Guest guest Posted December 21, 2001 Report Share Posted December 21, 2001 Howdy folks, I've lost all of my bookmarks (ah, still living in my computer hell - for the past few months now!) SO, I was wondering if anyone here happens to have the URL for that web site that discusses how to make your own lye from scratch from ash ... I've got the woodburning stove rockin and rollin', and I have no life *LOL*, so I might as well try another project, right? Thanks in advance! *Smile* Chris (list mom) http://www.alittleolfactory.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted December 21, 2001 Report Share Posted December 21, 2001 Check it out! http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/paul_norman_3/soapmake.htm *Smile* Chris (list mom) http://www.alittleolfactory.com ~~~~~~~~~~~ MAKING " LYE WATER " Soap making uses a `caustic solution' known as " Lye Water " . When available, Caustic Soda is used. Here we will make Lye Water out of certain wood ashes and " soft water " . 1) White Ashes Dried palm branches, dried out banana peels, cocoa pods, kapok tree wood, oak wood, (or for really white soap, apple tree wood) make the best lye ashes. Ordinary wood used in cooking fires will do. Whatever wood is used, it should be burned in a very hot fire to make very white ashes. When cold, these are stored in a covered plastic bucket or wooden barrel, or stainless steel container. If these are not available, a clay pot-jar which has been fired in a pottery making kiln (not just dried in the sun). A wooden drum or barrel which has a tap at the right is best. 2) Soft Water Water from a spring or from showers of rain is called " soft water " , because it does not have metallic or acidic chemicals in it. This makes it useful for soap making, as there are no other chemicals in it which would get in the way of making soap. `Ordinary' bore, well, or river water can be used for making soap, but this will sometimes need to have a " washing soda " or " baking soda " in added to it. Otherwise some of the chemicals in the water will get in the way of making the soap. If you are using `ordinary' water and you want to test it to see if some soda needs to be added, simply try to make soap bubble up (foam) in it. If the soap easily foams up, the water is probably ok as it is. If not, try adding a little bit of soda at a time stirring it to make it disappear, until the water will foam the soap up. Then add the same amount of soda to the same amounts of the water that you wish to use to make the soap. For example, if you were testing a 1/4 (a quarter) of a bucket of water, and you ended up needing 1/8 (an eighth) of a cup of soda, then you would need 4/8 ( or 1/2-half) a cup of soda for a full bucket of 'ordinary' water. However you have got it, store the " soft water " in covered wooden, plastic, or stainless steel buckets or containers. (Again, a clay-jar as described above can be used if needed.) " SAFE " CONTAINERS Any of the types of containers, buckets, barrels or jars described in the White Ashes or Soft Water sections are called " safe containers " . MAKING " LYE WATER " If you are going to use a large barrel or drum to make the lye water in, and it has a tap or hole at the right, place some kind of filter on the inside of the barrel around the opening (as shown in the diagrams). Fill the barrel with white ashes to about four inches (10 cm or O.1 metre) below the top. | Boil half (1/2) a bucket full of soft water (about 10 pints or six litre), and pour over the ashes. Slowly add more cold soft water until liquid drips out of the barrel. Close the tap or block the hole. Add more ashes to top the barrel up again, and more soft water. Do not add so much water that the ashes swim. Leave to stand for four or more hours (or over night if you have the time). Later pour the brownish lye water into a plastic or other " safe " container(s). Then pour back through the ashes again. Let the lye water drip into " safe " containers. When the brown lye water stops coming out of the barrel, or ash container, then pour four to five pints (2½ to three litre) of soft water through the ashes, collecting the lye which comes out in a separate " safe " container (as this lye may be weaker than the first lot). Repeat this using two to three pints (one to two litre) of soft water, until no more brown liquid comes out of the ashes. Either put the lye into " safe " bottles, or cover the " safe " containers which it is in. Dig the ashes into the vegetable garden. -- KEEP LYE WATER AWAY FROM CHILDREN. LYE WATER IS DANGEROUS ! -- LYE WATER STRENGTH. If an egg or potato will float just below half way, or a chicken feather starts to dissolve in it, then the lye water is at the right strength. If the egg will not float, then the lye water could be boiled down if you wanted it to be stronger. If the egg seems to pop up too far, add a little bit of soft water (a cup at a time) stirring the lye water, until the egg floats so that its head pops up. Chris Ziegler wrote: > Howdy folks, > > I've lost all of my bookmarks (ah, still living in my computer hell - > for the past few months now!) SO, I was wondering if anyone here happens > to have the URL for that web site that discusses how to make your own > lye from scratch from ash ... I've got the woodburning stove rockin and > rollin', and I have no life *LOL*, so I might as well try another > project, right? > Thanks in advance! > > *Smile* > Chris (list mom) > > http://www.alittleolfactory.com > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted December 21, 2001 Report Share Posted December 21, 2001 Hi, Just did - you going to do it? If you do, be careful, k? Hugs, Marilyn Chris Ziegler wrote: > Check it out! > > http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/paul_norman_3/soapmake.htm > > *Smile* > > Chris (list mom) > http://www.alittleolfactory.com > ~~~~~~~~~~~ > > MAKING " LYE WATER " > Soap making uses a `caustic solution' known as " Lye Water " . > > When available, Caustic Soda is used. Here we will make Lye Water out of > certain wood ashes and " soft water " . > > 1) White Ashes > Dried palm branches, dried out banana peels, cocoa pods, kapok tree > wood, oak wood, (or for really white soap, apple tree wood) make the > best lye ashes. Ordinary wood used in cooking fires will do. > > Whatever wood is used, it should be burned in a very hot fire to make > very white ashes. > > When cold, these are stored in a covered plastic bucket or wooden > barrel, or stainless steel container. If these are not available, a clay > pot-jar which has been fired in a pottery making kiln (not just dried in > the sun). > > A wooden drum or barrel which has a tap at the right is best. > > 2) Soft Water > Water from a spring or from showers of rain is called " soft water " , > because it does not have metallic or acidic chemicals in it. > > This makes it useful for soap making, as there are no other chemicals in > it which would get in the way of making soap. > > `Ordinary' bore, well, or river water can be used for making soap, but > this will sometimes need to have a " washing soda " or " baking soda " in > added to it. Otherwise some of the chemicals in the water will get in > the way of making the soap. > > If you are using `ordinary' water and you want to test it to see if some > soda needs to be added, simply try to make soap bubble up (foam) in it. > > If the soap easily foams up, the water is probably ok as it is. > > If not, try adding a little bit of soda at a time stirring it to make it > disappear, until the water will foam the soap up. > > Then add the same amount of soda to the same amounts of the water that > you wish to use to make the soap. For example, if you were testing a 1/4 > (a quarter) of a bucket of water, and you ended up needing 1/8 (an > eighth) of a cup of soda, then you would need 4/8 ( or 1/2-half) a cup > of soda for a full bucket of 'ordinary' water. > > However you have got it, store the " soft water " in covered wooden, > plastic, or stainless steel buckets or containers. (Again, a clay-jar as > described above can be used if needed.) > > " SAFE " CONTAINERS > Any of the types of containers, buckets, barrels or jars described in > the White Ashes or Soft Water sections are called " safe containers " . > > MAKING " LYE WATER " > > If you are going to use a large barrel or drum to make the lye water in, > and it has a tap or hole at the right, place some kind of filter on the > inside of the barrel around the opening (as shown in the diagrams). > > Fill the barrel with white ashes to about four inches (10 cm or O.1 > metre) below the top. > | > Boil half (1/2) a bucket full of soft water (about 10 pints or six > litre), and pour over the ashes. > > Slowly add more cold soft water until liquid drips out of the barrel. > Close the tap or block the hole. > > Add more ashes to top the barrel up again, and more soft water. Do not > add so much water that the ashes swim. > > Leave to stand for four or more hours (or over night if you have the > time). Later pour the brownish lye water into a plastic or other " safe " > container(s). Then pour back through the ashes again. Let the lye water > drip into " safe " containers. > When the brown lye water stops coming out of the barrel, or ash > container, then pour four to five pints (2½ to three litre) of soft > water through the ashes, collecting the lye which comes out in a > separate " safe " container (as this lye may be weaker than the first lot). > > Repeat this using two to three pints (one to two litre) of soft water, > until no more brown liquid comes out of the ashes. > > Either put the lye into " safe " bottles, or cover the " safe " containers > which it is in. Dig the ashes into the vegetable garden. > -- > KEEP LYE WATER AWAY FROM CHILDREN. > LYE WATER IS DANGEROUS ! > -- > > LYE WATER STRENGTH. > If an egg or potato will float just below half way, or a chicken feather > starts to dissolve in it, then the lye water is at the right strength. > > If the egg will not float, then the lye water could be boiled down if > you wanted it to be stronger. > > If the egg seems to pop up too far, add a little bit of soft water (a > cup at a time) stirring the lye water, until the egg floats so that its > head pops up. > > Chris Ziegler wrote: > > > Howdy folks, > > > > I've lost all of my bookmarks (ah, still living in my computer hell - > > for the past few months now!) SO, I was wondering if anyone here happens > > to have the URL for that web site that discusses how to make your own > > lye from scratch from ash ... I've got the woodburning stove rockin and > > rollin', and I have no life *LOL*, so I might as well try another > > project, right? > > Thanks in advance! > > > > *Smile* > > Chris (list mom) > > > > http://www.alittleolfactory.com > > > > > My Pictures of Aromatic Plants and Exotic Places In Turkey > http://members.home.net/chrisziggy1/triptoturkey.html > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted December 22, 2001 Report Share Posted December 22, 2001 Seems like WAY too much trouble for me. I take it you're going to do this? If so, let me/us know if there is a difference in the soap. New years resolution: (aint it that time again?) I'm going to try and make " Real " soap this next year! Cheers! Kathleen Petrides SmeLLeNNiuM: 101 Aromatic Stories http://www.101aromas.com AND Snuggle'ums: Organic Wheat Berry Microwavable Pillows for the whole Family! http://www.snuggleumpkins.com - " Chris Ziegler " <chrisziggy1 Friday, December 21, 2001 1:27 PM Re: Making Lye From Scratch? > Check it out! > > http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/paul_norman_3/soapmake.htm > > *Smile* > > Chris (list mom) > http://www.alittleolfactory.com > ~~~~~~~~~~~ > > MAKING " LYE WATER " > Soap making uses a `caustic solution' known as " Lye Water " . > > When available, Caustic Soda is used. Here we will make Lye Water out of > certain wood ashes and " soft water " . > > 1) White Ashes > Dried palm branches, dried out banana peels, cocoa pods, kapok tree > wood, oak wood, (or for really white soap, apple tree wood) make the > best lye ashes. Ordinary wood used in cooking fires will do. > > Whatever wood is used, it should be burned in a very hot fire to make > very white ashes. > > When cold, these are stored in a covered plastic bucket or wooden > barrel, or