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Mauna Ala: Sovereign Hawaiian Kingdom Land

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>Bill Maioho

>Kahu/Curator of the Royal Mausoleum at Mauna Ala

>Sovereign Hawaiian Kingdom Land

>

>By Don Chapman

>

>This is the first in a two-part series.

>

> With all that has changed in Hawaii during the

>185 years since Kamehameha the Great ruled these

>islands, one thing remains the same. The family

>of William Kaihe'ekai Mai'oho still serves the

>kings and queens of Hawaii by tending to their

>iwi, their bones.

>

> Mai'oho is the kahu/curator of the Royal

>Mausoleum at Mauna Ala in Nuuanu Valley, where

>rest the iwi of every royal since Kamehameha but

>one. It's a job previously held by his mother,

>grandmother and grandfather, also named

>Kaihe'ekai, and two of his grandfather's

>forebears. His son, another Kaihe'ekai, will one

>day succeed him.

>

> More than just a family name, Kaihe'ekai offers

>the only known clue to one of the great mysteries

>in Hawaiian history - where lie hidden the

>remains of Kamehameha?

>

> The resting place of the great king's iwi is a

>question no less relevant today than it was when

>he died in 1819, as evidenced by the ongoing feud

>over the bones of long-dead ali'i, royalty, on

>the Big Island - should they be left sealed in

>their original burial cave near Kawaihae, which

>had previously been raided, or moved to the

>Bishop Museum? More than 30 groups have declared

>an interest in the debate, including descendants

>of those chiefs, who fear descendants of rival

>chiefs of yore might desecrate the iwi.

>

> This is not an unreasonable concern because, as

>we shall see, ancient Hawaiians made an art form

>of desecration.

>

>

> THERE are few areas where modern Western

>sensibilities bump up harder against traditional

>Hawaiian beliefs and values than on the issue of

>human remains. While bones in the English

>language are plural, a rather impersonal

>collection of calcium deposits that tend to lose

>density as a person ages and to show up at

>Halloween on cartoonish costumes, in Hawaiian iwi

>is singular, defining one connected entity, the

>repository of mana, spiritual energy, what might

>in other cultures be called karma or soul.

>

> So in recent years, Hawaiian iwi have rerouted

>highways, moved the sites of hotels and delayed

>or stopped construction of other projects.

>

> "The iwi are incorruptible," Kaihe'ekai says.

>(In attributing quotes to the man friends call

>Bill, we're using Kaihe'ekai, for he's speaking

>not just on his own behalf but also for the

>ancestors who have carried on a tradition and a

>responsibility since 1819 and for those he hopes

>"will be speaking of these things a thousand

>years from now, whatever that world looks like.")

>

> "It is so much like the Christian way of looking

>at it," he says. "The flesh is weak, but the iwi

>remain in its wholeness and sacredness. There is

>mana attached to the iwi of our ancestors. I

>believe that these iwi continue to sustain us as

>a people."

>

> The Hawaiian dictionary co-authored by Mary

>Kawena Pukui, the great Hawaiian scholar (and

>ohana, family, from Ka'u of Kaihe'ekai's

>grandmother Emily Kekahaloa Namauu Taylor),

>defines iwi simply as bone, and then explains

>"bones of the dead, considered the most cherished

>possession, were hidden."

>

> "From what Mary Kawena has written," Kaihe'ekai

>says, "and what my mom and grandpa said, the iwi

>is the essence of a person. That's why we revere

>and honor sites such as this at Mauna Ala, and

>other heiau in Hawaii, because it holds that

>total mana and essence of our ali'i, contained in

>the iwi.

>

>"All our lifelong works, the iwi become saturated

>with that, and it tends to hold on to that. Not

>only the physical Š the spiritual entity remains.

>The iwi is encased in the mana of the person Š

>But because of the ancestors, we incorporate what

>they did in their lifetime Š In that way, the

>totality of the person remains in the genetics of

>your ancestral line."

>

> In that, Hawaiians were intuitively centuries

>ahead of modern science, which only in recent

>years is finding ways to discern DNA, the

>genetics of our ancestral lines, in human bones.

>

>

>HIS photo is on the cover, but this story is not

>about Bill Kaihe'ekai Mai'oho. "I wish you could

>have done a story on my mom," he says. "She was

>better at this kind of thing. Or my grandpa."

>

> A shy and humble man, he agreed to be

>interviewed by MidWeek largely because his

>friend, musician Palani Vaughnn, suggested the

>story to us after being featured in a recent Old

>Friends column. He agreed, he says, not for

>himself, but for his family, for the royals he

>still serves, to dispel false notions about the

>Royal Mausoleum - such as the one that Mauna Ala

>is closed to the public (not since 1947) - and to

>remind native Hawaiians and all others of the

>peace and power of this remarkable place.

