently fragile and must be processed at low

temperatures or its qualities as a protein are destroyed. That is why

casein rather than whey protein is used in animal chow. When cheese,

butter and cream were made on the farm, the whey and skim milk were

given to the pigs and chickens. But today these products are made in

factories far from the farms where they originated, so the industry

has a " whey problem, " solved by drying the skim milk and whey at high

temperatures and putting the powders into energy drinks, body building

powders and high-protein bars.

 

Other major ingredients include high fructose corn syrup (or

concentrated fruit juices, which are high in fructose), an ingredient

that has been shown to be worse for test animals than sugar. Other

ingredients include " natural " fiber from oats, apples, soy and citrus.

Sometimes maltodextrin is given as the fiber source. " Natural flavors "

and piles of synthetic vitamins are thrown in so the bars can be

called " complete. "

 

On the plus side, the fat source in most energy bars is often palm,

palm kernel or coconut oil. Barry Sears' original BioZone bars

contained partially hydrogenated soybean oil—until he met up with

Mary

Enig at an Oil Chem conference where she reminded him about the

problems with trans fats and wondered how he could promote bars

containing trans fats as nutritious.

 

MAJOR INGREDIENTS IN MODERN ENERGY BARS

 

Boulder Bar ( " Provides sustained energy from naturally delicious real

food " ): Apple juice, figs, whole brown rice syrup, maltodextrin

(complex carb), soy protein isolate, oat bran, oat flour, rice flour.

 

Source Bar ( " Total Sports Nutrition " ): Dried plums and dates, grape

juice concentrate, wheat flour, whey protein concentrate, defatted

peanut flour, honey, fruit juice concentrate, oats, raisins, pecans,

soy flour, canola oil.

 

Power Bar ( " Fuel for Optimum Performance " ): High fructose corn syrup,

grape and pear juice concentrate, oat bran, maltodextrin, milk

protein, brown rice, sesame butter, barley malt, peanut butter.

 

Clif Bar ( " Nutrition for Sustained Energy " ): Brown rice syrup, rolled

oats, soy nuggets (soy protein isolate, rice flour, malt extract),

evaporated cane juice, roasted soy butter, chocolate chips, fig paste,

cocoa, almonds, ClifCrunchTM (apple fiber, oat fiber, milled flaxseed,

soy fiber, chicory extract, lemon fiber, psyllium).

 

BioZone Bars ( " Programmed Nutrition " ): Fructose syrup, soy protein

isolate, honey, calcium caseinate, toasted soybeans, corn syrup,

sugar, palm and palm kernel oils, peanut butter, cocoa powder,

lactose, whey protein concentrate.

 

Balance Bars ( " The Complete Nutritional Food Bar " ): Protein blend (soy

protein isolate, calcium caseinate, toasted soy beans, whey protein

concentrate, whey), high fructose corn syrup, honey, fructose,

almonds, high maltose corn syrup, canola oil, palm and palm kernel

oils, sunflower oil.

 

Think! Interactive Bar ( " Concentration, Calmness, Stamina " ): Advanced

protein blend (peanut protein, sodium caseinate, isolated soy protein,

nonfat dry milk, lactoalbumin), peanut butter, fructose syrup, brown

sugar, high concentrate soya flour, MCTs, molasses, yeast, milk

chocolate.

 

Dr. Soy ( " The smart choice for delicious nutrition as a snack or meal

replacement bar " ): Soy Blend (soy protein isolate and soy nuggets),

malitol syrup, brown rice syrup, sugar, fractionated palm kernel oil,

nonfat dry milk, yogurt powder, honey.

 

Atkins Advantage ( " The Original Low-Carb Lifestyle " ): Protein blend

(soy protein isolate, hydrolyzed collagen, whey protein isolate,

calcium/sodium caseinate), glycerine, polydextrose (fiber), cocoa

butter, cocoa powder, water, natural coconut oil, soy nuggets (soy

protein, rice flour, malt, salt), cellulose, olive oil, sucralose.

 

With the exception of the fats, most of the ingredients used in energy

bars are waste products—soy protein isolate and whey protein are

the

waste products of the soy oil and cheese industries respectively.

Apple and lemon fiber, used to create a crunchy effect, are also waste

products, made from the pulp left over from squeezing the fruits for

their juice. Soy lecithin, another common ingredient, is also a waste

product of the soy oil industry. And most of the sweeteners are made

by highly industrialized processes. In short, most of the ingredients

in energy bars are anything but natural.