stainless steel container. If these are not available, a clay > pot-jar which has been fired in a pottery making kiln (not just dried in > the sun). > > A wooden drum or barrel which has a tap at the right is best. > > 2) Soft Water > Water from a spring or from showers of rain is called " soft water " , > because it does not have metallic or acidic chemicals in it. > > This makes it useful for soap making, as there are no other chemicals in > it which would get in the way of making soap. > > `Ordinary' bore, well, or river water can be used for making soap, but > this will sometimes need to have a " washing soda " or " baking soda " in > added to it. Otherwise some of the chemicals in the water will get in > the way of making the soap. > > If you are using `ordinary' water and you want to test it to see if some > soda needs to be added, simply try to make soap bubble up (foam) in it. > > If the soap easily foams up, the water is probably ok as it is. > > If not, try adding a little bit of soda at a time stirring it to make it > disappear, until the water will foam the soap up. > > Then add the same amount of soda to the same amounts of the water that > you wish to use to make the soap. For example, if you were testing a 1/4 > (a quarter) of a bucket of water, and you ended up needing 1/8 (an > eighth) of a cup of soda, then you would need 4/8 ( or 1/2-half) a cup > of soda for a full bucket of 'ordinary' water. > > However you have got it, store the " soft water " in covered wooden, > plastic, or stainless steel buckets or containers. (Again, a clay-jar as > described above can be used if needed.) > > " SAFE " CONTAINERS > Any of the types of containers, buckets, barrels or jars described in > the White Ashes or Soft Water sections are called " safe containers " . > > MAKING " LYE WATER " > > If you are going to use a large barrel or drum to make the lye water in, > and it has a tap or hole at the right, place some kind of filter on the > inside of the barrel around the opening (as shown in the diagrams). > > Fill the barrel with white ashes to about four inches (10 cm or O.1 > metre) below the top. > | > Boil half (1/2) a bucket full of soft water (about 10 pints or six > litre), and pour over the ashes. > > Slowly add more cold soft water until liquid drips out of the barrel. > Close the tap or block the hole. > > Add more ashes to top the barrel up again, and more soft water. Do not > add so much water that the ashes swim. > > Leave to stand for four or more hours (or over night if you have the > time). Later pour the brownish lye water into a plastic or other " safe " > container(s). Then pour back through the ashes again. Let the lye water > drip into " safe " containers. > When the brown lye water stops coming out of the barrel, or ash > container, then pour four to five pints (2½ to three litre) of soft > water through the ashes, collecting the lye which comes out in a > separate " safe " container (as this lye may be weaker than the first lot). > > Repeat this using two to three pints (one to two litre) of soft water, > until no more brown liquid comes out of the ashes. > > Either put the lye into " safe " bottles, or cover the " safe " containers > which it is in. Dig the ashes into the vegetable garden. > -------- ------ > KEEP LYE WATER AWAY FROM CHILDREN. > LYE WATER IS DANGEROUS ! > -------- ------ > > LYE WATER STRENGTH. > If an egg or potato will float just below half way, or a chicken feather > starts to dissolve in it, then the lye water is at the right strength. > > If the egg will not float, then the lye water could be boiled down if > you wanted it to be stronger. > > If the egg seems to pop up too far, add a little bit of soft water (a > cup at a time) stirring the lye water, until the egg floats so that its > head pops up. > > > > Chris Ziegler wrote: > > > Howdy folks, > > > > I've lost all of my bookmarks (ah, still living in my computer hell - > > for the past few months now!) SO, I was wondering if anyone here happens > > to have the URL for that web site that discusses how to make your own > > lye from scratch from ash ... I've got the woodburning stove rockin and > > rollin', and I have no life *LOL*, so I might as well try another > > project, right? > > Thanks in advance! > > > > *Smile* > > Chris (list mom) > > > > http://www.alittleolfactory.com > > > > > > > My Pictures of Aromatic Plants and Exotic Places In Turkey > http://members.home.net/chrisziggy1/triptoturkey.html > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted December 22, 2001 Report Share Posted December 22, 2001 Hiya, Real soap??? ROFL, as opposed to " fake " soap? what the heck ya been makin, gal? <grinz> Hugs, Marilyn Kathleen Petrides wrote: > Seems like WAY too much trouble for me. I take it you're going to do this? > If so, let me/us know if there is a difference in the soap. > > New years resolution: (aint it that time again?) I'm going to try and make > " Real " soap this next year! > > Cheers! > Kathleen Petrides > SmeLLeNNiuM: 101 Aromatic Stories > http://www.101aromas.com > AND > Snuggle'ums: Organic Wheat Berry Microwavable Pillows for the whole Family! > http://www.snuggleumpkins.com > > - > " Chris Ziegler " <chrisziggy1 > > Friday, December 21, 2001 1:27 PM > Re: Making Lye From Scratch? > > > Check it out! > > > > http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/paul_norman_3/soapmake.htm > > > > *Smile* > > > > Chris (list mom) > > http://www.alittleolfactory.com > > ~~~~~~~~~~~ > > > > MAKING " LYE WATER " > > Soap making uses a `caustic solution' known as " Lye Water " . > > > > When available, Caustic Soda is used. Here we will make Lye Water out of > > certain wood ashes and " soft water " . > > > > 1) White Ashes > > Dried palm branches, dried out banana peels, cocoa pods, kapok tree > > wood, oak wood, (or for really white soap, apple tree wood) make the > > best lye ashes. Ordinary wood used in cooking fires will do. > > > > Whatever wood is used, it should be burned in a very hot fire to make > > very white ashes. > > > > When cold, these are stored in a covered plastic bucket or wooden > > barrel, or stainless steel container. If these are not