Guest guest Posted June 25, 2004 Report Share Posted June 25, 2004 I am sorry, but I just have to post a reply on this. I make homemade soaps and this is really a bad thing to post. Many people do not know anything about soapmaking and to follow this recipe as it is written can result in disastrous consequences. Unless one has a "working" knowledge of soapmaking, trying this recipe as it is would never work. Making soap is not like making a cake or cookies, it is much more complex. There are many factors involved, not the least of which are safety concerns, using proper utensils, correct weights/measures of ingredients, temperatures, what type of fats/oils, and lye...if I didn't know anything about soaping, I would probably just pick up a can of Drano. You cannot ever use Drano to make soap. Gloves are not only adviseable, but necessary as are goggles and clothing to cover your arms, legs and feet when working with lye. It is extremely caustic and will burn your skin, and trust me, it hurts. And not just the lye water, but even after you mix it into the fats/oils (called raw soap), it is still extremely caustic. If you simply pour lye into any milk product, it will burn (unless your temps are very low, frozen milk preferred) which will cause your mixture to smell like ammonia as well as your entire house, and could remain in the soap. For this type of soap, it is called "cold process" and it needs to cure for at least 4 weeks (6 weeks is even better) in order for the saponification (lye "cooking" the fats) process to be completed and the lye no longer "present". Too much lye, caustic soap. Too little lye, soap that won't cure or harden and could develop mold or other problems. You just can't approach soapmaking as you would cooking...a bit of this, a bit of that, etc. It needs to be more exact, and even then disasters can happen. So, if you want to make soap and are inexperienced, there are many sites available to guide you and give you instructions on how to do so. There are many methods for making soap, cooking in crockpots, in the oven, and cold process to name a few and as I said, there are many good sites to help. I won't mention any, but if anyone would like to know, they can email me privately and I'll answer. Otherwise, you can just do a search on , google or whatever by entering "soapmaking" or "homemade soaps" etc. Paula Lori Holcomb <diznygrl wrote: GOAT MILK SOAP1 can lye3 pt. goat milk5 1/2 lb. clear, lukewarm fat4 heaping Tbsp. Borax2 c. finely ground oatmeal2 oz. glycerinDo not use metal container. Gloves are advisable (usecanner). Pour lye into goat milk. Stir carefully with woodenspoon. When mix is lukewarm (feel the outside of the container) pour 5 1/2 pounds clear, lukewarm fat into it. Keepstirring continuously. Add Borax and oatmeal. Add glycerinand stir 15 minutes to 1/2 hour or until it starts to harden,stirring occasionally. Shape into balls (with gloves on) oruse small Styrofoam cups (4 to 6 ounces). Ripen 3 to 4 weeks.Store loosely. Paper bag on shelf is fine. Lori H. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted June 25, 2004 Report Share Posted June 25, 2004 PAula thanks so much for this information .. also i dont use anything that takes lye to make as i dont think it is natural to start with .. just my opinion .. i dont know how it can be natural if it has a poison in it .. MaryPaula <pstumpjr wrote: I am sorry, but I just have to post a reply on this. I make homemade soaps and this is really a bad thing to post. Many people do not know anything about soapmaking and to follow this recipe as it is written can result in disastrous consequences. Unless one has a "working" knowledge of soapmaking, trying this recipe as it is would never work. Making soap is not like making a cake or cookies, it is much more complex. There are many factors involved, not the least of which are safety concerns, using proper utensils, correct weights/measures of ingredients, temperatures, what type of fats/oils, and lye...if I didn't know anything about soaping, I would probably just pick up a can of Drano. You cannot ever use Drano to make soap. Gloves are not only adviseable, but necessary as are goggles and clothing to cover your arms, legs and feet when working with lye. It is extremely caustic and will burn your skin, and trust me, it hurts. And not just the