LORD OF VAIKOM

[Guest guest]

Vaikom is 33 km. south of Ernakulam and 40-km. northwest of Kottayam. It can

be reached by bus or by rail. There is also the inevitable launch for those

fond of cruising on the scenic backwaters (of Vembanad).

 

It is a quiet place, but it is famous for its Siva temple and for this

reason acclaimed as Dakshina Kasi. Its golden tazhikakudam at the pinnacle

beckons you from quite a distance. Life in this little town literally

revolves round the deity. It is endearingly called Lord of Vaikom or

Perumthrikovilappan or simply Vaikatnappan. His name is ever on the lips of

devotees.

Every morning and evening the place comes to life with hundreds of devotees

thronging the shrine with chants of "Namasivaya", "Hara Hara Mahadeva", and

"Shambho Mahadeva." Old people cry: "Hara Shankara Siva Shankara Duritam

Kala (remove all ills) Sivane." The Younger ones pray for a job or for

promotion or for children. The sick ask for health. Parameswara grants

everybody's wishes.

 

Three Aspects

 

The Lord Siva of Vaikom assumes three aspects during the day. In the morning

upto panthrati pooja he is Dakshinamoorti-giver of divine wisdom to all

sages saints. He is the ultimate knowledge in human form-- jnana swaroopa.

Hence worshipping him at this time obtains wisdom and intellect.

 

In the noon upto uccha pooja he is in the for Kirata-hunter fighting with

his greatest warrior de Arjuna to test him if he deserves missile-the

Pasupata astram. This is Propitious for bathing the deity and who want

successes in anything obtain it by worshipping him now.

 

In the evening the Lord is Satchidananda itself ultimate goal of every

devotee' be he an ascetic householder. The Lord is immersed in bliss, Anand,

the embrace of his consort Parvati. Everybody can approach him at this time

and obtain his blessings.

 

 

Annadana Prabhu

 

The life of people here is intimately connected with the deity because he

has been Annadana Prabhu -Giver of food. Till a few years ago the temple

regularly ensured food at least to hundreds of people belonging to the

'upper' castes. Tonnes of rice were cooked and the dishes had a unique

flavor. In the uttupura or feeding shed (a two-storied building, more than

1,000 feet long) attached to the temple, People sat in long row baskets of

steaming rice were emptied on to their plantain leaves. They mixed the rice

with sambhar and pappadams and ate with audible relish. Other caste Hindus

also had their share

On special occasions like the Maharaja's birthday or the Maharani's death

anniversary there were feasts with delicacies made of jackfruit and coconut

milk. The number of courses ran upto hundred on these days.

 

Now, thanks to shortages of foodstuffs, rationing and a general change in

attitudes, feasts are held on a much smaller scale and at longer intervals.

Nevertheless, offering of food or 'prathal' as it is called is still a

favourite vazhivadu to the Lord. As the food offered is considered as

prasad, everyone, from pauper to prince, partakes Nay, the food is even said

to possess curative powers in ailments like stomach-ache, ulcer, etc.

 

There are innumerable instances when sufferer these ailments have got cured

here. In 1965, the pr writer experienced acute pain in the 'pit' of the

stomach particularly when hungry. He always carried biscuit his pocket to

relieve pain at unexpected moments. Gastro intestinal analysis established

Duodenal Ulcer as cause of ailment and the doctor advised surgical

treatment. Meanwhile, along with treatment by drugs, the food offered at

Vaikom was taken. Today seventeen years later there, is no trace of any

ulcer or any other ailment in the stomach.

 

The Big Kitchen

 

What is the secret of the popularity of feasts? Once a Maharaja of

Trivandrum invited all the cooks of Vaikom-- traditionally Muttas

Nambudiris-to cook for a feast at his palace. The ingredients for different

dishes were sup; in exactly the same proportion as at Vaikom. Yet the taste

did not match that which obtained at the temple. An enraged Maharaja

questioned the head cook. The chief's reply was: "No doubt all ingredients

were supplied and the cooks were also the same but there was one thing

missing-the 'big kitchen' of Vaikom temple. The king understood that the

kitchen at Vaikom was blessed by Vaikathappan and sent the cooks away with

valuable presents.