available, a clay > > pot-jar which has been fired in a pottery making kiln (not just dried in > > the sun). > > > > A wooden drum or barrel which has a tap at the right is best. > > > > 2) Soft Water > > Water from a spring or from showers of rain is called " soft water " , > > because it does not have metallic or acidic chemicals in it. > > > > This makes it useful for soap making, as there are no other chemicals in > > it which would get in the way of making soap. > > > > `Ordinary' bore, well, or river water can be used for making soap, but > > this will sometimes need to have a " washing soda " or " baking soda " in > > added to it. Otherwise some of the chemicals in the water will get in > > the way of making the soap. > > > > If you are using `ordinary' water and you want to test it to see if some > > soda needs to be added, simply try to make soap bubble up (foam) in it. > > > > If the soap easily foams up, the water is probably ok as it is. > > > > If not, try adding a little bit of soda at a time stirring it to make it > > disappear, until the water will foam the soap up. > > > > Then add the same amount of soda to the same amounts of the water that > > you wish to use to make the soap. For example, if you were testing a 1/4 > > (a quarter) of a bucket of water, and you ended up needing 1/8 (an > > eighth) of a cup of soda, then you would need 4/8 ( or 1/2-half) a cup > > of soda for a full bucket of 'ordinary' water. > > > > However you have got it, store the " soft water " in covered wooden, > > plastic, or stainless steel buckets or containers. (Again, a clay-jar as > > described above can be used if needed.) > > > > " SAFE " CONTAINERS > > Any of the types of containers, buckets, barrels or jars described in > > the White Ashes or Soft Water sections are called " safe containers " . > > > > MAKING " LYE WATER " > > > > If you are going to use a large barrel or drum to make the lye water in, > > and it has a tap or hole at the right, place some kind of filter on the > > inside of the barrel around the opening (as shown in the diagrams). > > > > Fill the barrel with white ashes to about four inches (10 cm or O.1 > > metre) below the top. > > | > > Boil half (1/2) a bucket full of soft water (about 10 pints or six > > litre), and pour over the ashes. > > > > Slowly add more cold soft water until liquid drips out of the barrel. > > Close the tap or block the hole. > > > > Add more ashes to top the barrel up again, and more soft water. Do not > > add so much water that the ashes swim. > > > > Leave to stand for four or more hours (or over night if you have the > > time). Later pour the brownish lye water into a plastic or other " safe " > > container(s). Then pour back through the ashes again. Let the lye water > > drip into " safe " containers. > > When the brown lye water stops coming out of the barrel, or ash > > container, then pour four to five pints (2½ to three litre) of soft > > water through the ashes, collecting the lye which comes out in a > > separate " safe " container (as this lye may be weaker than the first lot). > > > > Repeat this using two to three pints (one to two litre) of soft water, > > until no more brown liquid comes out of the ashes. > > > > Either put the lye into " safe " bottles, or cover the " safe " containers > > which it is in. Dig the ashes into the vegetable garden. > > -------- > ------ > > KEEP LYE WATER AWAY FROM CHILDREN. > > LYE WATER IS DANGEROUS ! > > -------- > ------ > > > > LYE WATER STRENGTH. > > If an egg or potato will float just below half way, or a chicken feather > > starts to dissolve in it, then the lye water is at the right strength. > > > > If the egg will not float, then the lye water could be boiled down if > > you wanted it to be stronger. > > > > If the egg seems to pop up too far, add a little bit of soft water (a > > cup at a time) stirring the lye water, until the egg floats so that its > > head pops up. > > > > > > > > Chris Ziegler wrote: > > > > > Howdy folks, > > > > > > I've lost all of my bookmarks (ah, still living in my computer hell - > > > for the past few months now!) SO, I was wondering if anyone here happens > > > to have the URL for that web site that discusses how to make your own > > > lye from scratch from ash ... I've got the woodburning stove rockin and > > > rollin', and I have no life *LOL*, so I might as well try another > > > project, right? > > > Thanks in advance! > > > > > > *Smile* > > > Chris (list mom) > > > > > > http://www.alittleolfactory.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > My Pictures of Aromatic Plants and Exotic Places In Turkey > > http://members.home.net/chrisziggy1/triptoturkey.html > > > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted December 22, 2001 Report Share Posted December 22, 2001 Hey Marilyn I make M & P. Been too darned chicken to make soap with Lye. However thanks to you guys and some lovely ladies on another list, I'm girding my loins to do something really brave and make some " Real " soap. I say " Real " soap, because (and no, none of you lovely ladies) are quite scornful of M & P. I do like it though. You can do a lot with it...blah blah blah...shan't bore y'all with repeating what you already know about it (including the nasty humectants LOL) Cheers! Kathleen Petrides SmeLLeNNiuM: 101 Aromatic Stories http://www.101aromas.com AND Snuggle'ums: Organic Wheat Berry Microwavable Pillows for the whole family! http://www.snuggleumpkins.com - " Marilyn Nicholson " <menicholson7 Friday, December 21, 2001 4:10 PM Re: Making Lye From Scratch? > Hiya, > > Real soap??? ROFL, as opposed to " fake " soap? what the heck ya been makin, gal? > <grinz> > > Hugs, > > Marilyn > > Kathleen Petrides wrote: > > > Seems like WAY too much trouble for me. I take it you're going to do this? > > If so, let me/us know if there is a difference in the soap. > > > > New years resolution: (aint it that time again?) I'm going to try and make > > " Real " soap this next year! > > > > Cheers! > > Kathleen Petrides > > SmeLLeNNiuM: 101 Aromatic Stories > > http://www.101aromas.com > > AND > > Snuggle'ums: Organic Wheat Berry Microwavable Pillows for the whole