>

> So our story is about the Kaihe'ekai connection.

>It's about the ali'i his family cherish and

>serve. It's about Mauna Ala, a place alive with

>the mana of largely altruistic men and women who

>loved, led and served the people of Hawaii. It's

>about a quiet place nestled between the rush and

>bustle of Pali Highway and Nuuanu Avenue, where

>if you listen, you can hear the whispers of

>kings, queens, high chiefs and chiefesses, and

>feel them walking beside you, just as they once

>walked among their people.

>

> As Kaihe'ekai, a bachelor, says: "I'm never alone here."

>

>

> OUR story is also about the only place in Hawaii

>where neither state nor federal land laws apply.

>These peaceful 3.5 acres are the last surviving

>remnant of the Kingdom of Hawaii.

>

> "Yes, this is it," Kaihe'ekai says.

>

> "And who made it safe in that respect was Queen

>Lili'uokalani and George Wilcox. Although they

>were political rivals and really didn't like each

>other, they worked together - he had the in as

>Hawaii's first delegate to Congress.

>

> "In May 1900 (seven years after the overthrow of

>the native monarchy) when the Organic Act was

>passed by the Congress of the United States,

>creating the Territory of Hawaii, Lili'uokalani

>and Wilcox worked to have Mauna Ala removed from

>the public domain. Which means that federal land

>laws do not apply to the grounds of Mauna Ala,

>nor now state laws. Mauna Ala is the only place

>that flies the Hawaiian flag by itself, honoring

>our ancestral chiefs. By American law, whenever a

>public facility opens, the American flag is

>highest, the state flag second. Here at Mauna Ala

>is proudly displayed only the flag of the nation

>of Hawaii, created by Kamehameha. So it's even

>more intense, even more of a symbol of Mauna

>Ala's separateness and sovereign status. I tell

>people, when you come to Mauna Ala, you enter a

>different world.

>

> "It'############# and overwhelming, this thing,

>for lack of a better word, they created to care

>for us, the Hawaiian people. So Mauna Ala in this

>sense, this separateness again, it is a place of

>refuge. It is where our iwi, the most important

>part of our being, links us through the

>generations, to remember them and their aloha to

>us.

>

> "The example I use for children (on school

>outings), when they built Pali Highway it would

>have been cheaper to come straight down Nuuanu

>Avenue, but because of Mauna Ala they couldn't.

>Oahu and Nuuanu cemeteries could have been moved

>- they've done it at Kawaihao Church to widen

>Queen Street, exhumed and moved iwi, for the

>public good it's called in the law. But because

>of Mauna Ala's removal from the public domain,

>they had to go and blow up Pacific Heights and

>make Pali Highway go down into Bishop Street.

>

>"Mauna Ala is immovable, and Queen Lili'uokalani

>did that for her ancestors, and for the

>Kamehamehas, to keep them secure and sacred, to

>have this inserted into the Organic Act. So only

>the flag of Kamehameha and the nation of Hawaii

>flies here."

>

> Queen Lili'uokalani, perhaps, is winking

>somewhere. Her kingdom was stolen, but she

>preserved a bit of it for all time at Mauna Ala

>by using the laws of the nation that helped steal

>her throne.

>

> And how different would life be in 21st century

>Honolulu if Nuuanu Avenue and not Bishop Street

>were the downtown receptacle of highways from the

>Windward and Leeward sides of Oahu?

>

>

> THE name Kaihe'ekai dates to 1819, when

>Kamehameha the Great understood the end of his

>reign and his life were at hand. There were plans

>to be made, for the infant nation, for the

>afterlife of a king in his 67th year. As

>Kaihe'ekai tells his family story, the names of

>ancient kings and queens and long-ago dates roll

>off his tongue as easily and matter-of-factly as

>you talking about your sister's wedding or your

>cousin's graduation. The oral tradition of old

>Hawaii is alive and well at Mauna Ala.

>

> "My tenure here at Mauna Ala is through family

>genealogy," says Kaihe'ekai, 58, who has been at

>Mauna Ala since age 2, kahu since 1995.

>

> "Two high chiefs, Hoapili and Ho'olulu, were

>chosen by Kamehameha to hide his iwi after his

>passing. Hoapili and Ho'olulu were the sons of

>Kame'eiamoku. On the coat of arms of the nation

>(and today the state) of Hawaii are the royal

>kapu twins, Kame'eiamoku and Kamanawa, uncles of

>Kamehameha the First. They were a generation

>older than Kamehameha. Kamehameha had terrific

>insights into psychology, and Hoapili and

>Ho'olulu were the next generation of chiefs who

>were trusted by Kamehameha. These two high chiefs

>became his very, very trusted chiefs, especially

>Hoapili."