Incidentally, it isthe ashes of this kitchen on the northeast corner of the

nalambalam that is served as Vibhuti to devotees visiting the temple.

 

Even the cutting of vegetables here is an art. It is a task undertaken

hereditarily by a group of sixteen Nair families. Once a member of the royal

family found three or four bunches of big bananas being carried away from

the temple store. Suspecting theft, he called the persons. To his surprise

they were only peels left intact after removing the kernel with dexterity

for making chips. The Raja was pleased at their artistic skill and gave them

gifts.

Once the saint Vilwamangalam came to Vaikom for darshan. He could not find

Bhagawan in the sanctum. He therefore walked around and found him having his

meals on the raised platform on the northern side of the garbhagriha. None

other than Parvati was serving him. This spot is still hold sacred, called

Manyasthanam, where a plantain leaf is laid with all dishes served during

feasts and a lamp lit.

 

It is still believed that Parameswara partakes of the food during the feasts

along with the Brahmins. The devotee is offering prathal circumambulates the

temple. After the feast the chief priest opens the closed sanctum and offers

prasad. This darshan is caned Ananda darshan. So much for the sanctity of

feasts.

 

Vaikom, otherwise quiet place, became an event of considerable social and

religious importance as explained in the Introduction.

 

Origin

 

What are the origin of the deity and the temple Vyaghrapuri Mahatmya of the

Bhargava Purana briefly to the history and divinity of the deity. Khara, an

asura of the Ramayana, attained yogic powers through years of severe

penance. At the instance of 'Malyavan' the preceptor of the Asuras, he

propitiated Lord Nataraja at Chidambaram. Moved by his devotion the God

granted him several boons and also three Sivalingas.

 

Khara took hold of the lingas-one in each hand and the third in his mouth

and journeyed through the sky southward. On the way he was overcome by the

weight of the objects he carried and hence was constrained to descend and

rest for a while. He set the linga in his right hand at a sacred spot,

knee-deep in water. After a while he resumed the journey and tried to remove

the linga but it would not move, try as he may, with all his might.

 

At this juncture, Saint Vyaghrapada appeared on scene. Khara was waiting

exactly for this. He entrusted the linga to the care of the saint and

proceeded to Ettumanur, 25 km away, where he installed the left-hand linga.

The one in the mouth was deposited at Kaduthuruthy midway between the two

places.

 

Thus the three spots-Vaikom, Kaduthuruthy and Ettumanur-were sanctified

simultaneously. It is believed as stated in the previous chapter that darsha

these places on the same day is highly auspicious.

 

Vyaghrapada, a great saint in his owns right worshipped the Shivalinga at

Vaikom with extreme devotion. Thus in due course the place also acquired his

name-'Vyaghrapada puram' or 'Vyaghrapuri' and ultimately Vaikom for short.

 

Legend has it that Siva and Parvati pleased with the devotion of Vyaghrapada

gave darshan to him under a peepal tree to the south of the eastern gateway.

The place is still marked by a young tree with a raised platform where a

lamp is lit daily and special pujas are held. It was in the early hours of

the morning on Ashtami day, in the dark fortnight of the month of Vrischikam

(November December), that Vyaghrapada had the divine vision. This day is

celebrated as part of the annual Ashtami festival, when, to have early

morning darshan of the idol, is considered very auspicious.

 

Associated with Parashurama

 

The installation of the idol and the construction of the temple is

attributed to Parashurama, an incarnation of Vishnu who, as is now well

known, had consecrated several temples sacred to Siva and Vishnu for the

spiritual well being of the people of Kerala. One day while being airborne

northward his eyes chanced upon the beautiful linga at Vaikom, radiating

glory all round. Overwhelmed with joy he descended to the spot and embraced

the linga in knee-deep water.

 

He raised a square platform by heaving up earth and "'tailed the linga on it

according to Sankarshana rites. It is on this square that the present temple

stands. The platform is about 2 feet in height and the linga itself is about

five feet.