Family! > > http://www.snuggleumpkins.com > > > > - > > " Chris Ziegler " <chrisziggy1 > > > > Friday, December 21, 2001 1:27 PM > > Re: Making Lye From Scratch? > > > > > Check it out! > > > > > > http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/paul_norman_3/soapmake.htm > > > > > > *Smile* > > > > > > Chris (list mom) > > > http://www.alittleolfactory.com > > > ~~~~~~~~~~~ > > > > > > MAKING " LYE WATER " > > > Soap making uses a `caustic solution' known as " Lye Water " . > > > > > > When available, Caustic Soda is used. Here we will make Lye Water out of > > > certain wood ashes and " soft water " . > > > > > > 1) White Ashes > > > Dried palm branches, dried out banana peels, cocoa pods, kapok tree > > > wood, oak wood, (or for really white soap, apple tree wood) make the > > > best lye ashes. Ordinary wood used in cooking fires will do. > > > > > > Whatever wood is used, it should be burned in a very hot fire to make > > > very white ashes. > > > > > > When cold, these are stored in a covered plastic bucket or wooden > > > barrel, or stainless steel container. If these are not available, a clay > > > pot-jar which has been fired in a pottery making kiln (not just dried in > > > the sun). > > > > > > A wooden drum or barrel which has a tap at the right is best. > > > > > > 2) Soft Water > > > Water from a spring or from showers of rain is called " soft water " , > > > because it does not have metallic or acidic chemicals in it. > > > > > > This makes it useful for soap making, as there are no other chemicals in > > > it which would get in the way of making soap. > > > > > > `Ordinary' bore, well, or river water can be used for making soap, but > > > this will sometimes need to have a " washing soda " or " baking soda " in > > > added to it. Otherwise some of the chemicals in the water will get in > > > the way of making the soap. > > > > > > If you are using `ordinary' water and you want to test it to see if some > > > soda needs to be added, simply try to make soap bubble up (foam) in it. > > > > > > If the soap easily foams up, the water is probably ok as it is. > > > > > > If not, try adding a little bit of soda at a time stirring it to make it > > > disappear, until the water will foam the soap up. > > > > > > Then add the same amount of soda to the same amounts of the water that > > > you wish to use to make the soap. For example, if you were testing a 1/4 > > > (a quarter) of a bucket of water, and you ended up needing 1/8 (an > > > eighth) of a cup of soda, then you would need 4/8 ( or 1/2-half) a cup > > > of soda for a full bucket of 'ordinary' water. > > > > > > However you have got it, store the " soft water " in covered wooden, > > > plastic, or stainless steel buckets or containers. (Again, a clay-jar as > > > described above can be used if needed.) > > > > > > " SAFE " CONTAINERS > > > Any of the types of containers, buckets, barrels or jars described in > > > the White Ashes or Soft Water sections are called " safe containers " . > > > > > > MAKING " LYE WATER " > > > > > > If you are going to use a large barrel or drum to make the lye water in, > > > and it has a tap or hole at the right, place some kind of filter on the > > > inside of the barrel around the opening (as shown in the diagrams). > > > > > > Fill the barrel with white ashes to about four inches (10 cm or O.1 > > > metre) below the top. > > > | > > > Boil half (1/2) a bucket full of soft water (about 10 pints or six > > > litre), and pour over the ashes. > > > > > > Slowly add more cold soft water until liquid drips out of the barrel. > > > Close the tap or block the hole. > > > > > > Add more ashes to top the barrel up again, and more soft water. Do not > > > add so much water that the ashes swim. > > > > > > Leave to stand for four or more hours (or over night if you have the > > > time). Later pour the brownish lye water into a plastic or other " safe " > > > container(s). Then pour back through the ashes again. Let the lye water > > > drip into " safe " containers. > > > When the brown lye water stops coming out of the barrel, or ash > > > container, then pour four to five pints (2½ to three litre) of soft > > > water through the ashes, collecting the lye which comes out in a > > > separate " safe " container (as this lye may be weaker than the first lot). > > > > > > Repeat this using two to three pints (one to two litre) of soft water, > > > until no more brown liquid comes out of the ashes. > > > > > > Either put the lye into " safe " bottles, or cover the " safe " containers > > > which it is in. Dig the ashes into the vegetable garden. > > > -------- > > ------ > > > KEEP LYE WATER AWAY FROM CHILDREN. > > > LYE WATER IS DANGEROUS ! > > > -------- > > ------ > > > > > > LYE WATER STRENGTH. > > > If an egg or potato will float just below half way, or a chicken feather > > > starts to dissolve in it, then the lye water is at the right strength. > > > > > > If the egg will not float, then the lye water could be boiled down if > > > you wanted it to be stronger. > > > > > > If the egg seems to pop up too far, add a little bit of soft water (a > > > cup at a time) stirring the lye water, until the egg floats so that its > > > head pops up. > > > > > > > > > > > > Chris Ziegler wrote: > > > > > > > Howdy folks, > > > > > > > > I've lost all of my bookmarks (ah, still living in my computer hell - > > > > for the past few months now!) SO, I was wondering if anyone here happens > > > > to have the URL for that web site that discusses how to make your own > > > > lye from scratch from ash ... I've got the woodburning stove rockin and > > > > rollin', and I have no life *LOL*, so I might as well try another > > > > project, right? > > > > Thanks in advance! > > > > > > > > *Smile* > > > > Chris (list mom) > > > > > > > > http://www.alittleolfactory.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > My Pictures of Aromatic Plants and Exotic Places In Turkey > > > http://members.home.net/chrisziggy1/triptoturkey.html > > > > > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted December 22, 2001 Report Share Posted December 22, 2001 You must be an artist then. I tried M & P and it always looked so......... " Neutrogena " like, that i crossed over into CP. I haven't a creative bone in my body. I think it takes way more talent to do M & P. It's the mad scientist in me that makes me do the lye and oil " thing " . You'll be hopelessly addicted to both habits soon beauty! - " Kathleen Petrides " <petrides5 > I make M & P. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted December 22, 2001 Report Share Posted December 22, 2001 Hi Kathleen, I have recently started playing with M & P and thought I would make some to give as gifts. I got some from Chris to try it out and it was fine. Due to timing, I picked some up at Walmart and tried to use it and it has a awful smell to it. After trying several different blends in it I can't get anything to cover up the smell of the, I guess, solvent or whatever they add to it. I purchased Coconut M & P same brand and it doesn't have the smell that the colored red and green glycerine does. Do you have any suggestions so that I don't end up throwing this out? I don't want to use too much EO safety wise and this stuff is starting to give me a headache (it really stinks). Although, maybe I should just chuck it. If it's giving me a headache it probably isn't good to use anyway. Have you had this experience or did I just by junky soap? Thanks, Dawn Kupst - " Kathleen Petrides " <petrides5 Friday, December 21, 2001 7:20 PM Re: Making Lye From Scratch? > Hey Marilyn > > I make M & P. Been too darned chicken to make soap with Lye. However thanks to > you guys and some lovely ladies on another list, I'm girding my loins to do > something really brave and make some " Real " soap. > > I say " Real " soap, because (and no, none of you lovely ladies) are quite > scornful of M & P. I do like it though. You can do a lot with it...blah blah > blah...shan't bore y'all with repeating what you already know about it > (including the nasty humectants LOL) > Cheers! > Kathleen Petrides > SmeLLeNNiuM: 101 Aromatic Stories > http://www.101aromas.com > AND > Snuggle'ums: Organic Wheat Berry Microwavable Pillows for the whole family! > http://www.snuggleumpkins.com > > > - > " Marilyn Nicholson " <menicholson7 > > Friday, December 21, 2001 4:10 PM > Re: Making Lye From Scratch? > > > > Hiya, > > > > Real soap??? ROFL, as opposed to " fake " soap? what the heck ya been makin, > gal? > > <grinz> > > > > Hugs, > > > > Marilyn > > > > Kathleen Petrides wrote: > > > > > Seems like WAY too much trouble for me. I take it you're going to do > this? > > > If so, let me/us know if there is a difference in the soap. > > > > > > New years resolution: (aint it that time again?) I'm going to try and > make > > > " Real " soap this next year! > > > > > > Cheers! > > > Kathleen Petrides > > > SmeLLeNNiuM: 101 Aromatic Stories > > > http://www.101aromas.com > > > AND > > > Snuggle'ums: Organic Wheat Berry Microwavable Pillows for the whole > Family! > > > http://www.snuggleumpkins.com > > > > > > - > > > " Chris Ziegler " <chrisziggy1 > > > > > > Friday, December 21, 2001 1:27 PM > > > Re: Making Lye From Scratch? > > > > > > > Check it out! > > > > > > > > http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/paul_norman_3/soapmake.htm > > > > > > > > *Smile* > > > > > > > > Chris (list mom) > > > > http://www.alittleolfactory.com > > > > ~~~~~~~~~~~ > > > > > > > > MAKING " LYE WATER " > > > > Soap making uses a `caustic solution' known as " Lye Water " . > > > > > > > > When available, Caustic Soda is used. Here we will make Lye Water out > of > > > > certain wood ashes and " soft water " . > > > > > > > > 1) White Ashes > > > > Dried palm branches, dried out banana peels, cocoa pods, kapok tree > > > > wood, oak wood, (or for really white soap, apple tree wood) make the > > > > best lye ashes. Ordinary wood used in cooking fires will do. > > > > > > > > Whatever wood is used, it should be burned in a very hot fire to make > > > > very white ashes. > > > > > > > > When cold, these are stored in a covered plastic bucket or wooden > > > > barrel, or stainless steel container. If these are not available, a > clay > > > > pot-jar which has been fired in a pottery making kiln (not just dried > in > > > > the sun). > > > > > > > > A wooden drum or barrel which has a tap at the right is best. > > > > > > > > 2) Soft Water > > > > Water from a spring or from showers of rain is called " soft water " , > > > > because it does not have metallic or acidic chemicals in it. > > > > > > > > This makes it useful for soap making, as there are no other chemicals > in > > > > it which would get in the way of making soap. > > > > > > > > `Ordinary' bore, well, or river water can be used for making soap, but > > > > this will sometimes need to have a " washing soda " or " baking soda " in > > > > added to it. Otherwise some of the chemicals in the water will get in > > > > the way of making the soap. > > > > > > > > If you are using `ordinary' water and you want to test it to see if > some > > > > soda needs to be added, simply try to make soap bubble up (foam) in > it. > > > > > > > > If the soap easily foams up, the water is probably ok as it is. > > > > > > > > If not, try adding a little bit of soda at a time stirring it to make > it > > > > disappear, until the water will foam the soap up. > > > > > > > > Then add the same amount of soda to the same amounts of the water that > > > > you wish to use to make the soap. For example, if you were testing a > 1/4 > > > > (a quarter) of a bucket of water, and you ended up needing 1/8 (an > > > > eighth) of a cup of soda, then you would need 4/8 ( or 1/2-half) a cup > > > > of soda for a full bucket of 'ordinary' water. > > > > > > > > However you have got it, store the " soft water " in covered wooden, > > > > plastic, or stainless steel buckets or containers. (Again, a clay-jar > as > > > > described above can be used if needed.) > > > > > > > > " SAFE " CONTAINERS > > > > Any of the types of containers, buckets, barrels or jars described in > > > > the White Ashes or Soft Water sections are called " safe containers " . > > > > > > > > MAKING " LYE WATER " > > > > > > > > If you are going to use a large barrel or drum to make the lye water > in, > > > > and