 

HIGHLY HYPED

 

Typical of the hype used to promote candy bars made from waste

products is that used to huckster Balance Bars. Slick advertising copy

shows attractive, intelligent-looking people (children with dogs,

doctors in white coats, men with brief cases) above the following

text: " The Balance nutritional food bar is a great tasting,

long-lasting energy source which has helped change the way

health-conscious consumers look at nutrition. Made with all natural

ingredients, Balance bars combine nutrients in a 40-30-30 ratio of

carbohydrates, protein and dietary fat. This clinically proven

combination encourages the body to access fat as fuel, helping to

maintain stable blood sugar levels. Balance bars taste great as they

work, delivering the essential nutrients today's healthy consumers ask

for. "

 

According to Dick Lamb, president of Balance Bars, his product is the

" only nutrition bar clinically proven to improve athletic

performance. " The " clinical trials " to which he refers compared two

four-week dietary programs of real food, one at 40 percent carbs, 30

percent protein and 30 percent fat and one at 60 percent carbs, 20

percent protein and a mere 20 percent fat. The group on the " balance

formula " ran faster during the last 5 km in a race and raised their

HDL by 14 points. Because Balance bars have the same macronutrient

ratios as the " winning " diet, Lamb makes the claim that they are

" clinically proven. " Says Lamb: " Balancing your dietary protein,

carbohydrate and fat can have a profound effect on your athletic

performance and general energy levels. By better accessing body fat,

you can reduce excess body fat easily and without hunger, improve your

energy levels for training, improve concentration; and dramatically

improve your recovery rates. " Elsewhere in the literature, Balance

bars are called the " ideal snack for diabetic children. "

 

While many of the modern energy bars emphasize athletic performance,

others are said to promote optimal mental performance. The Think!

Nutrition Bar claims that it will bestow " concentration, calmness,

stamina. " " For best results, " says the label, " Eat a Think! Nutrition

bar and 16 ounces fresh water 30 minutes before using your brain. "

 

A new angle on energy bar hype is used for bars formulated for women.

The wrapper for the CLIF Luna Chocolate Pecan Pie Whole Nutrition Bar

for Women contains the following paean: " We believe that what we put

into our bodies matters; food feeds our souls, lifts our spirits,

nourishes and sustains us. That's why we created LUNA, the blissfully

good, whole nutrition bar for women. In just 180 calories, LUNA meets

many of the specific nutritional requirements women need everyday to

maintain active life-styles. Join us in healthy, joyous living! "

REAL FOOD ENERGY BARS

 

The energy bar phenomenon capitalizes on a real human need—that

of a

convenient, nutrient-dense, concentrated travel food that keeps well,

satisfies and tastes good. Such commodities indeed exist. One is

called cheese, a fermented, high-calorie storage food that keeps well

on journeys, is rich in nutrients and high enough in fat to be truly

satisfying. Another is hard cured sausage, a fermented food that keeps

well, tastes delicious and provides high quality fat and protein.

 

Pemmican, used by native Americans, was the perfect energy bar. Made

from dried lean meat and rendered fat packed into rawhide bags, it was

highly concentrated and kept for years. One and one-half pounds could

sustain a grown man doing heavy work all day. This was no 40-30-30

bar—eighty percent of calories in pemmican comes from fat and

almost

none from carbohydrates, except on the occasion when dried berries

were added.

 

Pozol, a product of southern Mexico, is another candidate. Cooked corn

meal is wrapped in banana leaves and allowed to ferment for two weeks.

The outside becomes encased in a nutritious green mold. Pozol is said

to be an almost perfect food, long-lasting and sustaining. This is a

high-carbohydrate food that conforms to USDA guidelines—but not to

modern tastes.

 

Soaked and dehydrated " crispy " nuts make a good snack that Westerners

can enjoy. They can be kept in your car or office. Most do not need

refrigeration. A combination of nuts with cheese and hard sausage

makes a complete meal.

 

A satisfying bar made of ground nuts, coconut or palm oil, butter oil

and low-temperature dried animal protein would be relatively complete

and satisfy the requirements for a nutritious travel food. But real

food ingredients are not cheap; on the contrary, they are expensive

and militate against the kind of profit margins the food industry

requires. Like cheese and cured sausage, any nutritious energy bar

must be produced locally by artisans, on a small scale—and

without the

hype.

 

This article appeared in Wise Traditions in Food, Farming and the

Healing Arts, the quarterly magazine of the Weston A. Price

Foundation, Winter 2002