 

Parashurama also brought Brahmins for the performance of puja and

established the various rites to enhance the divinity of the idol. It was he

who also arranged for the conduct of the Ashtami festival. It is enjoined

that whoever offers a bilwa leaf or ar coin or a lamp on the is liberated in

this world and the next.

 

Flawlessly Finished

 

This is how Ronal Bernier describes Vaikom to "in a spacious green setting

that is almost empty of diary building the temple appears flawlessly

finished. Temple is elliptical. It is topped with a cone-shaped roof that is

absolutely geometrical, covered with coppar and crowned by a dazzling gold

stupi. The height of tala or wall is barely one-third that of the colossal

And the total effect is one of pure form in space."

 

The linga is decorated with flower garlands and rare jewels including

Trinetras or Siva's three eyes and cents. In the glare of hundreds of oil

lamps that art lit the idol radiates splendor and provides an eye-filling

sight.

 

K. V. Saundara Rajan reveals that the temple at Vaikom is datable to the

Ilth or 12th century was then known as Vaikkarattu-Bhatarakar wooden panel

walls were added in the 15th-16th centuries, and that a second renovation

treated the murals. Retouching of the largely oriented wall paintings has

been extensive and the colors are probably brighter than their original

appearance.

 

To lovers of art these paintings provide a veritable fare, which bring out

all the grace, dignity and spiritual nobility of the figures depicted.

 

The Vaikom temple is a good specimen of indigenous style of

temple-architecture of the sixteenth cant According to Stella Kramisch,

temples of circular P are 'of greater significance and beauty' than those

built on square plan and their origin may be put as the sixth century A.D.

Examples of circular also rare.

 

In front of the garbhagriha is a raised platform or the Mahamandapam, square

in form, where the image of Nandi (Bull) is placed. Beyond it is corridors

or pillared halis all round the sanctum and the Mukhamantapam. The whole

edifice is rectangular in shape and on its exterior has columns of

lamps-vilakkumatam-formed on a wooden framework covered with steel trellis

works.

 

The temple faces east and in front there is a covered known as Anakottil

where the elephants take there in line for the temple procession. The

317-foot-high gold-covered flagstaff is also based here. And beyond it is

the circumambulatory path paved with stones for taking the image of the God

in procession round the temple.

The uttupura or the feeding shed is on the northern side and beyond it is

the temple-tank. The area of the entire temple is nearly eight acres. There

are four gateways-one on each side but they are not imposing like other

temples in the South. There are three or four Majestic peepal trees in the

courtyard, which add to the scenic beauty.

 

Pananchikkal Bhagawati

 

On the southern side of the temple courtyard there is a small shrine for

Goddess Pananchikkal. This is a Vana-Durga exposed to the sun and rain and

as such without any roof. Once there was a Yakshi (demi-goddess of evil

aspect) roaming in the temple premises, harassing humans and animals- the

terrified people approached Vyaghrapada Maharshi for protection. The sage

turned to Stambha Vighneswara on the northeastern side of the temple at the

entrance. (There is another image of Ganaapti inside the temple.)

 

Vighneswara cast a significant glance on Trisuli, of his attendant

Bhootaganas. Trisuli, meaning lite three-pronged dragger, cut the woman into

three pieces. The trunk was thrown on the southern side of the temple where

the shrine stands, the head, at M 4 km. away and the legs at Kuttummel to

the north the temple. From these the respective goddesses arose.

 

The Yakshi in a previous birth had been a Gandharva damsel, by name,

Neelakuntala. Conceited by her personal beauty and charm she once mocked at

Sage Agastya and his disciples returning to their ashram after worshipping

Vaikathappan. The enraged Rishi cursed her as a result of which she became a

Yakshi. She begged forgiveness and was promised liberation at the hands of

Trisuli.

 

Two Tantris

 

The Tantriship (priest well-versed in Tantras science and art of temple

worship) at Vaikom was originally from Menattu illam, near Udayanapuram. 500

years ago when the temple caught fire the Me Tantri at great personal risk

went into the sanctum protected the linga from the enveloping flames. I

process he became unconscious. However when he to he gave up the Tantriship.