it has a tap or hole at the right, place some kind of filter on > the > > > > inside of the barrel around the opening (as shown in the diagrams). > > > > > > > > Fill the barrel with white ashes to about four inches (10 cm or O.1 > > > > metre) below the top. > > > > | > > > > Boil half (1/2) a bucket full of soft water (about 10 pints or six > > > > litre), and pour over the ashes. > > > > > > > > Slowly add more cold soft water until liquid drips out of the barrel. > > > > Close the tap or block the hole. > > > > > > > > Add more ashes to top the barrel up again, and more soft water. Do not > > > > add so much water that the ashes swim. > > > > > > > > Leave to stand for four or more hours (or over night if you have the > > > > time). Later pour the brownish lye water into a plastic or other > " safe " > > > > container(s). Then pour back through the ashes again. Let the lye > water > > > > drip into " safe " containers. > > > > When the brown lye water stops coming out of the barrel, or ash > > > > container, then pour four to five pints (2½ to three litre) of soft > > > > water through the ashes, collecting the lye which comes out in a > > > > separate " safe " container (as this lye may be weaker than the first > lot). > > > > > > > > Repeat this using two to three pints (one to two litre) of soft water, > > > > until no more brown liquid comes out of the ashes. > > > > > > > > Either put the lye into " safe " bottles, or cover the " safe " containers > > > > which it is in. Dig the ashes into the vegetable garden. > > > > > -------- > > > ------ > > > > KEEP LYE WATER AWAY FROM CHILDREN. > > > > LYE WATER IS DANGEROUS ! > > > > > -------- > > > ------ > > > > > > > > LYE WATER STRENGTH. > > > > If an egg or potato will float just below half way, or a chicken > feather > > > > starts to dissolve in it, then the lye water is at the right strength. > > > > > > > > If the egg will not float, then the lye water could be boiled down if > > > > you wanted it to be stronger. > > > > > > > > If the egg seems to pop up too far, add a little bit of soft water (a > > > > cup at a time) stirring the lye water, until the egg floats so that > its > > > > head pops up. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Chris Ziegler wrote: > > > > > > > > > Howdy folks, > > > > > > > > > > I've lost all of my bookmarks (ah, still living in my computer > hell - > > > > > for the past few months now!) SO, I was wondering if anyone here > happens > > > > > to have the URL for that web site that discusses how to make your > own > > > > > lye from scratch from ash ... I've got the woodburning stove rockin > and > > > > > rollin', and I have no life *LOL*, so I might as well try another > > > > > project, right? > > > > > Thanks in advance! > > > > > > > > > > *Smile* > > > > > Chris (list mom) > > > > > > > > > > http://www.alittleolfactory.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > My Pictures of Aromatic Plants and Exotic Places In Turkey > > > > http://members.home.net/chrisziggy1/triptoturkey.html > > > > > > > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted December 22, 2001 Report Share Posted December 22, 2001 I wanna try it, even just once for the novelty - and to be able to brag ... " oh yeah, I've made my own lye from scratch even " Pretty unusual conversation at a party for sure! *ROFL* *Smile* Chris (list mom) http://www.alittleolfactory.com Kathleen Petrides wrote: > Seems like WAY too much trouble for me. I take it you're going to do this? > If so, let me/us know if there is a difference in the soap. > > New years resolution: (aint it that time again?) I'm going to try and make > " Real " soap this next year! > > Cheers! > Kathleen Petrides > SmeLLeNNiuM: 101 Aromatic Stories > http://www.101aromas.com > AND > Snuggle'ums: Organic Wheat Berry Microwavable Pillows for the whole > Family! > http://www.snuggleumpkins.com > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted December 22, 2001 Report Share Posted December 22, 2001 Hiya Kathleen! Bore me, please, I'm chicken of all of it <grin> I've never made " any " soap! May never make any either............ROFL The lye does scare me though, and the M & P sounds easier, safer and nice, but I'd have no clue what in heck I was doing.........I " use " natural soaps, but then again, someone else makes them, not me!!!! Hugs, Marilyn (who thinks you're brave) :-) Kathleen Petrides wrote: > Hey Marilyn > > I make M & P. Been too darned chicken to make soap with Lye. However thanks to > you guys and some lovely ladies on another list, I'm girding my loins to do > something really brave and make some " Real " soap. > > I say " Real " soap, because (and no, none of you lovely ladies) are quite > scornful of M & P. I do like it though. You can do a lot with it...blah blah > blah...shan't bore y'all with repeating what you already know about it > (including the nasty humectants LOL) > Cheers! > Kathleen Petrides > SmeLLeNNiuM: 101 Aromatic Stories > http://www.101aromas.com > AND > Snuggle'ums: Organic Wheat Berry Microwavable Pillows for the whole family! > http://www.snuggleumpkins.com > > - > " Marilyn Nicholson " <menicholson7 > > Friday, December 21, 2001 4:10 PM > Re: Making Lye From Scratch? > > > Hiya, > > > > Real soap??? ROFL, as opposed to " fake " soap? what the heck ya been makin, > gal? > > <grinz> > > > > Hugs, > > > > Marilyn > > > > Kathleen Petrides wrote: > > > > > Seems like WAY too much trouble for me. I take it you're going to do > this? > > > If so, let me/us know if there is a difference in the soap. > > > > > > New years resolution: (aint it that time again?) I'm going to try and > make > > > " Real " soap this next year! > > > > > > Cheers! > > > Kathleen Petrides > > > SmeLLeNNiuM: 101 Aromatic Stories > > > http://www.101aromas.com > > > AND > > > Snuggle'ums: Organic Wheat Berry Microwavable Pillows for the whole > Family! > > > http://www.snuggleumpkins.com > > > > > > - > > > " Chris Ziegler " <chrisziggy1 > > > > > > Friday, December 21, 2001 1:27 PM > > > Re: Making Lye From Scratch? > > > > > > > Check it out! > > > > > > > > http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/paul_norman_3/soapmake.htm > > > > > > > > *Smile* > > > > > > > > Chris (list mom) > > > > http://www.alittleolfactory.com > > > > ~~~~~~~~~~~ > > > > > > > > MAKING " LYE WATER " > > > > Soap making uses a `caustic solution' known as " Lye Water " . > > > > > > > > When available, Caustic Soda is used. Here we will make Lye Water out > of > > > > certain wood ashes and " soft water " . > > > > > > > > 1) White Ashes > > > > Dried palm branches, dried out banana peels, cocoa pods, kapok tree > > > > wood, oak wood, (or for really white soap, apple tree wood) make the > > > > best lye ashes. Ordinary wood used in cooking fires will do. > > > > > > > > Whatever wood is used, it should be burned in a very hot fire to make > > > > very white ashes. > > > > > > > > When cold, these are stored in a covered plastic bucket or wooden > > > > barrel, or stainless steel container. If these are not available, a > clay > > > > pot-jar which has been fired in a pottery making kiln (not just dried > in > > > > the sun). > > > > > > > > A wooden drum or barrel which has a tap at the right is best. > > > > > > > > 2) Soft Water > > > > Water from a spring or from showers of rain is called " soft water " , > > > > because it does not have metallic or acidic chemicals in it. > > > > > > > > This makes it useful for soap making, as there are no other chemicals > in > > > > it which would get in the way of making soap. > > > > > > > > `Ordinary' bore, well, or river water can be used for making soap, but > > > > this will sometimes need to have a " washing soda " or " baking soda " in > > > > added to it. Otherwise some of the chemicals in the water will get in > > > > the way of making the soap. > > > > > > > > If you are using `ordinary' water and you want to test it to see if > some > > > > soda needs to be added, simply try to make soap bubble up (foam) in > it. > > > > > > > > If the soap easily foams up, the water is probably ok as it is. > > > > > > > > If not, try adding a little bit of soda at a time stirring it to make > it > > > > disappear, until the water will foam the soap up. > > > > > > > > Then add the same amount of soda to the same amounts of the water that > > > > you wish to use to make the soap. For example, if you were testing a > 1/4 > > > > (a quarter) of a bucket of water, and you ended up needing 1/8 (an > > > > eighth) of a cup of soda, then you would need 4/8 ( or 1/2-half) a cup > > > > of soda for a full bucket of 'ordinary' water. > > > > > > > > However you have got it, store the " soft water " in covered wooden, > > > > plastic, or stainless steel buckets or containers. (Again, a clay-jar > as > > > > described above can be used if needed.) > > > > > > > > " SAFE " CONTAINERS > > > > Any of the types of containers, buckets, barrels or jars described in > > > > the White Ashes or Soft Water sections are called " safe containers " . > > > > > > > > MAKING " LYE WATER " > > > > > > > > If you are going to use a large barrel or drum to make the lye water > in, > > > > and it has a tap or hole at the right, place some kind of filter on > the > > > > inside of the barrel around the opening (as shown in the diagrams). > > > > > > > > Fill the barrel with white ashes to about four inches (10 cm or O.1 > > > > metre) below the top. > > > > | > > > > Boil half (1/2) a bucket full of soft water (about 10 pints or six > > > > litre), and pour over the ashes. > > > > > > > > Slowly add more cold soft water until liquid drips out of the barrel. > > > > Close the tap or block the hole. > > > > > > > > Add more ashes to top the barrel up again, and more soft water. Do not > > > > add so much water that the ashes swim. > > > > > > > > Leave to stand for four or more hours (or over night if you have the > > > > time). Later pour the brownish lye water into a plastic or other > " safe " > > > > container(s). Then pour back through the ashes again. Let the lye > water > > > > drip into " safe " containers. > > > > When the brown lye water stops coming out of the barrel, or ash > > > > container, then pour four to five pints (2½ to three litre) of soft > > > > water through the ashes, collecting the lye which comes out in a > > > > separate " safe " container (as this lye may be weaker than the first > lot). > > > > > > > > Repeat this using two to three pints (one to two litre) of soft water, > > > > until no more brown liquid comes out of the ashes. > > > > > > > > Either put the lye into " safe " bottles, or cover the " safe " containers > > > > which it is in. Dig the ashes into the vegetable garden. > > > > > -------- > > > ------ > > > > KEEP LYE WATER AWAY FROM CHILDREN. > > > > LYE WATER IS DANGEROUS ! > > > > > -------- > > > ------ > > > > > > > > LYE WATER STRENGTH. > > > > If an egg or potato will float just below half way, or a chicken > feather > > > > starts to dissolve in it, then the lye water is at the right strength. > > > > > > > > If the egg will not float, then the lye water could be boiled down if > > > > you wanted it to be stronger. > > > > > > > > If the egg seems to pop up too far, add a little bit of soft water (a > > > > cup at a time) stirring the lye water, until the egg floats so that > its > > > > head pops up. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Chris Ziegler wrote: > > > > > > > > > Howdy folks, > > > > > > > > > > I've lost all of my bookmarks (ah, still living in my computer > hell - > > > > > for the past few months now!) SO, I was wondering if anyone here > happens > > > > > to have the URL for that web site that discusses how to make your > own > > > > > lye from scratch from ash ... I've got the woodburning stove rockin > and > > > > > rollin', and I have no life *LOL*, so I might as well try another > > > > > project, right? > > > > > Thanks in advance! > > > > > > > > > > *Smile* > > > > > Chris (list mom) > > > > > > > > > > http://www.alittleolfactory.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > My Pictures of Aromatic Plants and Exotic Places In Turkey > > > > http://members.home.net/chrisziggy1/triptoturkey.html > > > > > > > > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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