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Washington Post - http://www.washingtonpost.com

 

 

 

To view the entire article, go to

http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/articles/A12455-2002Jul16.html

 

Making More of Watermelons

 

By Ellen Ficklen

" Save the Rinds " sounds like an ecology slogan. And, in a way, it is. Because

that's what cooks at picnics and family gatherings say when they want to take

the leftovers and recycle them into something tasty.

 

Most cooks ask friends -- sometimes even strangers -- to save watermelon rinds

so they can make watermelon pickles, long a country classic, especially in the

South and Midwest. The " pickle " part of the name often confuses people, as does

the fact that it's the rind that's used, not the melon. Certainly, the result

isn't what most people think of as a pickle. A better descriptor is one of the

recipe's other names -- watermelon sweetmeats -- since it's made from pieces of

the white part of the watermelon rind cooked in a cinnamon- and clove-spiced

sugar syrup, plus a bit of vinegar. First-time tasters often are surprised to

find the sweet tidbit is quite delicious. ( " Joy of Cooking " has the recipe for

watermelon pickles, as do many church and community cookbooks produced across

the country, so it isn't included here with these lesser known rind recipes.)

 

But why cook watermelon rinds? Watermelons used to have much, much thicker

rinds. And in waste-not, want-not times and places, cooks came up with tasty

ways to use the huge chunks of rind. They soon discovered that once the rinds

were seasoned and softened by cooking, the one-time toss away became an

interesting, low-cost, recipe component.

 

Just look at old family photos where sliced watermelon is shown or at older

paintings that show an opened watermelon in a still life; what you'll see is

lots of white rind between the red melon meat and the green skin. Many so-called

heirloom or antique varieties of watermelons, in fact, still have rinds that are

noticeably thicker than the ones watermelons have today in grocery stores.

 

That's because for decades now, watermelon growers in the United States have

been working to reduce the amount of rind around a watermelon's ripe red meat.

Their goal is to have a rind that's thick enough not to break during shipping,

but thin enough to give buyers more melon -- and less rind -- for their money.

But alas, that means it isn't as easy for cooks to make watermelon-rind recipes

as it used to be even a generation ago.

 

Someday, clever growers, farm stands and grocery stores will catch on and make

a point of having some old-fashioned thick-rind watermelons available. In the

meantime, here are some watermelon-rind recipes worth saving your rinds for.

 

Fried Watermelon Rinds

 

(Makes 2 cups)

 

Think of this as the ultimate down-home snack food. Or as Southern-food guru

Nathalie Dupree puts it: " When the family is sitting around at home and there's

'nothing to eat,' try frying watermelon rinds. You'll be amazed at what a good

snack these make. "

 

Adapted from " New Southern Cooking " by Nathalie Dupree (Knopf, 1986).

 

1/3 cup cornmeal

 

1/3 cup all-purpose flour

 

1 teaspoon salt

 

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

 

1 cup vegetable oil

 

2 cups watermelon rind, cut into 1/2-inch cubes (white part only; green peel

and red pulp removed)

 

In a medium bowl, mix together the cornmeal, flour, salt and pepper. Set

aside.

 

In a 10-inch, cast-iron skillet or other deep-sided skillet over medium-high

heat, heat the oil to 350 degrees. Roll the cubed rind in the cornmeal mixture.

Carefully add several pieces of rind to the oil, being careful not to crowd the

oil. Fry, without turning, until lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir gently

and cook until golden brown on all sides, 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a plate

lined with a paper towel to drain. Taste and season with additional salt and

pepper as needed. Eat while hot.

 

Nutritional analysis not available

 

Watermelon " Butter "

 

(Servings vary)

 

This rind-based treat is somewhat akin to a fruit butter. It takes on a lovely

golden color and sure tastes good on morning toast. Like many old recipes, it

has a " by guess and by golly " approach to proportions. If you think it's too

sweet, add more grated rind; if you think it's not sweet enough, just add more

sugar. And you get to choose precisely the amount of ginger and lime you think

flavors it best.

 

A plus: Even if you usually buy watermelon only by the wedge, this rind recipe

works well. Have the crisp, cold melon for dinner, then use the bit of leftover

rind to cook up a quick batch for tomorrow's breakfast.

 

Watermelon rind (white part only; green peel and red pulp removed)

 

Sugar

 

Peeled, sliced ginger root

 

Freshly squeezed lime juice to taste

 

Grate the watermelon rind on a fine grater or in a food processor. Measure the

rind -- and any liquid from it -- and put it in a saucepan. Add an equal amount

of sugar and a couple of slices of ginger root. Place over medium-high heat and

bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring frequently,

until the watermelon rind is tender, about 30 minutes. Remove and discard the

ginger root. Add the lime juice to taste and stir to combine. Serve warm or at

room temperature.

 

Nutritional analysis not available

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Guest guest

I grew up on watermellon pickles. My mom made them every year. She has

alzheimers now, and her good cooking is one of the things I miss the most.

I had been looking for a recipe for them because I don't know any one who

makes pickles anymore.

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Guest guest

---Tamika, Seems to be a Southern thing, although I think we

Northerners are missing out on something there.

Keep me posted. I'd like to know if they turn out as good as your

Mom's.

....and I thought I was onto something new! <grin>

 

P.S. Have they found anything to help with her Alzheimers?

There are supplements you know.

 

JoAnn Guest

angelprincessjo

DietaryTipsForHBP

http://canceranswer.homestead.com/AIM.html

 

In Gettingwell, " Tamika r. Polk " <cecils_mousse@h...> wrote:

> I grew up on watermellon pickles. My mom made them every year.

She has

> alzheimers now, and her good cooking is one of the things I miss

the most.

> I had been looking for a recipe for them because I don't know any

one who

> makes pickles anymore.

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Guest guest

Tamika - there is a book about a man who 'cured' his alzheimers with juicing

I believe - sorry I do not know the name of the book but I will do a bit of

research and see what I can come up with.

 

marianne

 

 

> P.S. Have they found anything to help with her Alzheimers?

> There are supplements you know.

>

 

 

 

 

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