 

Ono Mekkattu Nambudiri succeeded him. During his time a strange episode

occurred. There was no male member left in the Puthusseri families who were

the traditional drummers at the temple. There was only a pregnant woman who

found herself in a quandary. The annual festival had already begun during

which utsavabali or offering of oblations to spirits is an important ritual.

Dumming is part of the ceremony which is mostly action and gestures in tune

with certain talas.

The woman approached other Marar families and requested them to take over

the function. But they refused unless they were given permanent rights,

which the woman did not want to part with. She could not sleep that night

and she was tossing on her bed, thinking and worrying. In this state she

heard an incorporeal voice urging her not to worry but go ahead and do the

drumming herself.

 

Thus she took up the position during the utsavabali the next day. But her

drumming was so fast and yet so perfect that the Tantri could not keep pace

with her. Not only that, the percussion was so loud that it aroused the

temple spirits which approached the terrified Tantri with open mouths for

offerings.

 

It was at this juncture the Mattappalli Tantri appeared on the scene. The

hapless Mokkattu Tantri requested him to help and the latter completed the

function successfully. It was thus that Vaikom came to -have the two

Tantris. The Puthusseri family members are still the official drummers.

 

The Ashtami Festival

 

The annual festival of the temple and the most important event of the

year-is Ashtami in the month of Vrischikam as mentioned earlier. It is a

13-day festival, the main event, Ashtami being on the 12th day and arattu or

the holy bath for the eity, on the 13th.

 

In fact, the Vaikom Ashtami is considered so auspicious that it is observed

throughout Kerala with special poojas to Vaikathappan.

 

At the temple on each of the 13 days there are special Programs, poojas and

rites, elephant processions, "public feeding, music, dance and other

entertainment's. Thousands from the neighborhood attend these functions.

 

The celebration reaches its peak on, Ashtami The early morning darshan-the

time when Siva Parvati pave darshan to Vyaghrapada under the peepal tree-the

feast at noon and the procession at night from Udayanapuram are the salient

features.

 

>From the early hours of the day, devotees crowd, the temple chanting holy

names. This is followed by darshan at Udayanapuram about 3 km. to the north

of the Vaikom temple, on the Vaikom-Ernakulam road. The presiding deity here

is Lord Subrahmanya, son of Siva. (The temple is described in chapter 22-A

Round-up.)

 

The main event of the Ashtami occurs at night when the happy meeting between

Vaikathappan and Udayana purathappan and the Lord of Udayanapuram takes

place. It is believed that the son had gone to battle with Asuras and the

meeting is an occasion for the faith greets the triumphant son. The coming

of Udayanapuram deity with Gods and Goddesses of the neighboring temples on

gorgeously caparisoned elephants accompanied by nadaswaram, hundreds of

torches (theevattis) is a spectaculars There are other famous temple

processions in Kerala like the Trichur Pooram and the Arattupuzha Pooram in

w several elephants participate. But the procession Udayanapuram is

singularly grand and hundreds, thousands gather to witness this symbolic

meeting between father and the son.

 

The Celestial Meeting

 

Renowned Nadaswaram Vidwans like Rajaratnam Pillai, Karaikurichi Arunachalam

and Veeraswami Pillai to accompany the procession. They invariably played

Dikshitar's composition- "Shree Subrahmanyaya namaste---namaste.... Manasija

Koti lavanyaya namaste.... in the stillness of night the audience stood

spellbound hearing the melody.

 

The 2 - km. procession from Udayanapuram takes nearly 3 hours to reach the

north gate at Vaikom at about 1.30 A.M. During the period the 300 theevattis

or torches consume nearly 100 tins of oil. All the while, Vaikathappan, the

father, mounted on the elephant, stands impatiently to meet his beloved son.

The meeting takes place at the east nada to the accompaniment of another

moving song in praise of Paramasiva. - Thiruvati sharanam nambi vandhen

devati deva...." The splendor of this divine meeting is to be seen to be

believed. Devotees wipe tears of joy from their eyes and offer kanikkai

(offering of money) to the deities.

 

Thereafter father and son take a round of the temple and then the equally

touching farewell takes place at the northern gate. The rendering of

Khandara or Neelambari ragas lands pathos to the occasion.