lye water, but even after you mix it into the fats/oils (called raw soap), it is still extremely caustic. If you simply pour lye into any milk product, it will burn (unless your temps are very low, frozen milk preferred) which will cause your mixture to smell like ammonia as well as your entire house, and could remain in the soap. For this type of soap, it is called "cold process" and it needs to cure for at least 4 weeks (6 weeks is even better) in order for the saponification (lye "cooking" the fats) process to be completed and the lye no longer "present". Too much lye, caustic soap. Too little lye, soap that won't cure or harden and could develop mold or other problems. You just can't approach soapmaking as you would cooking...a bit of this, a bit of that, etc. It needs to be more exact, and even then disasters can happen. So, if you want to make soap and are inexperienced, there are many sites available to guide you and give you instructions on how to do so. There are many methods for making soap, cooking in crockpots, in the oven, and cold process to name a few and as I said, there are many good sites to help. I won't mention any, but if anyone would like to know, they can email me privately and I'll answer. Otherwise, you can just do a search on , google or whatever by entering "soapmaking" or "homemade soaps" etc. Paula Lori Holcomb <diznygrl wrote: GOAT MILK SOAP1 can lye3 pt. goat milk5 1/2 lb. clear, lukewarm fat4 heaping Tbsp. Borax2 c. finely ground oatmeal2 oz. glycerinDo not use metal container. Gloves are advisable (usecanner). Pour lye into goat milk. Stir carefully with woodenspoon. When mix is lukewarm (feel the outside of the container) pour 5 1/2 pounds clear, lukewarm fat into it. Keepstirring continuously. Add Borax and oatmeal. Add glycerinand stir 15 minutes to 1/2 hour or until it starts to harden,stirring occasionally. Shape into balls (with gloves on) oruse small Styrofoam cups (4 to 6 ounces). Ripen 3 to 4 weeks.Store loosely. Paper bag on shelf is fine. Lori H. That best portion of a good man's life - His little, nameless, unremembered acts of kindness and of love. ~ William Wordsworth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted June 26, 2004 Report Share Posted June 26, 2004 Lye is a natural reaction - water added to wood ash = lye, in some form. Lye + fats= soap. If you don't have lye, you don't have soap. Even clear, glycerin soap includes lye. Most "soaps" you buy in the store are actually detergent/surfacant blends - definitely not natural! There are a few "natural" cleaners - soapwort is one off the top of my head. But if you buy "natural" soap, it has lye somewhere. Most M & P bases have chemicals such as EDTA added. I suggest that you really read labels, and then ask the maker/distributor - "So, what is your glycerin soap made from?" You may be surprised. HTH, Bobbie, LGR - Mary 6/25/2004 10:14:43 AM Re: GOAT MILK SOAP/ bad thing PAula thanks so much for this information .. also i dont use anything that takes lye to make as i dont think it is natural to start with .. just my opinion .. i dont know how it can be natural if it has a poison in it .. MaryPaula <pstumpjr wrote: I am sorry, but I just have to post a reply on this. I make homemade soaps and this is really a bad thing to post. Many people do not know anything about soapmaking and to follow this recipe as it is written can result in disastrous consequences. Unless one has a "working" knowledge of soapmaking, trying this recipe as it is would never work. Making soap is not like making a cake or cookies, it is much more complex. There are many factors involved, not the least of which are safety concerns, using proper utensils, correct weights/measures of ingredients, temperatures, what type of fats/oils, and lye...if I didn't know anything about soaping, I would probably just pick up a can of Drano. You cannot ever use Drano to make soap. Gloves are not only adviseable, but necessary as are goggles and clothing to cover your arms, legs and feet when working with lye. It is extremely caustic and will burn your skin, and trust me, it hurts. And not just the lye water, but even after you mix it into the fats/oils (called raw soap), it is still extremely caustic. If you simply pour lye into any milk product, it will burn (unless your temps are very low, frozen milk preferred) which