>

> Hoapili was born Ulumaiheihei, but Kamehameha

>gave him the name Hoapili, "attached to the

>bosom," a sign of his trust and aloha. So it was

>that Hoapili, the older brother, and Ho'olulu

>were chosen to hide the iwi of Kamehameha.

>

> "Ho'olulu went to Ahu'ena Heiau in Kailua-Kona

>and retrieved the iwi of Kamehameha, and met

>Hoapili in a canoe," Kaihe'ekai continues. "In

>our family history it talks about these two

>chiefs, along with Keopulani, Kamehameha'######

>sacred wife, and they went into an undersea

>cavern to hide the iwi of Kamehameha, which until

>today still has never been found. (A kapu, taboo,

>remains on the site in perpetuity.)

>

> "Ho'olulu comes back from this responsibility to

>the king, and about a month later he has a son

>born to him, and he names him Kaihe'ekai, after

>the event. (Siblings would also receive names

>commemorating the hiding of the king's iwi.) In

>the literal translation, Kaihe'ekai means

>ocean-octopus-ocean. But in the kauna, or hidden

>meaning, it means the receding waters, like the

>octopus recedes and hides in the puka. They went

>into this undersea cave, came up in a cavern, and

>hid the iwi of Kamehameha.

>

>"So our family has been connected with the caring

>of the Kamehameha family, and now the Kalakaua

>family, since the passing of Kamehameha in May

>1819."

>

> And the secret of the cave's location?

>

>"It went with those three individuals, Keopulani, Hoapili and Ho'olulu."

>

> Today, the modest residence on the grounds of

>Mauna Ala where Kaihe'ekai lives is called Hale O

>Ho'olulu.

>

>

> THE dying king had good reason to fear the

>desecration of his iwi. Kamehameha had done a

>little desecrating in his time.

>

> "There were good chiefs and bad chiefs, and the

>bad ones, whole groups of people rebelled against

>them," Kaihe'ekai says, explaining the finer

>points of the art. "They didn't need the

>leadership of the ali'i to make war. If the chief

>was bad, he was done away with and his iwi were

>made into fish hooks. Or arrow points, and then

>used to shoot rats - they had bows and arrows,

>didn't use them in warfare, but they'd shoots

>rats. And they'd turn around and tell the family,

>oh, look what your grandpa went catch for me -

>desecrating them. Or using the fishing hook made

>of boneŠ in Hawaiian stories, the canoes coming

>in with a big fish, the other family going out,

>they say, 'oh, you're not going catch the big

>fish - look, your grandpa already caught this for

>us, so you can just go back home.'

>

> "Kamehameha, when he was conquering Oahu, the

>high chief Kalanikupule ran away into the

>mountains, but was caught a few weeks later and

>sacrificed in Moanalua Valley. And Kamehameha

>takes his thigh bone and uses it as a kahili (a

>feather-topped symbol of royalty). That kahili

>went into the collection of Queen Emma and is now

>at the Bishop Museum.

>

> "So the iwi had great significance, both good

>and bad, and when you dispel your opponent, when

>you take away their life, you also want to take

>away the family connection, desecrate the family

>so no one will rise up from that family to

>overtake or displace you as a high chief."

>

>

> MAUNA ALA translates literally as fragrant

>mountain. "But when you look at the kauna,"

>Kaihe'ekai says, "mau is to perpetuate, na is

>the, ala is path. And so you perpetuate the path

>of our ancestors, and we speak about them in the

>most sacred way. I am here with them, and I speak

>of them and their families in the most reverent

>way."

>

> Before it became the final resting place of

>every Hawaiian royal since Kamahemahea's iwi were

>hidden in that Big Island sea cavern except one

>(King Lunalilo, interred at Kawaihao Church),

>Mauna Ala was the property of Kamehameha III

>(Kauikeaouli) and Kamehameha IV (Alexander

>Liholiho) and Queen Emma.

>

> "They had lo'i, taro patches, private ones for

>the king and his family," Kaihe'ekai says. "There

>were little puuwai (small streams) along Nuuanu

>Avenue in ancient times. Laura Judd lived across

>the street and writes in her journal of seeing

>the king and queen and their retainers come here

>and create the lo'i patches, and the king's

>horses inside packing down the dirt. And a lot of

>these old pohaku (lava rocks) are pohaku

>Kamehameha the Fourth himself placed here,

>creating the lo'i."

>

> Now so tranquil and quiet, a lovely place for

>prayer or meditation, Mauna Ala was once the

>scene of high-decibel warfare.

>

> When up to 30,000 warriors of Kamehameha

>attacked in his ultimately successful bid to

>unite the Hawaiian islands for the first time

>under one chief, Mauna Ala was the first battle

>encampment of the Oahu chief Kalanikupule.