 

Koodi Pooja

 

The next day the holy bath ceremony (arattu) takes Place at the tank (arattu

Kulam) about a kilometer from the east nada. For this function also the Lord

of Udayanapuram comes to Vaikom. After the arattu, a Koodi (joint) Pooja

takes place for both father and son in the sanctum. This ritual is again

unique and not seen in any other temple in Kerala. There is no more

auspicious occasion for the devotees than the Koodi puja and naturally they

gather in there thousands, with whole families. Annaprasanam. Thulabharam

and various other vazhivadus also take place at this time. After the

ceremony Vaikathappan also goes to the son's place and has his holy bath

there. There again Koodi Pooja takes place.

 

It is significant that on Ashtami day there is pooja or naivedyam at Vaikom

temple. Vaikathappan himself observes a fast, prays for his son's success

in battle, while feeding thousands -as an act of penance. The feast on

Ashtami day is particularly grand. It i' rule that everybody must be fed

sumptuously on this day.

 

Sahasrakalasam and Sandhya Vela

 

It is well known that Siva is abhishekapriya-lover ablutions. Parashurama,

during his worship of the I here, is believed to have bathed the deity with

Sahasrakalasam or a thousand pots of holy water according Vedic rites. Now

this is a regular form of offering ranging from ordinary people to the

Prince of Travancore.

 

It is a costly offering though, the expenses amounting to nearly Rs.

10,000/-. It is a ten-day function, each day an offering of 101 Kalasam or

pots of holy water being made-100 pots of silver and one of gold at do

centre--all filled with water and surcharged with mantras recited by learned

Brahmins seated on the Mukhamantapam. These are emptied on the deity, the

golden pot- Brahmakalasam-being the last one. There are grand feasts at noon

on all the ton days.

 

Sandhya Vela is another ritual specially conducted* Vaikom particularly

during the 40 days preceding Ashtami. The main ceremony is recital of Vedas

by learned Brahmins sitting on the mandapam. Then there are siveli or

procession in the morning, of course a feast at noon and vilakku (Laksha

deepam) at night.

 

Different parties like the rulers of Travancore and Cochin, various

associations like the Brahmin samooham and neighboring devaswoms like

Ambalapuzha used via with one another in the past in celebrating Sandhya

Vela. Now these have become symbolic and the Devaswom itself under

Government control conducts most of the rituals. The administration of

Vaikom temple was in the hands of 108 Nambudiris, called Uralars (literally,

governing committee of the village.)

 

In course of time most of the families became extinct; there are only three

or four families left now. The reason for the destruction of these families

is that once in the Payasam prepared for a big feast a dead snake was found.

Some of the Nambudiris decided to remove the snake and serve the delicacy to

the devotees. As a result many died of poison. The result was their own

annihilation.

 

Story of Horses

 

Following this incident to prevent any bad effects or poisoning of food the

srikoil which is kept closed during the feast is opened again and Ananda

prasad served to devotees as described earlier.

 

In days of yore the, sea bound the West Side of Vaikom. Now the sea has

receded and we have the backwaters of Vembanad. Ships used to call here,

bringing horses from Arab countries. The Tamil from Pandya Desa ca 'me here

to purchase the animals. The story goes that once the poet-saint of Tamil

Nadu, Manikkavachakar came here to purchase horses on behalf of a Pandya

king. He made his purchases according to the prescribed lakshanas and had

them tethered for the night in the courtyard of the temple. Next morning he

found them all turned into dogs.

 

Obviously the Lord did not approve the idea of keeping the animals inside

the temple without permission. Manikkavachakar, the great devotee that he

was, worshipped the Lord and did penance the next day. He sprinkled the holy

Tirtha obtained from the Chief Priest and lo! the animals became horses

again. The Pandya hearing this made enormous gifts in gold to make amends.

 

One Devata, called "Kavutayan" keeps the nightly vigil of the temple. His

idol now is installed on a maidan outside the temple on the northwest side.

Then t is the story of the famous Vaikom Pachu Moo He was a leper and got

rid of his disease through austere bhajan, which he observed day and night.