will cause your mixture to smell like ammonia as well as your entire house, and could remain in the soap. For this type of soap, it is called "cold process" and it needs to cure for at least 4 weeks (6 weeks is even better) in order for the saponification (lye "cooking" the fats) process to be completed and the lye no longer "present". Too much lye, caustic soap. Too little lye, soap that won't cure or harden and could develop mold or other problems. You just can't approach soapmaking as you would cooking...a bit of this, a bit of that, etc. It needs to be more exact, and even then disasters can happen. So, if you want to make soap and are inexperienced, there are many sites available to guide you and give you instructions on how to do so. There are many methods for making soap, cooking in crockpots, in the oven, and cold process to name a few and as I said, there are many good sites to help. I won't mention any, but if anyone would like to know, they can email me privately and I'll answer. Otherwise, you can just do a search on , google or whatever by entering "soapmaking" or "homemade soaps" etc. Paula Lori Holcomb <diznygrl wrote: GOAT MILK SOAP1 can lye3 pt. goat milk5 1/2 lb. clear, lukewarm fat4 heaping Tbsp. Borax2 c. finely ground oatmeal2 oz. glycerinDo not use metal container. Gloves are advisable (usecanner). Pour lye into goat milk. Stir carefully with woodenspoon. When mix is lukewarm (feel the outside of the container) pour 5 1/2 pounds clear, lukewarm fat into it. Keepstirring continuously. Add Borax and oatmeal. Add glycerinand stir 15 minutes to 1/2 hour or until it starts to harden,stirring occasionally. Shape into balls (with gloves on) oruse small Styrofoam cups (4 to 6 ounces). Ripen 3 to 4 weeks.Store loosely. Paper bag on shelf is fine. Lori H. That best portion of a good man's life - His little, nameless, unremembered acts of kindness and of love. ~ William Wordsworth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted June 26, 2004 Report Share Posted June 26, 2004 Hi, I am also a soaper, who just joined this list. I thought Paula's response was very good. I've seen such recipes posted in all sorts of different places without saying much of anything about what Paula mentioned, and it bugs me every time. Yay Paula for speaking up! However, I would like to reply to the response. 3 points: 1- All real soap requires lye to make. The only way you can use " soap " otherwise is to use a detergent, which is far less natural. (Detergent is petroleum based.) 2- Correctly made soap has no lye in the finished product. It is a chemical reaction, meaning that the molecular structure and composition of the ingredients changes. So true soap (made with lye) does not, in fact, have any " poison " in it if it has been made properly insuring a full reaction (hence the 4 week curing time that Paula mentioned.) 3- Lye is not necessarily unnatural, actually. The form of lye originally used to make soaps, potassium hydroxide, can be derived from wood ashes simply by soaking them in water. Not that I reccomend trying that. The type of lye used nowadays to make hard bar soap, sodium hydroxide, is usually produced in a lab (from table salt), but this does not make it any more or less safe than " natural " lye. Nature is full of poisons. All in all, even though it does take care and a chemical reaction to make, homemade soaps are great. They're better for the environment and better for the skin. You just have to make sure you know what you're doing first. ~Sarah , Mary <spiritualpathways> wrote: > PAula > thanks so much for this information .. also i dont use anything that takes lye to make as i dont think it is natural to start with .. just my opinion .. i dont know how it can be natural if it has a poison in it .. > Mary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted June 27, 2004 Report Share Posted June 27, 2004 robin i dont buy any soap fro the store .. i also dont buy the glycerin soaps so dont understand the question about that either . i do not use bar soap of any kind either .. i use some liquid soap that is made by a local soap maker here .. and no lye is used in it according to the label she puts on it ... maryRobin Eastman <lostgirls wrote: Lye is a natural reaction - water added to wood ash = lye, in some form. Lye + fats= soap. If you don't have