>

> "This is the first prominent spot in the

>valley," Kaihe'ekai says. "Up on the hill beside

>the Kamehameha crypt, there are ship chains

>wedged into the rock - Kalanikupule had his

>cannons strapped down here at Mauna Ala to repel

>Kamehameha. Oahu warriors, Maui warriors, Hawaii

>warriors, Kauai warriors, their blood was shed

>here, and that lends itself to Mauna Ala'######

>and power.

>

>"The largest encampment, of course, was at (what

>later became) Queen Emma's Summer Palace (a short

>distance up the valley). The road in the back is

>called Puiwa, which means to frighten. The valley

>kind of narrows at that point. And Kamehameha's

>largest cannon, which he called Lopaka, made by

>John Young (one of six white men interred at

>Mauna Ala) and Isaac Davis, reverberated through

>the whole valley, it frightened the Oahu

>warriors, and they fled (up the valley, many

>leaping to their death from the cliffs of the

>Pali)."

>

> Petroglyph carvings along the ancient trail that

>parallels Nuuanu Stream, so close Kapena Falls

>can be heard at night from Mauna Ala, also add to

>the historic specialness of this place. Carvings

>in stone depict warriors with a rainbow curving

>protectively over their heads, the original

>Rainbow Warriors. Then there's the legend of

>Kaupe, ghost dog of Nuuanu, that would bark to

>warn people of the fearsome coming of night

>marchers.

>

> All of it "lends itself to the sacredness of

>Mauna Ala," Kaihe'ekai says. "I truly believe

>that Mauna Ala was chosen for the site of the

>Royal Mausoleum by King Kamehameha the Fourth and

>Queen Emma because of that."

>

>

> HOLD on a second. Did Kaihe'ekai really say "I'm never alone here"?

>

> Yes, he did, and next week we'll get into the

>subject of ghosts and spirits, as well as how

>Kaihe'ekai was "protected" by a debilitating

>illness that kept him bed-ridden from age 14 to

>21, and a poetic conclusion to one of the

>greatest love stories ever told.

>

> ***** ***** ***** *****

>

>This is the second in a two-part series.

>

>A Family Tradition Born in Mystery

>

>

> By DON CHAPMAN

>

> IT DOESN'T always happen this way, but the

>cameras worked just fine when a scene for a John

>Wayne western was filmed at Mauna Ala, the Royal

>Mausoleum, where rest the iwi, bones, of every

>Hawaiian royal since Kamehameha the Great but one.

>

> Maybe the Duke got lucky, or maybe his crew just

>had to learn a lesson, as happened on the more

>recent day an Olelo TV crew came to Mauna Ala in

>Nuuanu Valley. When it was time for lights,

>camera, action, and they started shooting, the

>viewfinder stayed blank, the tape rolled but

>recorded nothing.

>

> "We forgot to ask permission," says Dr. Peggy Oshiro, acupuncturist.

>

> They stopped, in a lingering moment of silence

>asked the spirits of high chiefs and chiefesses

>who reside at Mauna Ala for their blessing.

>

> "When we turned the camera on again," Oshiro

>says, "everything was clear and in focus and the

>tape recorded just fine."

>

> Other kinds of unusual things can happen to

>cameras at Mauna Ala. Things like people the

>photographer didn't see showing up in photos.

>

> William Kaihe'ekai Mai'oho, kahu/curator of the

>Royal Mausoleum, pulls two photographs from his

>desk. The first, taken from near the Kamehameha

>crypt, looks out toward the gilded gate and the

>kamani tree that curls low like a protective

>centurion. In the branches of the tree appears to

>be a male face. It is wearing glasses. It looks a

>lot like the man wearing glasses in the photo

>behind the desk, his grandfather William

>Kaihe'ekai Taylor, kahu here from 1947, the year

>Mauna Ala opened to the public, until '56.

>

> The second photo was taken from the gate looking

>in at the chapel. Near the top, in a circular

>stained-glass window designed by Queen

>Lilu'okalani, appears to be the silhouette of a

>man. A haole man. It looks a lot like Charles

>Bishop, who built the Kamehameha crypt.

>

> That Hollywood film, by the way, was Big Jim

>McClean. In the brief scene shot at Mauna Ala,

>John Wayne is seen walking toward the chapel for

>James Arness' funeral.

>

>

> GHOSTS? Spirits? Funny kine things with cameras? What's going on here?

>

>"Whenever I have a group visiting, especially

>when it's keiki, they ask about ghosts,"

>Kaihe'ekai says. "That's the first thing, 'Do you

>see ghosts?'"

