Bouncing off to Banavasi

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Bouncing off to Banavasi

 

Chayapathi recreates the grandeur of the Kadambas with his

religiously satisfying trip to Banavasi in Karnataka.

 

http://www.deccanherald.com/deccanherald/sep42005/sundayherald10225720

0592.asp

 

 

It was long time ago, as children, we were taught the famous poet

Pampa's epic work which had a clarion declaration—

"Aarankusavittodam, Nenevudenna Manam Banavasi Desam" which

means "even if someone kills me, my mind will remember Banavasi". As

we embarked on our journey to the place that is the capital of the

kingdom of Kadambas, these words were reverberating in my mind.

 

According to the Talagunda Pillar inscription, the founder of the

Kadamba Kingdom was one Mayurasharma who belonged to an orthodox

Brahmin family. The family was deeply devoted to Vedic studies. The

Kadamba tree that grew near their house gave the family its name.

 

Mayurasharma went to Kanchi to pursue his Vedic studies. In a freak

incident, a quarrel broke out between Mayurasharma and a Pallava

guard. Humiliated, Mayurasharma gave up his studies, to take revenge

on the Pallavas. This is how Mayurasharma transformed in to a

Kshatriya and became an indomitable force under a new name—

Mayuravarma. Unable to take on the mighty power of Mayuravarma, the

Pallava rulers compromised with him. He came to the throne in 350 AD

and ruled Banavasi for about two decades.

 

 

After Mayuravarma, Kangavarma, Baghiratha, Raghu and Kakusthavarma

ruled Banavasi. Under Kakusthavarma, Kadamba Empire reached the

pinnacle of its greatness. The Talagunda and Halmidi inscriptions

hail him as "the ornament" and "formidable warrior" of the Kadamba

Dynasty.

 

After Kakusthavarma, the Kadamba Kingdom at Banavasi was ruled by

Shantivarma, Mrigeshavarma and later Ravivarma who rules for 34

years. The Kadamba Kingdom seems to have weakened later on under the

growing power of the Chalukyas and the Pallavas.

 

Banavasi was a prosperous state with both agricultural products as

well as plenty of sandalwood around. Most of the kings who ruled the

region seemed to have given thrust on art and architecture, equal

respect for all religions and special status for scholars. Huen

Tsang, the great Chinese traveller, who was in India in the 7th

century, visited Banavasi. He has made a special mention of the

sandalwood handicrafts which stands testimony to the skills of

Banavasi people.

 

As we travelled through the country road, full of pits, for once, we

did not think of the problems we were confronting, because the

incessant rains, paddy fields where farmers busy in their

agricultural activities, greeted us keeping us smiling throughout our

Journey. After a few moments, we were moving in the thick jungles

indicating that the destination was indeed nearing.

 

Banavasi is a tiny town on the border of North Karnataka and Shimoga

districts. Nestled deep in the forests of Western Ghats, this temple

town is covered by Varada river on three sides. In its fertile soil,

grows rice, sugarcane, arecanut, spices and pineapple. Banavasi

literally means the "inhabitant of the forest".

 

The only reminder of the Kadamba era is the famous Madhukeshwara

Temple around which the town of Banavasi has grown. Though the place

is far from being a developed tourist centre, we could get the help

of the priest who took us down memory lane. `Madhu' means `honey,'

and since the Shiva Linga is of the colour of honey, the temple is

named Madhukeshwara Temple. Built during the period of Mayuravarma,

this temple is one of the finest examples of architectural marvel of

the Kadambas.

 

With a blend of different styles, Madhukeshwara Temple provides a

real treat to the admirers of architecture. The innermost sanctum

sanctorum is built in a very plain style with minimal carving on the

door and the lintel. The Sankalpa Mantapa, in front, reveals the

influence of the Chalukya style. There is a seven-foot huge Nandi

idol made of a single stone.

 

The dancing hall was added during the Hoysala period and has

exquisite carving on the pillars and the ceiling. This is the spot

where the legendary Natyarani Shantala challenged the famed musician

Allama Prabhu. These diverse forms in different parts of the temple

amply prove that the temple has taken several centuries and

contributions from many dynasties to reach its present shape.

 

Madhukeshwara Temple is surrounded by a number of temples dedicated

to Parvati, Veerabhadra, Narasimha and Srirama. A unique 'Ardha

Ganapathi' which literally portrays vertically-half Lord Ganesha,

symbolises the bachelorhood of Ekadanta standing without the

Ardhangi. Collection of beautiful works of Gods and Goddesses from

all main pilgrim centres of the country are added attractions

here. "If you visit Madhukeshwara Temple, you can feel the

satisfaction of having visited all the important pilgrim centres in

India," were the proud words of the priest.

 

Banavasi is yet to develop as a tourist place. Kadambothsava, a

cultural festival held during December, provides a good platform for

artistes and performers from this part of the country. Shivaratri is

another special occasion to visit this place.

 

FACT FILE

 

*Distance: 374 km from Bangalore

 

*Nearest rail head: Shimoga is 112 km away

 

*Nearest town: Sirsi is 18 km away

 

*ccommodation: No lodging available. Better to stay in Sirsi or Jog.

Jog Falls is a two-hour drive from Banavasi.

 

*pecial time to visit: December, during Kadambothsava and

February/March, during Mahashivarathri.