lye, you don't have soap. Even clear, glycerin soap includes lye. Most "soaps" you buy in the store are actually detergent/surfacant blends - definitely not natural! There are a few "natural" cleaners - soapwort is one off the top of my head. But if you buy "natural" soap, it has lye somewhere. Most M & P bases have chemicals such as EDTA added. I suggest that you really read labels, and then ask the maker/distributor - "So, what is your glycerin soap made from?" You may be surprised. HTH, Bobbie, LGR - Mary 6/25/2004 10:14:43 AM Re: GOAT MILK SOAP/ bad thing PAula thanks so much for this information .. also i dont use anything that takes lye to make as i dont think it is natural to start with .. just my opinion .. i dont know how it can be natural if it has a poison in it .. MaryPaula <pstumpjr wrote: I am sorry, but I just have to post a reply on this. I make homemade soaps and this is really a bad thing to post. Many people do not know anything about soapmaking and to follow this recipe as it is written can result in disastrous consequences. Unless one has a "working" knowledge of soapmaking, trying this recipe as it is would never work. Making soap is not like making a cake or cookies, it is much more complex. There are many factors involved, not the least of which are safety concerns, using proper utensils, correct weights/measures of ingredients, temperatures, what type of fats/oils, and lye...if I didn't know anything about soaping, I would probably just pick up a can of Drano. You cannot ever use Drano to make soap. Gloves are not only adviseable, but necessary as are goggles and clothing to cover your arms, legs and feet when working with lye. It is extremely caustic and will burn your skin, and trust me, it hurts. And not just the lye water, but even after you mix it into the fats/oils (called raw soap), it is still extremely caustic. If you simply pour lye into any milk product, it will burn (unless your temps are very low, frozen milk preferred) which will cause your mixture to smell like ammonia as well as your entire house, and could remain in the soap. For this type of soap, it is called "cold process" and it needs to cure for at least 4 weeks (6 weeks is even better) in order for the saponification (lye "cooking" the fats) process to be completed and the lye no longer "present". Too much lye, caustic soap. Too little lye, soap that won't cure or harden and could develop mold or other problems. You just can't approach soapmaking as you would cooking...a bit of this, a bit of that, etc. It needs to be more exact, and even then disasters can happen. So, if you want to make soap and are inexperienced, there are many sites available to guide you and give you instructions on how to do so. There are many methods for making soap, cooking in crockpots, in the oven, and cold process to name a few and as I said, there are many good sites to help. I won't mention any, but if anyone would like to know, they can email me privately and I'll answer. Otherwise, you can just do a search on , google or whatever by entering "soapmaking" or "homemade soaps" etc. Paula Lori Holcomb <diznygrl wrote: GOAT MILK SOAP1 can lye3 pt. goat milk5 1/2 lb. clear, lukewarm fat4 heaping Tbsp. Borax2 c. finely ground oatmeal2 oz. glycerinDo not use metal container. Gloves are advisable (usecanner). Pour lye into goat milk. Stir carefully with woodenspoon. When mix is lukewarm (feel the outside of the container) pour 5 1/2 pounds clear, lukewarm fat into it. Keepstirring continuously. Add Borax and oatmeal. Add glycerinand stir 15 minutes to 1/2 hour or until it starts to harden,stirring occasionally. Shape into balls (with gloves on) oruse small Styrofoam cups (4 to 6 ounces). Ripen 3 to 4 weeks.Store loosely. Paper bag on shelf is fine. Lori H. That best portion of a good man's life - His little, nameless, unremembered acts of kindness and of love. ~ William Wordsworth That best portion of a good man's life - His little, nameless, unremembered acts of kindness and of love. ~ William Wordsworth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted June 28, 2004 Report Share Posted June 28, 2004 It took me a couple days to decide to post a reply to the recipe. The main reason was that I just didn't want anyone to try this recipe as it is written. It may be a decent soap provided someone balanced