Tulasi

[Guest guest]

Namaskar Narasimhaye,

 

Thank you so much for nice words.

 

The idea of chanting mantras when planting seeds came several

years ago when I read Shiva Svarodaya Tantra , Mahanirvana Tantra and Damaru

Tantra.

Usually I use shiva pancakshara mantra preceded with shiva and

shakti bijas – hrim shrim namah shivaya – which is united power of Lord Shiva

with His shakti Shri Devi. In case with rudraksha seeds I decided to use hrim

namah shivaya as this is the mantra one usually use when wearing rudraksha.

When planting seeds I do acamana, kara and anga nyasa, etc. and chant om namah

shivaya at least 108 times. Then I perform simple puja to Lord Ganapati asking

Him for removing the obstacles. After that I plant the seeds while chanting

hrim shrim namah shivaya and pour some water left from abhishekam of

Shivalingam and yantras. Please note that there is not any shastric evidence

about this (or at least I don't know).

 

Regarding Tulasi:

 

" Of all flowers, Tulasi is the best. She is worshipable and

beautiful, and burns up the fuel of sins like a flame of fire. Of all the

goddesses, she is the most sacred. Because no one can compare to her, she is

called Tulasi. I worship this goddess who is entreated by all. She is placed on

the heads of all, desired by all, and makes the universe holy. She bestows

liberation from this world and devotion to Lord Hari. I worship her. "

(Padma Purana)

 

" Tulasi is auspicious in all respects. Simply by seeing,

simply by touching, simply by remembering, simply by praying to, simply by

bowing before, simply by hearing about, or simply by sowing the tree, there is

always auspiciousness. Anyone who comes in touch with the Tulasi tree in the

above mentioned ways lives eternally in the Vaikuntha world. " (Skanda

Purana).

 

The botanical (latin) name of Tulasi is Ocimum sanctum, (ocimum

means basil and sanctum - holy) – The Holy Basil. Tulasi belongs to a rare

plant family which has what is known as " a perfect flower " , that is

to say, the flower contains both the male and female developments which allows her

to fertilize herself. In other words, there is no such thing as a male Tulasi.

There is two forms of Tulasi – Rama (with white flowers) and Krishna (with

purple flowers). In Himalayas there is another type of Tulasi – Black Tulasi.

 

Currently I don't have a Tulasi plant, but what follows is the

short record of my experience with Tulasi:

 

The most important factor is sunlight!

As I know Tulasi is a perennial in India but is best treated as

a half-hardy annual in Europe as northern European light levels are insufficient

during winter for it to keep growing. Sunlight, and the correct amount of it to

be exact, determines whether plants will flower or not; so if your Tulasi isn't

flowering, try to make some adjustment for more light. Tulasi grown indoors

after 8 or 10 months don't fair as well as those given real sunlight. If indoor

lighting is unavoidable, then fluorescent can be suspended over/around her. The

lights must be special indoor full spectrum plant tubes, not ordinary white

fluorescent tube.

 

Mix and sift 1 part compost, 1 part loam, and 2 parts clean

river sand (unsalted) -  sift into seed flat or peat moss pots and water from

beneath - don't sprinkle them (washes seeds). Sow in moderate heat, 18-20ºC,

during April-May. Cover seed very thinly with sieved compost or vermiculite. If

plants are very well established and growing in a greenhouse, you may be able

to save seed to keep for next year, which may be easier to germinate than

bought seed. Otherwise, remove spent flowers to prolong the life of Tulasi.

(The main reason to loose my Tulasi plant).

 

The first Tulasi sprouts should appear in 6 or 7 days, and will

continue appearing for several weeks. As seedlings are large enough to handle,

pot up until they are in a 30cm pot. If trying outside, plant out in summer in

a sunny open place, perhaps near a south-facing wall. Feed potted plants

fortnightly with a general liquid fertilizer and keep well watered, allowing

plants to dry between watering. Water the Tulasi seedlings thoroughly each

morning, using tepid water bottle. Keep a large pot of tepid water nearby for

refilling the water bottle, as they should be kept nicely moist. If the

seedlings start turning purplish or grayish, then they're getting too much sun

and not enough water. If this happens keep them in shade for a few days till

they recover, else they may wither and die.

 

Important! The seedlings must be put one to a pot as soon as

possible after they have 2 sets of leaves. Beforehand be sure to water the pots

to be transplanted thoroughly. This makes the soil stick more to the roots,

protecting them while transplanting, the idea is to avoid breaking and losing

the seedling's roots, to transplant as quickly as possible because even

momentary root exposure to air and wind is damaging, and to keep as much moist

soil as possible around the roots. After thorough watering, begin by cutting an

1-2 cm or so deep into the peat pot, dividing it into two or more sections,

depending on the number of seedlings. Start sections by cutting, then carefully

pull the sections apart, trying to avoid root breakage and exposure as far as

possible. Immediately plant the sections in the newly prepared peat pots,

pressing down firmly and filling more with moist soil as needed, and water

thoroughly several times. Full shade and increased watering should continue for

3 days, and longer if they wilt. If you do it quickly and carefully, there will

be little or no wilting or drying up.

 

After 3 days of shade and double watering, gradually introduce

them to filtered sunlight and continue caring for them. Continue this program

for 2 or 3 weeks, until they have 3 or 4 sets of leaves. When more leaves have

appeared, you may check periodically to see if any tiny white roots are coming

through the bottoms of the pots. (One of the advantages of peat moss pots,

aside from easy transplant, is that the roots never become cramped, thus

dwarfing the plant. When the pot becomes too small, the roots start growing

right through it. When you begin to see the roots coming through the bottom,

it's time to put the Tulasi plants in their permanent location, either in the

garden or in a large pot.

 

Proper watering has to be adjusted according to weather,

climate, size, soil and the particular nature of the Tulasi. She would rather

be just a little bit dry than too wet, but don't let her soil become hard with

a crust and have her become limp. It is best to water in the morning – around 8

or 9 o'clock – as She uses the water for photosynthesis all day long. Over-watering

causes diseases in the soil, mold, faded and curled leaves, rots the soil, and

causes root diseases. A sign or over watering is when Tulasi turns a pale green

and apparently perfectly healthy leaves drop. She will go limp, if under

watered. Tulasi breathes through the soil and over the process of time the soil

tends to become packed. This causes uneven water absorption and poor

ventilation. The cure is to break up the soil with a fork or a spoon handle.

Dig down about 1,5 – 2 cm, breaking up and turning over the soil in small

clods. This can be done as needed in accordance with the rate it becomes

packed. Be cautious of the roots!

 

I hope this is enough for a beginner. If you/your friend have

additional questions, please don't hesitate to contact me. I'll be glad to help

as much as I can.

 

Yours sincerely,

Ivan

 

P.S. Worship of Tulasi and her mantras is another subject and if

your friend need them I am ready to provide available shlokas, namavalis, etc.

 

---

AUM namaH shivAya shivAya namaH AUM