>

> (For readers who missed last week's

>introduction, in attributing quotes to the man

>friends call Bill, we're using Kaihe'ekai, for

>he's speaking not just on his own behalf, but

>also for the ancestors who have carried on a

>tradition and a responsibility since 1819, when

>Kamehameha the Great asked two brothers of high

>chiefly status, his cousins, to hide his bones

>after his death. Shortly after fulfilling that

>obligation, a son was born to one of those

>brothers, Ho'olulu, and he named the boy

>Kaihe'ekai, which hints at the secret location.

>Ever since, the family has served the kings and

>queens of Hawaii by tending to their iwi,

>following the Kamehamehas as the capital moved

>from Kailua-Kona to Lahaina to Honolulu. He's

>been kahu at Mauna Ala since 1995, a job

>previously held by his mother, grandmother and

>grandfather, and two of his grandfather's

>forebears.)

>

> There is a g-word involved, but it's not spooky. Not ghosts, gifts.

>

>"I call them gifts of power, things that are

>given to me by them, that I keep for myself,"

>Kaihe'ekai says. "I won't speak about it, it'####

>treasure, it helps me to do what I do at Mauna

>Ala.

>

> "When the keiki used to ask my mom, 'Oh, Auntie,

>you not scared to live ovah heah?' she'd say,

>'I'm not scared of the ones who have passed, it's

>the live ones who frighten me.'"

>

> Introducing the people of Hawaii, and those from

>other shores, to the historic deeds and graceful

>spirits of native royalty is one of the reasons

>he agreed to be interviewed by MidWeek.

>

> "To let them come feel the presence of our

>ancestors, to be among them - not to be ho'okano,

>shy or embarrassed, or think ghosts, scared, no,"

>he says.

>

> "Because the spirits who are here Š I believe

>Kamehameha, where else would he go in the

>islands? Spiritually, he would travel throughout

>all the islands, but his family is here, his sons

>are here, his favorite wife, where else would he

>come to visit and be? I believe that they are

>here 24/7. They go and they come, or they present

>themselves and they hide themselves again. But it

>is because the chiefs are so powerful (in the

>mana, spiritual energy, infusing their iwi) that

>they still have that awareness. And in that

>awareness, it links to the living.

>

>"My mom called this the piko, the center, the

>source, where you can come and get inspiration by

>meditating, praying, looking at the example of

>their lives and what they did for the Hawaiian

>people."

>

> The presence of royal spirits, he says, "it's an

>ever-present feeling, but it's beyond a feeling Š

>So when people come seeking knowledge about our

>ancestors and the culture, when they leave they

>can go out and talk to people, perpetuate the way

>of life of our ancestors - the word has gone out.

>And they'll remember how they felt, just

>chickenskin throughout their time here at Mauna

>Ala.

>

> "So it is a powerful thing to be among them and

>to help give the knowledge of our culture."

>

> In researching this story, the author made five

>visits to Mauna Ala, plus a couple of slow

>drive-bys, and there's definitely something going

>on. Something chickenskin and more. And in a very

>positive way, if you come respectfully and

>quietly. It's because, Kaihe'ekai says, these

>Hawaiian royals were largely altruistic, and

>their spirits remain so.

>

> "In life they set the policy for the culture,"

>he says. "In that sharing, in that always giving,

>in that always supporting the people, they knew

>they would get support from the people they

>supported. It was a give and take that was almost

>equal Š There was a stewardship, and it continued

>from the ancient time down to the modern era."

>

> Ghosts, spirits, whatever Š "I'm never alone here," Kaihe'ekai says.

>

>

> SPIRITS must have been out and about on the

>night of Oct. 30, 1865, when King Kamehameha V

>(Lot Kapuaiwa) in formal procession brought 18

>members of the Kamehameha family to Mauna Ala

>from the original royal mausoleum on the grounds

>of Iolani Palace.

>

> "The king is on foot and leads the procession,

>using all the rituals of the Kamehameha family,"

>Kaihe'ekai says, "their feathered kahili, their

>puloulou, symbols of the high chiefs. And they

>lay wreaths and pili grass all along King Street

>and Nuuanu Avenue and onto the grounds of Mauna

>Ala."

>

> Thus, the first public arrival of chiefly iwi at

>Mauna Ala. Others, on other nights, had secretly

>preceded them. More on that momentarily.

>

> That first royal mausoleum was built in 1825 on

>the diamondhead-makai side of the palace grounds

>to hold the iwi of Kamehameha II (Liholiho) and

>his Queen Kamamalu, who in London contracted the

>measles and died in July 1824.

>

> "England's King George IV had them placed in

>beautiful mahogany caskets with silver shields in

>which were etched names and birth and death

>dates," Kaihe'ekai recounts. "He chose Lord

>Byron, cousin of the poet, to escort the king and

>queen home on HMS Blonde."