it out and had the correct ratio of lye to fats. But, using approx 18 oz lye to 88 oz oil/fat is just asking for trouble. Way too much lye. I wasn't sure why the addition of glycerin since there's enough naturally in the soap when made anyway. I do want to clear up any misconceptions my post may have created....I was NOT criticizing the person who posted it, ONLY the recipe itself. So, I hope I did not step on toes or hurt any feelings. Sarah Fricke <auroravioletta wrote: Hi, I am also a soaper, who just joined this list. I thought Paula's response was very good. I've seen such recipes posted in all sorts of different places without saying much of anything about what Paula mentioned, and it bugs me every time. Yay Paula for speaking up!However, I would like to reply to the response.3 points:1- All real soap requires lye to make. The only way you can use "soap" otherwise is to use a detergent, which is far less natural. (Detergent is petroleum based.)2- Correctly made soap has no lye in the finished product. It is a chemical reaction, meaning that the molecular structure and composition of the ingredients changes. So true soap (made with lye) does not, in fact, have any "poison" in it if it has been made properly insuring a full reaction (hence the 4 week curing time that Paula mentioned.)3- Lye is not necessarily unnatural, actually. The form of lye originally used to make soaps, potassium hydroxide, can be derived from wood ashes simply by soaking them in water. Not that I reccomend trying that. The type of lye used nowadays to make hard bar soap, sodium hydroxide, is usually produced in a lab (from table salt), but this does not make it any more or less safe than "natural" lye. Nature is full of poisons. All in all, even though it does take care and a chemical reaction to make, homemade soaps are great. They're better for the environment and better for the skin. You just have to make sure you know what you're doing first. ~Sarah , Mary <spiritualpathways> wrote:> PAula > thanks so much for this information .. also i dont use anything that takes lye to make as i dont think it is natural to start with .. just my opinion .. i dont know how it can be natural if it has a poison in it .. > Mary New and Improved Mail - Send 10MB messages! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted June 28, 2004 Report Share Posted June 28, 2004 I must say i find this whole soap discussion pretty interesting LOL anyway hope everyone is ok take care Jose " the Natural Man " Mary wrote: > robin > i dont buy any soap fro the store .. i also dont buy the glycerin > soaps so dont understand the question about that either . > i do not use bar soap of any kind either .. > i use some liquid soap that is made by a local soap maker here .. and > no lye is used in it according to the label she puts on it ... > mary > > */Robin Eastman <lostgirls/* wrote: > > Lye is a natural reaction - water added to wood ash = lye, in some > form. Lye + fats= soap. If you don't have lye, you don't have > soap. Even clear, glycerin soap includes lye. Most " soaps " you > buy in the store are actually detergent/surfacant blends - > definitely not natural! > There are a few " natural " cleaners - soapwort is one off the top > of my head. But if you buy " natural " soap, it has lye somewhere. > Most M & P bases have chemicals such as EDTA added. I suggest that > you really read labels, and then ask the maker/distributor - " So, > what is your glycerin soap made from? " You may be surprised. > HTH, > Bobbie, LGR > > > > - > ** Mary <spiritualpathways > ** > > *Sent:* 6/25/2004 10:14:43 AM > *Subject:* Re: GOAT MILK SOAP/ bad thing > > PAula > thanks so much for this information .. also i dont use > anything that takes lye to make as i dont think it is natural > to start with .. just my opinion .. i dont know how it can be > natural if it has a poison in it .. > Mary > > */Paula <pstumpjr/* wrote: > > I am sorry, but I just have to post a reply on this. I > make homemade soaps and this is really a bad thing to > post. Many people do not know anything about soapmaking > and to follow this recipe as it is written can result in > disastrous consequences. Unless one has a " working " > knowledge of soapmaking, trying this recipe as it is would > never work. Making soap is not like making a cake or > cookies, it is much more