>

> Until Kamehameha I, the iwi of all royals were

>secreted, sometimes in caves on sheer lava

>cliffs. The kauna, hidden meaning, of Kaihe'ekai

>hints that Kamehameha's iwi were placed in an

>undersea cavern - probably in ka'ai, sennet

>cordage woven around the bones, "so you can make

>out the upper torso of the human form,"

>Kaihe'ekai says. Mother of pearl was often inlaid

>for the eyes.

>

> Seeing the British caskets changed the way

>Hawaiian royalty would choose to be buried. So

>was built the first mausoleum, a small

>cottage-like structure of coral blocks and adobe.

>You can see where it was - a plaque and a small

>mound surrounded by a hedge of ti and a small

>fence.

>

> That structure was already full by the time

>Prince Albert, son of King Kamehameha IV

>(Alexander Liholiho) and Queen Emma, died at the

>age of 4 in August 1862.

>

>"Mauna Ala was conceived in the hearts of King

>Kamehameha IV and Queen Emma after the passing of

>their son, Ka Haku O Hawaii," Kaihe'ekai says.

>"So they chose to turn the royal lo'i (taro

>ponds) at Mauna Ala into the Royal Mausoleum."

>

> They hired Theodore Heuk, a German, to build it

>in the shape of the Roman/Greek cross, each side

>equal in length, in Gothic style. Today it is a

>koa-lined chapel used for celebrations on the

>birthdays of the royals of Mauna Ala.

>

> As that building, too, began to fill, three crypts were built.

>

> "Charles Bishop had the Kamehameha crypt built

>after Princess Pauahi died in 1884," Kaihe'ekai

>says. "With the passing of Queen Emma in 1885,

>there were no more Kamehamehas directly linked to

>the throne of Hawaii. On Nov. 9, 1887, the iwi of

>all Kamehamehas except the first were moved in

>another nighttime ceremony.

>

> "After Charles Bishop's death in San Francisco

>in 1915 (he'd left Hawaii shortly after the

>overthrow of the native monarchy in 1893), his

>ashes were returned to Hawaii. Prince Kuhio

>carried his urn into the crypt, placed it on the

>casket of his wife, Princess Pauahi, and the

>vault was forever sealed."

>

> Theirs is one of the greatest love stories ever

>told - the childless inter-racial couple who

>established a trust for the education of Hawaiian

>children, who created the Bishop Museum to bring

>preservation and serious scientific study to a

>Hawaiian culture and history they saw being

>overwhelmed by foreign influences - and there is

>something wonderfully poetic in this conclusion

>to their noble romance.

>

> Royal palms roughly trace the parameters of the

>Kamehameha crypt, but because many of Charles

>Bishop's papers were lost in the great San

>Francisco earthquake of 1906, it is a mystery

>where each inhabitant is located. Consider it,

>Kaihe'ekai says, the final Kamehameha kapu,

>taboo.

>

>

> A TIDBIT related to nothing else, and to

>everything: When infestations of white flies

>began to whitewash entire neighborhoods on Oahu

>in the 1980s, it was discovered that their only

>known natural predator is the black ladybug.

>Turned out Mauna Ala was black ladybug central,

>one of the rare places they flourished. Boy

>Scouts from Kamehameha Schools collected the

>little bugs and gave them to neighborhoods

>hardest hit.

>

>

> AMONG other good deeds performed by Princess

>Pauahi and Charles Bishop was to hanai,

>unofficially adopt, the orphaned and abandoned

>William Kaihe'ekai Taylor.

>

> "My grandpa was born in 1882, and when his mom

>died when he was 5 he was hanai'd to the

>Bishops," Kaihe'ekai says. "They had wanted to

>adopt, but my great-grandmother didn't want that.

>There were symbolic kapus attached to Princess

>Pauahi (children she'd formally adopted sadly

>died young), but they became my grandfather's

>godparents and stood at his baptism. So when my

>great-grandma passes away at the age of 28, her

>husband moves to California and leaves the kids.

>Four girls live at St. Andrew's Priory, Grandpa

>was raised with the help of Mr. Bishop."

>

> When Charles Bishop fulfilled his late wife's

>wish to establish the Kamehameha Schools, "Mr.

>Bishop walked him onto campus and he became the

>first student admitted at Kamehameha, in October

>1887 Š Later, Mr. Bishop helps my grandfather get

>his position with the Dillingham family. He was a

>railroad engineer with the OR&L, and served the

>Dillinghams his whole life Š When he got throat

>cancer, Walter Dillingham paid for the medical

>bills."