complex. There are many factors > involved, not the least of which are safety concerns, > using proper utensils, correct weights/measures of > ingredients, temperatures, what type of fats/oils, and > lye...if I didn't know anything about soaping, I would > probably just pick up a can of Drano. You */cannot ever/* > use Drano to make soap. Gloves are not only adviseable, > but necessary as are goggles and clothing to cover your > arms, legs and feet when working with lye. It is > extremely caustic and will burn your skin, and trust me, > it hurts. And not just the lye water, but even after you > mix it into the fats/oils (called raw soap), it is still > extremely caustic. If you simply pour lye into any milk > product, it will burn (unless your temps are very low, > frozen milk preferred) which will cause your mixture to > smell like ammonia as well as your entire house, and could > remain in the soap. For this type of soap, it is called > " cold process " and it needs to cure for */at least/* 4 > weeks (6 weeks is even better) in order for the > saponification (lye " cooking " the fats) process to be > completed and the lye no longer " present " . Too much lye, > caustic soap. Too little lye, soap that won't cure or > harden and could develop mold or other problems. > You just can't approach soapmaking as you would > cooking...a bit of this, a bit of that, etc. It needs to > be more exact, and even then disasters can happen. > So, if you want to make soap and are inexperienced, there > are many sites available to guide you and give you > instructions on how to do so. There are many methods for > making soap, cooking in crockpots, in the oven, and cold > process to name a few and as I said, there are many good > sites to help. I won't mention any, but if anyone would > like to know, they can email me privately and I'll > answer. Otherwise, you can just do a search on , > google or whatever by entering " soapmaking " or " homemade > soaps " etc. > Paula > > > > */Lori Holcomb <diznygrl/* wrote: > > GOAT MILK SOAP > 1 can lye > 3 pt. goat milk > 5 1/2 lb. clear, lukewarm fat > 4 heaping Tbsp. Borax > 2 c. finely ground oatmeal > 2 oz. glycerin > > Do not use metal container. Gloves are advisable (use > canner). Pour lye into goat milk. Stir carefully with > wooden > spoon. When mix is lukewarm (feel the outside of the > container) pour 5 1/2 pounds clear, lukewarm fat into > it. Keep > stirring continuously. Add Borax and oatmeal. Add glycerin > and stir 15 minutes to 1/2 hour or until it starts to > harden, > stirring occasionally. Shape into balls (with gloves > on) or > use small Styrofoam cups (4 to 6 ounces). Ripen 3 to 4 > weeks. > Store loosely. Paper bag on shelf is fine. > > Lori H. > > > ------ > > Mail > <http://us.rd./mail_us/taglines/virus/*http://promotions./new_\ mail/static/protection.html> > - Helps protect you from nasty viruses. > > > > /*That best portion of a good man's life - His little, > nameless, unremembered acts of kindness and of love. ~ > William Wordsworth*/ > > > > ------ > > New and Improved Mail > <http://us.rd./mail_us/taglines/100/*http://promotions./new_ma\ il/static/efficiency.html> > - 100MB free storage! > > > > > /*That best portion of a good man's life - His little, nameless, > unremembered acts of kindness and of love. ~ William Wordsworth*/ > > > > ------ > > New and Improved Mail > <http://us.rd./mail_us/taglines/100/*http://promotions./new_ma\ il/static/efficiency.html> > - 100MB free storage! > * Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted June 28, 2004 Report Share Posted June 28, 2004 Sorry, just an FYI. Most folks that I've run into who swear that they cannot use lye products, also state that they only can use glycerin soap. Glycerin is a by product of the soapmaking process, and is incorporated into homemade soaps by the processes we use. When glycerin is extracted from soap, it is usually done by another chemical process, and then this chemical needs to be extracted form the glycerin - it gets less "natural". Bobbie - Mary 6/28/2004 7:00:57 AM Re: GOAT MILK SOAP/ bad thing robin i dont buy any soap fro the store .. i also dont buy the glycerin soaps so dont understand the question about that either . i do not use bar soap of any kind either .. i use some liquid soap that is made by a local soap maker here .. and no lye is used in it according to the label she puts on it ... maryRobin Eastman <lostgirls wrote: Lye is a natural reaction - water added to wood ash = lye, in some form. Lye + fats= soap. If you don't have lye, you don't have soap. Even clear, glycerin soap includes lye. Most "soaps" you buy in the store are actually detergent/surfacant blends - definitely not natural! There are a few "natural" cleaners - soapwort is one off the top of my head. But if you buy "natural" soap, it has lye somewhere. Most M & P bases have chemicals such as EDTA added. I suggest that you really read labels, and then ask the maker/distributor - "So, what is your glycerin soap made from?" You may be surprised. HTH, Bobbie, LGR - Mary 6/25/2004 10:14:43 AM Re: GOAT MILK SOAP/ bad thing PAula thanks so much for this information .. also i dont use anything that takes lye to make as i dont think it is natural to start with .. just my opinion .. i dont know how it can be natural if it has a poison in it .. MaryPaula <pstumpjr wrote: I am sorry, but I just have to post a reply on this. I make homemade soaps and this is really a bad thing to post. Many people do not know anything about soapmaking and to follow this recipe as it is written can result in disastrous consequences. Unless one has a "working" knowledge of soapmaking, trying this recipe as it is would never work. Making soap is not like making a cake or cookies, it is much more complex. There are many factors involved, not the least of which are safety concerns, using proper utensils, correct weights/measures of ingredients, temperatures, what type of fats/oils, and lye...if I didn't know anything about soaping, I would probably just pick up a can of Drano. You cannot ever use Drano to make soap. Gloves are not only adviseable, but necessary as are goggles and clothing to cover your arms, legs and feet when working with lye. It is extremely caustic and will burn your skin, and trust me, it hurts. And not just the lye water, but even after you mix it into the fats/oils (called raw soap), it is still extremely caustic. If you simply pour lye into any milk product, it will burn (unless your temps are very low, frozen milk preferred) which will cause your mixture to smell like ammonia as well as your entire house, and could remain in the soap. For this type of soap, it is called "cold process" and it needs to cure for at least 4 weeks (6 weeks is even better) in order for the saponification (lye "cooking" the fats) process to be completed and the lye no longer "present". Too much lye, caustic soap. Too little lye, soap that won't cure or harden and could develop mold or other problems. You just can't approach soapmaking as you would cooking...a bit of this, a bit of that, etc. It needs to be more exact, and even then disasters can happen. So, if you want to make soap and are inexperienced, there are many sites available to guide you and give you instructions on how to do so. There are many methods for making soap, cooking in crockpots, in the oven, and cold process to name a few and as I said, there are many good sites to help. I won't mention any, but if anyone would like to know, they can email me privately and I'll answer. Otherwise, you can just do a search on , google or whatever by entering "soapmaking" or "homemade soaps" etc. Paula Lori Holcomb <diznygrl wrote: GOAT MILK SOAP1 can lye3 pt. goat milk5 1/2 lb. clear, lukewarm fat4 heaping Tbsp. Borax2 c. finely ground oatmeal2 oz. glycerinDo not use metal container. Gloves are advisable (usecanner). Pour lye into goat milk. Stir carefully with woodenspoon. When mix is lukewarm (feel the outside of the container) pour 5 1/2 pounds clear, lukewarm fat into it. Keepstirring continuously. Add Borax and oatmeal. Add glycerinand stir 15 minutes to 1/2 hour or until it starts to harden,stirring occasionally. Shape into balls (with gloves on) oruse small Styrofoam cups (4 to 6 ounces). Ripen 3 to 4 weeks.Store loosely. Paper bag on shelf is fine. Lori H. That best portion of a good man's life - His little, nameless, unremembered acts of kindness and of love. ~ William Wordsworth That best portion of a good man's life - His little, nameless, unremembered acts of kindness and of love. ~ William Wordsworth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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