>

> William Kaihe'ekai Taylor, who for reasons

>unknown would graduate from Iolani, was a member

>of the early Kamehameha Lodge. Because he was

>descended from the non-ruling side of King

>Lunalilo's family, he was a trustee of the

>Lunalilo Estate. At Lunalilo Home, the

>Dillinghams named the elevator for him, where his

>picture still hangs. And though he could have

>been interred at Mauna Ala, his iwi rest at

>Kawaiahao Church with Lunalilo, the people's king.

>

>"He had this essence about him," Kaihe'ekai says

>of his namesake. "He had this relationship with

>people - an amazing man. I adored him."

>

> When he passed in 1956, his wife Emily Kekahaloa

>Namau'u Taylor of Ka'u lineage succeeded him. She

>was a genealogist, fluent in Hawaiian, and wrote

>several songs, including Kuu Lei Awapuhi, written

>for the Jeff Chandler film Bird of Paradise and

>later recorded by Hapa.

>

>"My grandparents put a lot of themselves into me.

>They had this aloha and I was the receiver. This

>treasure that is our tradition Š they really

>imbued me with it."

>

> His grandmother stayed as kahu until 1961, retiring to Lunalilo Home.

>

> At this point the family line at Mauna Ala is

>briefly broken. Iolani Luahine, the legendary

>kumu hula, she of the illuminated eyes who would

>fall into a trance while dancing, served at Mauna

>Ala until 1965, then moved to become kahu at

>Hulihe'e Palace in Hilo.

>

>

> FATE, or something like it, brought the family

>of Kaihe'ekai back to Mauna Ala.

>

>"We didn't take the newspaper," he says, "so one

>of my mom's friends calls her, there's an article

>about the position opening up."

>

> Chief, so to speak, among qualifications was genealogy.

>

> "They required a letter, and three people

>interviewed the finalists - Liliu'okalani

>Kawananakoa Morris, Prince David Kawananakoa's

>daughter from Princess Abigail, Monsignor

>Kekumanu and a public works official. When

>Liliu'okalani Morris saw my mom's genealogy, she

>said that's it."

>

> On Jan. 3, 1966, Lydia Namahana Taylor Mai'oho

>was named kahu. Known to everyone as Auntie

>Namahana, she would serve 28 years, the longest

>tenure at Mauna Ala. She is legendary and beloved

>as much for her knowledge of the old ways as for

>her strong personality and sense of humor. "I

>wish you could have interviewed her," Kaihe'ekai

>says. "She was a great lady."

>

> When she retired in December 1994, Gov. John

>Waihee appointed her son to continue the

>tradition.

>

>

> DOWN a steep set of stairs, through an ornate

>gate opened with a solid brass key that weighs at

>least five pounds, is the white-marbled Kalakaua

>crypt, which opened in 1910. To stand in its

>center, to see in gold the names of King

>Kalakaua, his Queen Kapiolani, his sister Queen

>Liliu'okalani, his sister Princess Likelike, his

>niece Princess Kaiulani, Prince Jonah Kuhio

>Kalanianaole and several of the Kawananakoa, and

>two ancient chiefs, to feel the mana gathered

>there, is both humbling and uplifting.

>

> David Kalakaua Kawana-nakoa died in 1953 and

>filled the last space, the end of royalty as it

>was known in Hawaii for roughly 1,500 years.

>

> Liliu'okalani, who suffered the overthrow of her

>kingdom by local sugar planters and businessmen,

>with American blue coats conveniently bivouacked

>nearby, conceived the idea of a separate Kalakaua

>crypt, and as she planned it, says Kaihe'ekai,

>"Her mana'o (intent or mind) was to convert the

>mausoleum into a chapel so the Hawaiian people

>can gather and celebrate the birthdays of our

>kings and queens and high chiefs and high

>chiefesses and their legacy of aloha to the

>Hawaiian people."

>

> It is not open for weddings, baby luau or graduation parties.

>

> Other landmarks at Mauna Ala include the Wyllie

>crypt. "Robert C. Wyllie, originally from

>Scotland, came to Hawaii in 1840 and served the

>Kamehameha dynasty for over 20 years," Kaihe'ekai

>says. "He was the foreign minister of Hawaii and

>helped Hawaii become recognized as an independent

>nation among the other nations of the world. For

>his 20 years of loyal and dedicated service to

>the nation and to the Kamehameha family, he was

>given the honor of being the third person placed

>inside the mausoleum. In 1904, friends of the

>Kamehamehas built what is now known as the Wyllie

>crypt. In it are members of Queen Emma's family -

>her mama, her hanai parents, her mother's

>sisters, they raised Queen Emma, and John Young

>II."

>

> At the rear of the property is John Young the

>elder's grave. "John Young and Isaac Davis, the

>two kane kea, the two white men, helped

>Kamehameha create the nation of Hawaii,"

>Kaihe'ekai says.

>

> "John Young with his second marriage marries

>into the Kamehameha family, the daughter of

>Kealiimaikai, younger brother of Kameha-meha, and

>John Young and Kaoena become the grandparents of

>Queen Emma."

>

> The queen planted the centurion-like kamani tree

>that swoops low over the entrance gate and the

>two tall kamani at her grandfather's grave.

>

>

> WHEN it'########### to Kaihe'ekai that he could

>have been born to an island ohana like the

>Beamers, known for their music, or the Guilds,

>known for their canoes, or a family of butchers,

>bakers or ukulele makers, he smiles, nods, seems

>on the verge of a tear. Admirable, all of those,

>butŠ

>

>"I feel so blessed," he says. "I came here for

>the first time at 2, and the spirits fell in love

>with me, and I fell in love with them."

>

> Even seven years bedridden in what should have

>been the most active years of life seem now, from

>the vantage of Mauna Ala, a blessing. "The way I

>look at it, I was on my way to juvenile

>delinquency when I took ill," he says.

>

> In the summer of 1959, at age 14, he contracted

>pleurisy around the lungs. At the old Kaiser

>hospital in Waikiki, first he caught pneumonia,

>then a staph infection. Then osteomylitis grabbed

>hold of his right hip and ate away at the head of

>the femur and the socket. Joint-replacement

>surgery wasn't then what it is now. The result

>was "a lot of operations Š It was a very

>disheartening time for me. I wanted to go to

>Kamehameha and play football, my uncles had gone

>there." He's a big guy, looks like he'd have made

>a rattle-your-teeth linebacker, but as a result

>of osteomylitis never suited up and walks with a

>limp.

>

> "It was in that time my mom was taking me around

>to various kahuna lapa'au, Hawaiian healers, and

>ministersŠ Because Hawaiians, if you got ill

>there was a process to it, not only in the sense

>of being cursed, but maybe there was something

>the family wasn't doing right, or the person. So

>she was making this search, along with me. They

>told my mother that my grandfather was protecting

>me. My mom asked, from what? Just protecting him.

>There was no other explanation, just the word

>protection. I've always felt, the family name

>(Kaihe'ekai) kept me apart from total

>socialization, it removed meŠ And through the

>world of spirits and my ancestors, through my

>grandfather, it kept me away from this world. It

>put me in another place, in another realmŠ I feel

>a certain grace."

>

> He'd always enjoyed hanging around the grownups

>as a child, quickly learning that once he

>"started to hanuhinu them, make trouble, get

>antsy, they would take you and place you in your

>room. If you're able to be behave yourself again,

>you can come out. So I was able to listen to the

>kupuna (elders), listen to my grandparents talk

>to different people who came."

>

> He continued listening in the years he lay in

>bed. Today, the names of ancient kings and queens

>and long-ago dates roll off his tongue as easily

>and matter-of-factly as you talking about your

>sister's wedding or your cousin's graduation. The

>oral tradition of old Hawaii is alive and well at

>Mauna Ala.

>

> "I believe it is genetic, in the oral tradition," he says.

>

>

> MAUNA ALA's aforementioned mystery iwi were

>discovered by shocked workers when overdue

>restoration of the chapel began in 1976.

>

> "Trenches were dug along walls, inside and

>outside, three feet wide, six to eight feet deep,

>reinforcing steel and cement to shore up the

>building," Kaihe'ekai says.

>

>"And they find the remains of 19 individuals

>wrapped in kapa (fabric pounded from coconut

>bark). People on the inside, their heads faced

>out. People on the outside, their heads faced in

>towards the building. Artifacts found with them

>proclaimed their high lineage Š We don't know how

>many more burials there might be in the middle of

>the building Š In talking with my mom and other

>kupuna, because Kamehameha V was known as the

>last chief of the olden type, comparable to his

>grandpa Kamehameha the Great, we think he placed

>those individuals around the building to

>spiritually protect his family inside the

>building. It's just amazing, mysterious."

>

> After renovation was complete, the mystery bones

>and artifacts were returned to where they were

>found.

>

> The iwi of those ancient chiefs will continue

>their eternal guard when this Kaihe'ekai's son,

>Bill, also named Kaihe'ekai, 30, a cook at

>Michel's and an avid skateboarder, hands the

>family responsibilities to the as-yet unborn, but

>hoped and prayed for next generation of

>Kaihe'ekai. Thus will continue the tradition that

>began on that mysterious night in 1819.

>

> May it always.

>

> The Royal Mausoleum is located at 2261 Nuuanu

>Ave. It is open to the public 8 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.

>Monday through Friday, closed on weekends and

>holidays, except those honoring Hawaiian royalty,

>such as the upcoming Kamehameha Day (June 11). To

>schedule a visit, call 587-2590.

>

>

>

>

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